Lamborghini Talk banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone, my water pump drive shaft broke on the weekend. Got it home safely.

My question is, before I take the pump off so I can get parts on the way ASAP, do I need a new waterpump, or just a coupling piece? As you can see from my very artistic annotated photo below the portion marked in red from the engine turns, the portion marked in orange does not. Just wasn't sure if the portion in orange is a fixed part of the waterpump, in which case I will order a new one immediately.

Thank you!


299278
 

·
Registered
2011 LP560-4 Spyder / Blu Fontus
Joined
·
563 Posts
I'm sorry I can't help with that one, but it is a very beautifully descriptive photo (and I'm not being sarcastic either, just that some 'I need help' posts are too vague). I'm sure you will have an answer shortly and hopefully back up and running again soon ❗
 
  • Like
Reactions: aCiD

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! I've spent most of my entire life on forums and helping people with similar issues, so it's important to be super clear. Also check out my build thread on my car in my post history, unfortunately I haven't finished all the updates in it yet, lots of useful photos in there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Based on the photos I've seen of the water pump, your culprit is either gears are chewed up on the pump side or the coupling, which is a different part number than the shaft which I'm sure you're aware of already.

Hope this helps, I would disassemble first.
You will not know until you disassemble.
299279
299280
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Crap, ok. That's kinda what I was afraid of. I will pull it out tonight to identify which and report back.

Thank you for the photos too!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
210 Posts
It looks like the water pump shaft is stripped/broken. Not good. The water pump shaft is driven from the oil pump, so the input shaft of the oil pump could also be in bad shape. You do not want that one to get stripped. Unfortunately it is not so easy to check without removing the oil pump or the whole auxiliary gear box.
 

·
Registered
2006 Gallardo SE
Joined
·
186 Posts
damn, bad luck - I'm assuming that 'slop' (excessive clearance) could have been checked previously. I assume its a combination or dirt/corrosion that causes the wear and not material quality
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you see my other build thread, I had the engine out (semi recently) and had disassembled all the shaft drives, inspected, and lubricated them. Everything was perfect then and not many miles were added since. It just decided its time had come.
 

·
Registered
2011 LP560-4 Spyder / Blu Fontus
Joined
·
563 Posts
Water pump bearing(s) seizing up might likely cause that. Having that 'coupler' there seems to indicate the engineers already thought of that possible event and were nice enough to put that there. Otherwise what would be involved if the part that drives the 'coupler' had to be replaced ? Just for peace of mind (and curiosity) I would remove the 6 bolts on the back of the old pump and take it apart to verify... not that some piece of debris from who knows where found its' way in there and locked it up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sounds like a fun investigation. It spun nicely by hand during diagnosis, I also completely removed the pump last night in preparation for the new one. I will dismantle it and see what's inside out of curiosity.
 

·
Registered
2011 LP560-4 Spyder / Blu Fontus
Joined
·
563 Posts
Yep, odd that two meshing gears eat themselves up without provocation, unless there had been a clearance/dirt-corrosion issue going on there for some time. Super-cold weather frozen coolant will do it too, but Obviously not happening this time of year...........
 

·
Registered
2006 Gallardo SE
Joined
·
186 Posts
Sounds like a fun investigation. It spun nicely by hand during diagnosis, I also completely removed the pump last night in preparation for the new one. I will dismantle it and see what's inside out of curiosity.
any feedback on what you found?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
385 Posts
Yep, odd that two meshing gears eat themselves up without provocation, unless there had been a clearance/dirt-corrosion issue going on there for some time. Super-cold weather frozen coolant will do it too, but Obviously not happening this time of year...........
Never seen ANTI FREEZE "freeze" before....
 

·
Registered
2011 LP560-4 Spyder / Blu Fontus
Joined
·
563 Posts
Never ANTI FREEZE "freeze" before....
Yep, I have. Freezes inside the pump and prevents the impellers from turning on startup. On a belt driven pump will likely squeal like hell or throw the belt. On this......? Point being you should always check the freezing point on the mixture anytime you buy a car because you can't assume somebody wasn't diluting the mixture by adding straight water or some other scenario. You can pick one up at Autozone for under $5 or just ask to check when in for an oil change. Every Tech has one in their tool box. Antifreeze Hydrometer
Liquid Fluid Bottle Font Drink
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
3,008 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
No, haven't had time to open it up yet. It's sitting on my work bench. Will report back when I do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
385 Posts
Yep, I have. Freezes inside the pump and prevents the impellers from turning on startup. On a belt driven pump will likely squeal like hell or throw the belt. On this......? Point being you should always check the freezing point on the mixture anytime you buy a car because you can't assume somebody wasn't diluting the mixture by adding straight water or some other scenario. You can pick one up at Autozone for under $5 or just ask to check when in for an oil change. Every Tech has one in their tool box. Antifreeze Hydrometer
View attachment 306765
I use Castrol coolant test strips, much more accurate and also check for corrosion in system.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
2011 LP560-4 Spyder / Blu Fontus
Joined
·
563 Posts
I admit I don't use the test strips probably as much as I should. I get them from the tool guy and they're not cheap and a problem for the DIY'er is they have a shelf life like Brake fluid once opened, not individually wrapped. Accurate when new, but later on...? You reminded me to take a reading on a car I just flushed before winterizing... fresh coolant so I just dipped a strip. Maybe hard to read for some, the Freeze point is where I would expect it 50-60% glycol, but the ph is sketchy....looks two different shades of green if you look closely, although looks to be in spec. Between 7-8 is optimal, and this mixture is brand new, less than 100 miles. Test is Cooltrak #311519
Material property Medicine Pharmaceutical drug Font Wood
Flooring Gas Font Cylinder Wood
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top