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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for experince in removing the oil pump pulley, to replace the o-ring (38) and seal (14) behind it.

is the nut stadard clockwise-tighten thread?
What does small circlip (33) visible inside the nut hold?

not taking any chances here.

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The 33 clip is for holding a plug in because its a hollow shaft. For weight saving most likely. Depending on which way the pulleys rotate is probably the opposite of how the threads go so it wont loosen as it runs. Usually if there are a few threads sticking out after the nut you should be able to see if its left or right. Not sure if you can just throw seals in it. You might want to take it to a hydraulic place to have them inspect the shaft. Im sure you dont want it to start puking oil all over.
 

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I have yet to remove this myself but will be as soon as I get the timing chain cover back from the machine shop. The direction of crank rotation is counter clockwise when viewed from the timing chain side so the threads should not be reverse on that nut. I'm not sure what The Technician is referring to but if you are doing this in the car it not feasible to take it to anywhere nor do I see the need for that. There shouldn't be any issues with the shaft itself and it should be relatively easy to look to see if there is a nice smooth surface for the seal before installing the new one. Let us know how it goes. I believe Geno is doing this soon as well so he may post details about doing it in the car on his thread.
 

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and that is definately a standard thread nut (right tight, left loose). Seth is right, engine rotates counterclockwise as viewed from the chain side, and if you leave the plugs in and turn that nut it will come off for sure. If you have the plugs out, the nut will stay on and the crank will rotate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Got the seal replaced.

The nut is indeed CW thread, 140Nm for re-install.
The small alu. end plug has a thead, so you can remove it by pulling it out after you remove the small circlip. Replace the o-oring.

The spline axel inside the hollow axel can also be pulled out using the small thread in the end of it. The pully now rotate freely, independent of crankshaft.

Remove the big circlip and woodruff key, drill a small hole in the old seal, add a selftapping screw and pull out.
Tap the new seal home, and reverse install the rest.

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It seems that is an incredibly easy process if the engine is out. Is this a project you are doing with the engine still in the car? Almost seems like a proactive cheap and easy maintenance fix if you have your belts off.
 

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It seems that is an incredibly easy process if the engine is out. Is this a project you are doing with the engine still in the car? Almost seems like a proactive cheap and easy maintenance fix if you have your belts off.
I would say replace it during any major service. It's not super critical if it fails and should last quite some time so I think many people skip this during an engine out so it ends up failing. Like you said, it's easy enough with the engine out so just do it then so you don't get a mess and have to change it with the engine in.
 

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is there any reason to remove the splined axle shaft?

also, where does o-ring 38 go? does it go in the groove behind the threads for the castle nut? mine does not have anything there currently (maybe it rotted off)

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