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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Now that I have everyone’s attention...lol...

Has anyone stripped their oil drain hole?

The oil plug went in fine during the last oil change, but for some reason, when I removed it today, it came out at a slight angle and took out a bunch of threads with it. I had to dig out scraps of metal from inside the drain hole area.

Even though I torqued it at the recommended 45 N-m during the last oil change, I suspect that value is too high. I’m used to torquing oil plugs at 25 ft-lbs, so that’s what I’m going to do from now on.

Anyhoo, has anyone been through this before? What is the thread size and is there a longer plug available anywhere? I suspect that that with many threads now gone, I’ll only grab one or two threads with what’s remaining and am concerned about torquing on only a couple of threads and making matters worse.

Thanks, Drew
 

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you will need to get it repaired, can be done with a "Helicoil"

basically drilled / tapped to a bigger size, and a new threaded insert installed...

I would not risk just using a longer plug, if it fails and you drop oil... could destroy your motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. Does the pan need to come out, or can it be done in place?
 

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yeah Id say the pan will most likely need to come out to make sure no metal gets into the engine.
 

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Nicely done:eek: I agree that you need to repair it. A Helicoil should work but I wouldn't chance trying to do it without removing the sump. There will be metal shavings that get into the sump from the drilling and tapping operation. You might be tempted to flush the debris out but that's risky business and not worth it in my opinion.

Steve
 

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Ouch, this is hard to look at.

It looks as though you may want to have the face planed as well, looks messed up where the copper crush washer faces up to?

I never torque aluminum plugs, I don't trust aluminum and always use a normal length 3/8 ratchet tightening by feel.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ouch, this is hard to look at.

It looks as though you may want to have the face planed as well, looks messed up where the copper crush washer faces up to?

I never torque aluminum plugs, I don't trust aluminum and always use a normal length 3/8 ratchet tightening by feel.
So I wonder why the specs call out the massive 45 N-m torque?

I looked at it again and still have 4-5 untouched threads left in the pan. Did a search and found a 14X1.5 Dorman plug that has 11 threads, at double the OEM length (0.93” long). I’ll be able to engage just as many threads as the OEM plug (4). The metal pieces from the oil pan were all external and came out when the plug came out.
 

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So I wonder why the specs call out the massive 45 N-m torque?

I looked at it again and still have 4-5 untouched threads left in the pan. Did a search and found a 14X1.5 Dorman plug that has 11 threads, at double the OEM length (0.93” long). I’ll be able to engage just as many threads as the OEM plug (4). The metal pieces from the oil pan were all external and came out when the plug came out.
You may still want to run a tap in there to clean the threads, otherwise you risk messing up the rest of them. Could probably just run the tap in a couple threads at a time and not clean the last few threads, cleaning the tap in between so you don't push any shavings in the hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You may still want to run a tap in there to clean the threads, otherwise you risk messing up the rest of them. Could probably just run the tap in a couple threads at a time and not clean the last few threads, cleaning the tap in between so you don't push any shavings in the hole.
Good idea - thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #11

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That's gotta hurt!, that's why I hate places where you get a low price oil change: they tend to overtighten your oil plug & filter.
I would drill and put grease in the bit to catch all shavings, also in the tap... removing that pan is not a walk in the park, also maybe run a couple quarts of oil n let it drain.

Add: maybe make a "sweeper gizmo" L-shaped wire & cloth to insert & clean around the inside...
 

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How did this happen again? I’m sure u were being careful. Is this something that happens on these cats easier than others?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
How did this happen again? I’m sure u were being careful. Is this something that happens on these cats easier than others?
Hey Jason,

I made the mistake of following online guidance, in places like this:

Gallardo Oil & Filter Change

https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=y-BuXafuIs_7-gSo67jwAQ&q=changing+oil+in+gallardo+spyder&oq=chan&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.35i39l2j0l8.4245.6843..9496...1.0..0.167.803.0j7......0....1..gws-wiz.....10..0i131.vroeXd5LqTU#kpvalbx=_1eBuXcXZK4Wt-gSyjpzoCQ22


Both sites said to "tighten the oil drain plug" to 45 N-m, which is what I did. That equates to 33.2 ft-lbs. In looking back, it probably should have been about half that (20 ft-lbs). And perhaps it was overtightened by the previous owner as well, which added to the problem

There's a lot of bad info out there. Everyone needs to be cautious as to what "guidance" to follow.
 

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well the service manual states 45Nm.

I'd say the threads were damaged from previously over tightening, or it was cross threaded.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
well the service manual states 45Nm.

I'd say the threads were damaged from previously over tightening, or it was cross threaded.
Agree...I think it was over torqued and damaged previously. But again, 45 N-m seems excessive on an aluminum oil pan. Do a search and you’ll see that many recommend 20-25 ft-lbs., max.

Am having it repaired and then will have Fumotos installed on both drain holes.
 
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