On it's way to me.
1991 Black on Tan, bought off market thank god.
1991 Black on Tan, bought off market thank god.
Diablo MLA12195
5 reading
Sledge4.2
461 - 480 of 1,096 Posts
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7,093 Posts
That boat is ready to set sail! Nice
Joined
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7,093 Posts
It even has a luggage rack for grandma!
Geno, that has got to be a riot seeing that thing roll down the highway! You need to paint giant flames down the side and turn it all black and put a giant tail on the rear with huge dragstrip tires. 😎
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3,959 Posts
Yes. All four corner spring and struts replaced with airbag and shocks. Two compressor pumps, a 10 gallon airtank, and valves with electronic controls, all stuffed in the spare tire well.
you can control ride height from a console in the car (four corners adustable separately, or with pre-sets). You can also control it from a smart phone.
![Image]()
![Image]()
you can control ride height from a console in the car (four corners adustable separately, or with pre-sets). You can also control it from a smart phone.
I hope you have a license plate bracket that says “my other car is a Lamborghini!”
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7,093 Posts
Make sure you get that ceramic coated or get xpel on it. Wouldn’t want to damage the patina.
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3,959 Posts
I have been having a tough time getting the motor running well after putting it back together.
When I got the car it idled super smoothly, so I assumed they shouldn’t be touched. When I put the engine back together it ran like crap, and I was trying to read the manifold pressure from the console SMAP but the reading was bouncing all around. Also the top end was rattling around. I spent time reading Seth’s post on syncing and had a few phone calls with him (thank you @SPGlass), and when I stuck a syncrometer (air flow meter) on the lower butterflies and 1-6 was reading twice that of 7-12.
This is with the long bars detached and air bypass screws closed. Also the RPM’s were so low it wouldn’t idle after the aux air valves closed.
Using just the airflow meter and “sound” I got the car idling ok by adjusting the lower butterflies, which had to be backed way out from the setting when I got the car. Someone apparently synced just using the long bars and the air by-pass screws, which could work in theory as long as the upper butterflies are matched. Wrong way to do it, but you could do it that way. And for anyone really paying attention to this topic, in @mikael82 thread on syncing, he suggest to set idle at 1000 by using the long bars, not just the lower butterflies….which might be easier, as its get damn hot down there adjusting the lower butterflies. Maybe best to get them close using lowers, then use the long bars to fine balance at idle…
Once balanced, I put a manometer teed into the fuel vacuum lines, had the airflow meter handy, and I attached the console. Three-way match.
I was able to make the car run really well by using the manometer and the airflow meter together (both showing sync) – but the console reading was off bank-to-bank. When I adjusted the flow so the console (SMAP reading) matched bank-to-bank, it didn’t run as well, and both the manometer and airflow meter were not in balance bank-to-bank.
So, I remeasured the absolute air pressure sensors on each bank – its measured by reading voltage at the LIE (back-probing pins 1 and 15) and reading the voltage at various pressures applied to the sensor. There was about 20% difference between the two sensors, and they were both slightly off specifications in the diagnostic procedure. This must be related to the difference in readings on the console showing different when synced perfectly with the manometer. I wonder if it matters if the banks are synced perfectly by the manometer but the console (LIE) is reading two different values?
And by the way, I was doing all this and having to stop a dozen time to bleed the radiators. PITA on the early cars. I did it all with the little bolts on the top of fixed aluminim lines. Good news on that front, all bleed, running cool, and fans coming on when they should.
- I found a bad coil amplifier on 1-6 (replaced both)
- After having solved that I found a bad water temperature sensor (replaced both)
When I got the car it idled super smoothly, so I assumed they shouldn’t be touched. When I put the engine back together it ran like crap, and I was trying to read the manifold pressure from the console SMAP but the reading was bouncing all around. Also the top end was rattling around. I spent time reading Seth’s post on syncing and had a few phone calls with him (thank you @SPGlass), and when I stuck a syncrometer (air flow meter) on the lower butterflies and 1-6 was reading twice that of 7-12.
This is with the long bars detached and air bypass screws closed. Also the RPM’s were so low it wouldn’t idle after the aux air valves closed.
Using just the airflow meter and “sound” I got the car idling ok by adjusting the lower butterflies, which had to be backed way out from the setting when I got the car. Someone apparently synced just using the long bars and the air by-pass screws, which could work in theory as long as the upper butterflies are matched. Wrong way to do it, but you could do it that way. And for anyone really paying attention to this topic, in @mikael82 thread on syncing, he suggest to set idle at 1000 by using the long bars, not just the lower butterflies….which might be easier, as its get damn hot down there adjusting the lower butterflies. Maybe best to get them close using lowers, then use the long bars to fine balance at idle…
Once balanced, I put a manometer teed into the fuel vacuum lines, had the airflow meter handy, and I attached the console. Three-way match.
I was able to make the car run really well by using the manometer and the airflow meter together (both showing sync) – but the console reading was off bank-to-bank. When I adjusted the flow so the console (SMAP reading) matched bank-to-bank, it didn’t run as well, and both the manometer and airflow meter were not in balance bank-to-bank.
So, I remeasured the absolute air pressure sensors on each bank – its measured by reading voltage at the LIE (back-probing pins 1 and 15) and reading the voltage at various pressures applied to the sensor. There was about 20% difference between the two sensors, and they were both slightly off specifications in the diagnostic procedure. This must be related to the difference in readings on the console showing different when synced perfectly with the manometer. I wonder if it matters if the banks are synced perfectly by the manometer but the console (LIE) is reading two different values?
And by the way, I was doing all this and having to stop a dozen time to bleed the radiators. PITA on the early cars. I did it all with the little bolts on the top of fixed aluminim lines. Good news on that front, all bleed, running cool, and fans coming on when they should.
Geno, you never cease to amaze! Good luck on getting that beast all dialed in as I know you will. It will all be worth it very soon!
It's great to hear you're making some progress with it Geno! I'm always happy to help. You said it idles super smoothly, does it also rev smoothly too? Did you test your MAP sensors? Maybe try swapping them and see if the values swap. Are the bypass screw set about equally?
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