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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2019, 03:15 PM
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Does anyone know what relays #2 .....#5.....and #6 are for? And while I am asking what are the fuse #'s that are associated with the headlights?
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2019, 07:42 PM
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There is an easy to test to see if it is the motor or the relay. Unplug the good side and run 4 jumper wires over to the bad side. If the motor operates when turned on then it is a bad relay. If not then it is a bad motor. The relay panels on Jalpas have no retainer clips in the panel to keep the wires from pushing out. It is very very common for wires to come loose off the back of the relays. You have to take the screws loose holding the panel in place and inspect the back. You may find burned wires, loose connections etc. This is a very weak point in the Jalpa electrical system. Some people epoxy the connections in place so they will not push out. You have to be real careful doing this so you don't coat the connector in epoxy. you need to put some kind of putty down the hole first to keep epoxy off the terminals. If the motor works, pull the relay and test it with an ohmmeter. Run power across the coil and see if it switches. Look on the face or side of the relay for the diagram on how it functions. All relays are not alike. They function differently so don't just go buy a generic one at the auto parts store. You must look at the diagram on the relay and match up or order the same relay to the one you are replacing. Many auto parts clerks don't know crap about auto electric and will tell you "this will work fine" Most are wrong and you will end up with burnt fuses, wires or worse. Do the crossover test first with the jumper wires. Then if motor is good proceed to the relay panel. I cant remember how many relays but it seems like more than 1. I think one sends power to the headlight circuit and the other to the headlight motors. Let me know the results and I will try to help.PS there is a wiring diagram for the Jalpa on the Jalpa page. Do not trust it as it is only a general guide. There were lots of variations over the years. I blew one up to poster size and tried to verify it all but finally gave up on the project. Mine is an 83 #12071 and had a whole lot of differences. Lee
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1983 Jalpa DLA 12071
1978 Ferrari 308 GT4 (sold )
2017 Mercedes Sprinter 4x4 Custom Conversion
2014 Ford Raptor
2009 H2 Luxury
2001 Hummer H1 Wagon (sold)
2006 Hummer SUT
2005 Hummer SUV
2016 KTM 150SX

Last edited by Lee T; 08-21-2019 at 07:47 PM.
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 08-23-2019, 05:04 PM
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Did the easy test. I disconnected the passenger side 4 pole connector, hooked up the drivers side motor, and the motor activated and continuously ran, did not stop, so I have a motor problem.
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 08-23-2019, 07:40 PM
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Was the motor still in its assembly or not? If the motor is out it will run without stopping. Part of the mechanism where the motor mounts tells it when to stop.
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1983 Jalpa DLA 12071
1978 Ferrari 308 GT4 (sold )
2017 Mercedes Sprinter 4x4 Custom Conversion
2014 Ford Raptor
2009 H2 Luxury
2001 Hummer H1 Wagon (sold)
2006 Hummer SUT
2005 Hummer SUV
2016 KTM 150SX

Last edited by Lee T; 08-23-2019 at 07:44 PM.
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Old 08-24-2019, 05:42 AM
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The motor control circuit has limit switches...you need to be very careful with these, or the headlights become erratic.

I am surprised that the system came apart...usually the steel drive rod freezes and is a giant pain to disassemble without damaging the housing and body-work

Paul
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2019, 10:52 AM
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Answer for Lee....the motor was taken out of the car, of course the connecting arm to the headlight bucket is off, but the rest of the motor is assembled. So that is how I just connected the motor with the factory 4 pole connector to the good operating side of the car, and the motor just spins.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-24-2019, 10:55 AM
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Answer for Preo.....what do you mean by limit switches? Steel drive rod? is that the splined metal that connects to the headlight bucket?
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 08-25-2019, 07:09 AM
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Adjusting the “Pod” position:

When the Pod is parked in the pod down position, the pushrod should line up dead straight over the crank and motor axle. When it's parked in the open position, the pushrod should be in a straight line with the crank, but extended out.

If it's parking in the wrong spot, you need to adjust the crank on its splined shaft - don't touch anything else on the motors or relays.

Once you have the crank on correctly, you can adjust the pushrod so the pod sits flush in the closed position. It's easiest to do this with the headlight removed.

The motors run in just one direction. To test the motor itself, apply 12 V to terminal 1 and earth the black (earth) wire.

The principle of these motors is similar to windscreen wipers, where there is a cam operated switch (limit switch) provided so that the motor always parks in the same place. The headlight pod system is made more complex by the need for these motors to park in two places.

There should be just three relays controlling the motors. One provides overall control to the running and correct parking of the motors, the other two relays are just slaves to relieve the parking switches of the motor current.

Paul
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2019, 12:53 PM
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Where is terminal 1 ? So you are saying motor has to be mounted and hooked to the headlight pod to test? I am confused? When the headlight pod is fully open and I hook up the motor and the linkage for the pod the linkage has to be fully extended and in line with the crank. But when I mount the motor there is no reference for the inner wheel to be set in a specific position that is for the open pod. Seems to me it must be timed? If it is out of time is that why it will not operate properly? The diods have been tested and both test ok, done by 2 different people. Is there no way to bench test this motor?
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