I had a '94 VT, so, some of this might be relevant:
* If car has original tires, replace them, my original (Pirelli) rear tires were defective, both tires, at the same time (about 6,000 miles on the tires) started separating (the rear tires are actually two tires molded together) which were replaced under warranty.
* The wires in the engine bay leading to the "computer distribution" point (between cabin and engine, behind driver) were "all melting together" after a run through the Arizona/California desert (not that hot, about 105F) and each had to be completely re-run, by hand...the result of this melting together were electrical "snap crackle and pop" and one of the tell-tale signs were the fuelpumps would not come on and prime the engine when you turn the key in the ignition.
* The rotor in the distributor broke...net result, only 2 of the cylinders "were hitting" so, of course, the car did not go as 2 cylinders cannot move the whole motor - so, make sure the distributor has been updated.
* Make sure the oil lines (between cooler and block) are properly installed, mine were not and blew out (block side) and dumped all the oil in 2 seconds flat! This was at 9,000 miles or so.
* My catalytic converters "starting melting" (I never did any engine mods to the car at all) around 8,000 miles, those were fixed under warranty.
* I updated my A/C thermostat with a "matching" Mercedes-Benz component that help the A/C run cooler (car was black/black).
* Standard stuff like put the car on a lift and check it out top-to-bottom, check clutch for wear, and so on...
Hope this helps
John
* If car has original tires, replace them, my original (Pirelli) rear tires were defective, both tires, at the same time (about 6,000 miles on the tires) started separating (the rear tires are actually two tires molded together) which were replaced under warranty.
* The wires in the engine bay leading to the "computer distribution" point (between cabin and engine, behind driver) were "all melting together" after a run through the Arizona/California desert (not that hot, about 105F) and each had to be completely re-run, by hand...the result of this melting together were electrical "snap crackle and pop" and one of the tell-tale signs were the fuelpumps would not come on and prime the engine when you turn the key in the ignition.
* The rotor in the distributor broke...net result, only 2 of the cylinders "were hitting" so, of course, the car did not go as 2 cylinders cannot move the whole motor - so, make sure the distributor has been updated.
* Make sure the oil lines (between cooler and block) are properly installed, mine were not and blew out (block side) and dumped all the oil in 2 seconds flat! This was at 9,000 miles or so.
* My catalytic converters "starting melting" (I never did any engine mods to the car at all) around 8,000 miles, those were fixed under warranty.
* I updated my A/C thermostat with a "matching" Mercedes-Benz component that help the A/C run cooler (car was black/black).
* Standard stuff like put the car on a lift and check it out top-to-bottom, check clutch for wear, and so on...
Hope this helps
John
