The Ultimate DIY/Parts Thread.

TABLE OF CONTENTS:
(in alphabetical order, click to be taken to the desired post)

Parts Reference + How To Videos:
Extra Information:
Video Tutorials

NOTE: If you find any errors or have information to add, please send me a
PM and I will get on it ASAP.

BRAKE SYSTEM:

Brake Fluid (Really Good): (TWO Bottles Needed)
-All Models: Motul RBF660

Brake Fluid (THE BEST): (ONE Bottle Needed)
-All Models: Castrol SRF

Stainless Steel Brake Lines:
-Gallardo (LP): Front & Rear Lines
-Huracan 5.2L: Front & Rear Lines

Brake Pads (FRONT):
-Gallardo (LP): EBC DP31513C
-Gallardo (Pre-LP): EBC DP31513C
-Murcielago: EBC DP31110C

Brake Pads (REAR):
-Gallardo (LP): EBC DP31110C
-Gallardo (Pre-LP): EBC DP31110C
-Murcielago: EBC DP31110C

HIGH PERFORMANCE Brake Pads (FRONT):
-Gallardo (LP): EBC DP41513R
-Gallardo (Pre-LP): EBC DP41513R
-Murcielago: EBC DP41110R

HIGH PERFORMANCE Brake Pads (REAR):
-Gallardo (LP): EBC DP41110R
-Gallardo (Pre-LP): EBC DP41110R
-Murcielago: EBC DP41110R

Brake Pads (PARKING):
-Gallardo (LP): EBC UD1034
-Gallardo (Pre-LP): EBC UD1034
-Huracan: EBC UD1034

NOTE: All iterations of the Gallardo as well as the Huracan can ALSO use the
Centric 102.09710 pad for the parking brake. It is about 1/40th the cost
of the OEM pads and 1/3 the cost of the EBC pads. It's likely not as high quality
as the EBC or OEM pads, but I'd argue it doesn't matter. The parking brake is
used to keep a stationary car stationary, so it doesn't need to be a great pad.

NOTE: Yes, there are many different type of brake fluids available. However,
Motul RBF 660 is the best fluid out there with a dry and wet boiling point
leagues past other DOT4 fluids. Its dry boiling point is 617F and its wet
boiling point is 401F.

It only costs a few dollars more per bottle, so there is no reason to try to
"save" money and get a subpar fluid.

With that said: There is one brake fluid that is not only better than RBF660,
but leagues better. Castrol SRF has a dry boiling point of 590F and,
importantly, a wet boiling point of 518F! That's over 100 degrees higher.

A dry boiling point is purely academic. The second you open the bottle, it is
now getting wetter and wetter. Wet boiling point is all that matters.

At first glance, one might see the price for SRF and immediately think "no
way, that is much too expensive." However, you need to remember that
Motul comes in 500ml bottles, while the Castrol comes in 1000ml bottles.
That means you are essentially only paying ~20 more per brake fluid flush.

Considering that you get the best fluid out there and can use it for longer, if
you wish (because of the higher boiling point), it's a no brainer to us the SRF.

HOW TO VIDEO COMING SOON.

COOLING SYSTEM:

Coolant:
-Gallardo (LP): Audi #G013A8J1G (G13)
-Gallardo (Pre-LP): Audi #G013A8J1G (G13)
-Murcielago: Audi #G013A8J1G (G13)
-Huracan: Audi #G013A8J1G (G13)
-Aventador: Audi #G013A8J1G (G13)

High Performance:
-Gallardo (LP): Redline Water Wetter
-Gallardo (Pre-LP): Redline Water Wetter
-Murcielago: Redline Water Wetter
-Huracan: Redline Water Wetter
-Aventador: Redline Water Wetter

Coolant Expansion Tank:
-Gallardo (LP): VW Coolant Expansion Tank #420121403
-Gallardo (Pre-LP): VW Coolant Expansion Tank #7L0121407E
-Aventador: VW Coolant Expansion Tank #420121403

NOTE: Originally, Lamborghini used the blue G11 coolant. As time has gone on,
VW/Audi has upgraded their coolant formula with more effective and efficient
ones. G13 is the newest formulation and is backwards compatible with G11.
G13 is the coolant used on ALL VW/Audi family vehicles.

It's important to note that G12, the formulation before G13, was NOT
compatible with G11 and would cause precipitate to form in the cooling system.
Make sure you use a G13 formula and not a G12!

With that said, if you live in a WARM climate or in a climate where you don't
NEED antifreeze... consider adding less to your radiator, as it actually makes
the system less efficient. It trades off heat displacement for lowering the
freezing point. The opposite of what you need if you're in a place like Southern
California or Dubai!

NOTE: One thing I would highly suggest is the addition of Redline's "Water
Wetter" to your cooling system. I add it to all my cars and it makes a very solid
difference in running temperatures. Especially considering how a lot of us drive
our cars and how high-revving they are, a drop in ~15-20 degrees is
substantial and not only makes the car run better and keep more power
(because the engine isn't getting heatsoaked), but likely improves reliability
and engine life as well.

EXHAUST SYSTEM:

Exhaust Wrapping:
-Exhaust Wrap (2 Req.): DEI Titanium Titanium Exhaust Wrap (2"x100')
-Fastener (3 Req.): DEI Positive Locking Ties
-Locking Tool: DEI Tie Locking Tool

Replacement Clamps:
-V-Band (All Models): Squirrelly Stainless Steel V-Band (3")
-Seal Clamp (All Models): Vibrant Stainless Steel Seal Clamp (3")

Note: As I discussed in the intake section, the Lamborghini's engine bay gets
extremely hot. This leads to a large amount of heatsoak that causes the ECU to
not only pull timing (dropping performance), but also makes the eGear cars
slower off the line (read: more clutch wear).

I highly suggest wrapping your exhaust with titanium exhaust wrap. Not only
does it mean you don't need to deal with heatsoak (or damage to your engine's
rubber and plastic components from the extreme temperatures), but it also
means your exhaust gases are hotter, which means they travel faster, which
leads to performance gains as well.

Either way, it is a win/win from every standpoint (performance, reliability,
wear) that costs very little and also takes very little time to implement. Plus, it
looks bad ass.

FUEL SYSTEM:

Fuel Filter:
-Gallardo 5.2L: Mann WK 720/4
-Gallardo 5.0L: Lamborghini Filter #400201511A
-Murcielago 6.2/6.5L: Lamborghini Filter #400201511A
-Huracan 5.2L: Lamborghini Filter #4s0201511

NOTE: Because of the way the Lamborghini engines work, I suggest that you
occasionally toss a bottle of Seafoam into the gas tank to clean out lines and
injectors and keep things running smooth.

I do it probably once every 1500-2000 miles. I also put Seafoam into the oil
about 100-200 miles before an oil change to clean up the valves and whatnot
because the LP is a direct injected engine.

HOW TO VIDEO COMING SOON.

HVAC SYSTEM:

Cabin Filters:
-Gallardo 5.2L: Mann CU3023-2
-Gallardo 5.0L: Mann CU3023-2
-Murcielago 6.2/6.5L: Lamborghini Filter #410820367A
-Huracan 5.2L: Lamborghini Filter #4s0819439


Heater Control Valve : (If your AC starts blowing hot air from one side.)
-Gallardo 5.0L: Motorcraft YG378

HOW TO VIDEO COMING SOON.

IGNITION SYSTEM:

Spark Plugs (Gallardo 5.2L):
-OEM (Not Great): Champion QC59YC
-Performance: NGK Platinum PFR7G-11S
-High Performance: Denso Iridium IK24
-Extreme Performance: Denso Iridium Racing IK01-24

Ignition Coil (Gallardo 5.2L):
-OEM (Performance): VW/Audi Coil Pack #06E905115E
-OEM (High Performance): VW/Audi Coil Pack #07K905715F

Spark Plugs (Gallardo 5.0L):
-OEM (Not Great): Champion QC59YC
-Performance: NGK Platinum PFR7G-11S
-High Performance: Denso Iridium IK24
-Extreme Performance: Denso Iridium Racing IK01-24

Ignition Coil (Gallardo 5.0L):
-OEM (Performance): VW/Audi Coil Pack #06E905115E
-OEM (High Performance): VW/Audi Coil Pack #07K905715F

Spark Plugs (Huracan 5.2L):
-OEM (Not Great): Champion QC59YC
-Performance: NGK Platinum PFR7G-11S
-High Performance: Denso Iridium IK24
-Extreme Performance: Denso Iridium Racing IK01-24

Ignition Coil (Huracan 5.2L):
-OEM (Performance): VW/Audi Coil Pack #06E905115E
-OEM (High Performance): VW/Audi Coil Pack #07K905715F

Spark Plugs (Murcielago 6.2/6.5L):
-OEM (Not Great): Champion RA59PP
-High Performance: Denso Iridium IXU27
-Extreme Performance: Denso Iridium Racing IXU01-27


NOTE: First, the original spark plugs on the Gallardo etc were much too cold
of a heat range and led to lots of fouling and poor performance. The
subsequent spark plugs were much too hot (a byproduct of using the same
spark plug as VW/Audi). The Denso/NGK plugs I have listed are the best heat
range specific for our cars.

Also, the black ignition coils are the newest iteration from VW/Audi and
produce the strongest spark. The red ignition coils are the same as the Audi
R8 and are a red version of the Gallardo coils, but produce a slightly weaker
spark.

NOTE: The ignition coils are in there pretty tight and, at the same time, being
an Italian engine and all, there is very little room to get your fingers them. Not
only can this lead to you having wrecked, bloody hands, but it can also, likely,
lead to damage to the coil packs (or worse!). Easy fix is to spend like 20 bucks
on a coil pack puller that VW made specifically for their technicians. Click here
to grab one: VW Tool #T40039.

HOW TO VIDEO COMING SOON.

INTAKE SYSTEM:

Air Filter (Gallardo 5.2L): 2 Filters Required.
-OEM: Audi Air Filter #420133844D
-High Performance: K&N E-0669
-High Performance: BMC CRF605/08

Air Filter (Gallardo 5.0L): 2 Filters Required.
-OEM: Lamborghini Filter #07L133843
-High Performance: K&N 33-2490
-High Performance: BMC FB523/03

Air Filter (Huracan 5.2L): 2 Filters Required.
-OEM: Audi Filter #420133844E

Air Filter (Murcielago 6.2/6.5L): 2 Filters Required.
-OEM: Lamborghini Filter #07M133843
-High Performance: K&N 33-2574
-High Performance: BMC FB414/01

Air Filter (Aventado 6.5L): 2 Filters Required.
-OEM: Lamborghini Filter #470133843A
-High Performance: BMC CRF726/01

NOTE: The Huracan uses the exact same air filter as the LP Gallardo. It just
has a different gasket at the back because of the new separate air boxes.

NOTE: The Lamborghini generates a lot of heat in the engine bay. This, in
turn, makes the intake system extremely ineffective because of heatsoak. At
a rest, the Gallardo experiences intake air temperatures of appx. 50 degrees
above ambient air temperature. Driving on the freeway, this increase is
lowered but is still around 20-30 degrees above ambient. This is even worse
when you first start off the line and pull in superheated air into the engine.
The ECU sees this spike in temperature and begins dropping performance--
including clutch engagement.

The best way to fix this is to add reflective heat wrap to the intake system as
I have done. Now, I get ~15 degrees above ambient when at rest and ~5
degrees above ambient when driving. You can really feel the difference. This
is the stuff I used. It reflects 80% of radiant heat. I used the 24"x24" sheets,
but it's all the same: Amazon.com: DEI Reflect-A-Gold

INTERIOR CARE:

The interior of the Gallardo seems to attract dust like moths to a flake and,
since a lot of us have black interiors, the dirt ends up standing out.

I wanted to remove the dust before actually wiping the interior down and
applying a UV-Protective conditioner. Why? Because dust is essentially a
bunch of little rocks, and I didn't want to rub a bunch of little rocks into my
leather.

The best thing I have found for this are those stupid little Swiffer Dusters.
They are extremely soft and use static electricity to attract dust particles into
their matrix. It's a super safe and easy way to remove dust before cleaning
the grime off the leather and conditioning it.

For cleaner and conditioner, I prefer either Zaino Z-9 and Z-10 or the
Wolfgang Leather Care Combo.


Amazon.com: Swiffer 360 Duster Kit

Zaino Z-9 Leather Cleaner
Zaino Z-10 Leather Conditioner

Amazon.com: Wolfgang Leather Care Combo

HOW TO VIDEO COMING SOON.

LUBRICATION SYSTEM:

Gallardo 5.2L: ~9L Required Per Change.
-Motor Oil – OEM (VW 504/507 Spec): Castrol Edge Professional LL03
-Motor Oil – High Performance: Motul 300V 5w-30
-Oil Filter – OEM: VW/Audi Oil Filter #079198405E

Gallardo 5.0L: ~10L Required Per Change.
-Motor Oil – OEM (VW 502 Spec): Liqui Moly 5w-40
-Motor Oil – High Performance: Motul 300V 5w-40
-Motor Oil – Extreme Performance: Royal Purple 20w-50
-Oil Filter – OEM: Lamborghini Oil Filter #07L115561C

Huracan 5.2L: ~9L Required Per Change.
-Motor Oil – OEM (VW 504/507 Spec): Castrol Edge Professional LL03
-Motor Oil – High Performance: Motul 300V 5w-30
-Oil Filter – OEM: VW/Audi Oil Filter #079198405E

Aventador 6.5L: ~12L Required Per Change.
-Motor Oil – OEM (VW 504/507 Spec): Castrol Edge Professional LL03
-Motor Oil – High Performance: Motul 300V 5w-30
-Oil Filter – OEM: Lamborghini Oil Filter #07M115561

Murcielago 6.2/6.5L: ~12L Required Per Change.
-Motor Oil – OEM (VW 502 Spec): Liqui Moly 5w-40
-Motor Oil – High Performance: Motul 300V 5w-40
-Motor Oil – Extreme Performance: Royal Purple 20w-50
-Oil Filter – OEM: Lamborghini Oil Filter #07M115561

Motor Oil (Underground Racing TT):
-UGR w/ Warranty: Mobil One 15w50
-UGR w/o Warranty: Motul 300v 15w50

NOTE: Approximately 100-200 miles before your oil change, pour in appx.
one ounce of SEAFOAM per quart of engine oil into your oil sump and drive the
hell our of the car. This will clean the crap off the pistons/rings and, just as
importantly the valves (especially true on the direct injected LP engine).
Change your oil like normal after driving ~100-200 miles.

HOW TO VIDEO COMING SOON.

MULTIMEDIA SYSTEM:

SD Cards (Music):
-Gallardo (LP): SanDisk Extreme 32GB
-Gallardo (Pre-LP): SanDisk Ultra 4GB
-Huracan: SanDisk Extreme 32GB
-Aventador: SanDisk Extreme 32GB

Bluetooth Adapter:
-Gallardo (LP): Tune2Air WMA1000
-Huracan: Tune2Air WMA1000
-Aventador: Tune2Air WMA1000

NOTE: Some of the Pre-LP Gallardos are not able to read a 32GB SD card.
Instead, use a 4GB SD card to play it safe.

STARTING SYSTEM:

Lightweight Replacement (21lbs):
-Gallardo (LP): Deka ETX30L
-Gallardo (Pre-LP): Deka ETX30L
-Murcielago: Deka ETX30L
-Huracan: Deka ETX30L
-Aventador: Deka ETX30L

Starter:
-Gallardo (LP): DB #SBO0121 / Bosch #0001121006
-Gallardo (Pre-LP): Valeo #438076
-Murcielago: Lamborghini #07M911023 / Bosch #0001218770 -Very Expensive. Better to just have it rebuilt by a starter repair place.
-Huracan: Bosch #0001121003
-Aventador: Lamborghini #07M911024A

HOW TO VIDEO COMING SOON.

WHEELS AND TIRES:

Gallardo (LP) Tire Pressure: 35 Front. 32 Back.
Gallardo (Pre-LP) Tire Pressure: 35 Front. 32 Back.

Murcielago Tire Pressure: 45 Front. 45 Back.

-Tire Pressure Gauge: Amazon.com: TEKTON Digital Tire Gauge
-Wheel Stud Pilot Pins: Amazon.com: VW/Audi Stud Pilot Pin
-Tire Inflator: Amazon.com: Kensun D1002 Inflator

NOTE: It's smart to have a wheel stud pilot pin with your car as it helps you
install wheels without smashing the rim awkwardly into the caliper and/or
trying to line up the holes.

USEFUL/REQUIRED TOOLS:

I assume you have a basic tool kit with sockets, screwdrivers, and whatnot.
With that in mind, this is a list of more specialized tools that fall in to one of
two categories: 1) Tools that I highly suggest you have because they make the
job much easier/safer/efficient, and 2) Tools that might not be part of a
"standard" tool kit that you will realize halfway through a job that you need.

Situation #2 is the WORST, as we have likely all experienced not having a
random weird sized socket or a very unique tool once our car is half taken
apart.

"Required" Tools:
-LP 5.2L Oil Filter Removal: Tekton 1-1/4" Socket
-Fluid Draining (All Models): XZN/Triple Square Metric Bit Set
-Spark Plug Socket (All Models) 5/8" Magnetic Swivel Socket
-Security Fastener Removal Neiko Security Bit Set

"Useful" Tools:
-Ignition Coil Removal: VW Tool #T40039
-Brake Caliper Spreader: Lang Brake Caliper Tool
-Brake Bleeding: MityVac Brake Bleeder
-Pre-Oil Change Cleaner: Seafoam SF-16
-Injector/Fuel System Cleaner: Seafoam SF-16
-Tire Pressure Gauge: TEKTON Digital Tire Gauge
-Wheel Stud Pilot Pins: VW/Audi Stud Pilot Pin
-Tire Inflator: Kensun D1002 Inflator

NOTE: First off, I should mention that even though one of the lists is titled
"Useful" and not "Required," I highly suggest you grab those too. They are
almost required... Just not required to complete your task.

For example, you don't NEED a caliper spreader tool like I noted, however,
using a screwdriver or another style of tool might damage your caliper or
rotor. You don't NEED wheel stud pilot pins, but trying to put your wheels
back on the hub without them means you are likely going to be whacking the
wheel into the caliper and rotor, causing damage to all three. You don't NEED
a brake bleeding kit, but using the kit allows you to evacuate air much more
effectively, by yourself, instead of having to rely on a person pressing the
brake pedal up and down.

Second off, I have listed specific tools for a reason— they are what I use...
and I use them because they are, often times, the "best" without needing to
spend a load of money on a brand like SnapOn. For example, the spark plug
socket is a special design that not only has a swivel to it, but is magnetic (as
in it doesn't use a rubber gasket to "hold" the plug) and also have a unique
socket design that never rounds out the edges of the plug. If you've ever had
a rubber spark plug socket gasket "detach" from the socket while your plug is
in the block, you know how low-key terrifying it is. Similarly, I use that style
caliper spreader because it is designed to apply equal pressure on both pads,
across all pistons at once. These are all "best practices" for the car.

We are already saving a LOAD of money doing this stuff ourselves. It's
smartest to invest in the correct tool for the job and not have to worry.

Opinion and How-To

Maintenance:

Performance: