reserved
PRE LP Bumper Skeleton
A few years back no I had teh rear bumper off in order to fit my exhaust. I noted at the time that the inner skeleton had seen better days, suffering as they all do from heat induced cracking.
Whilst in there I repaired a few mounting points but the main structure was in such a state I decided even trying to fix risked it disintegrating. I therefore put everything together and filed it under the must do something sometime list.
As many know thats easier said and done as it seem Lamborghini won't supply the inner skeleton on its own. A new complete bumper is a good few thousand plus pait.
Over the last couple of years I toyed with the FGP fiberglass one, but its expensive and needfs a lot of fettling from what I hear. I toyed with the aluminium one made by a guy in the UK. But after a promising start not only is it also not cheap but no-one seems to actually have managed to get their hands on one.
I recently needed to get the bumper off again due to a challenge with access to teh gearbox oil filter, and things with the sleleton had only got worse. Just as I'd resolved myself to repairing with a plastic repair kit and refabbing mounts with sugru, hope popped up in the form ao f a post by the Bullrider stating that it seemed it was actually possible to get the skeleton on its own.
With a part number 400807311
Off I went to Eurospares whose website was spectacularly unhelpful
www.eurospares.co.uk
Listed as body bumper it gave no clue as to what models it applied to and no pictures. Eurospares duly contacted teh factory for ma and despite 6 montsh of pestering Lamborghini would/could not even supply a picture let alone any clarity as to what this actually was.
Whilst not exactly cheap at £295 plus 20% tax, it was sufficiently cheap enough compared to the alternatives and coupled with my unerring faith in our community I decided to take a punt and ordered on.
2 weeks later the below arrived at my doorstep
![Wood Air gun Trigger Gun barrel Gun accessory]()
Now the question will it fit?
A few cracks on the olf one for sure
![Automotive tire Grey Asphalt Bumper Road surface]()
![Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Motor vehicle Wood]()
![Automotive tire Hood Bumper Tread Wood]()
![Wood Grey Trigger Air gun Composite material]()
![Automotive design Bumper Automotive exterior Automotive tire Auto part]()
A quick overlay on the old one and it does indeed seem like it fitss
![Automotive tire Wood Urban design Bumper Rectangle]()
Whilst in there I repaired a few mounting points but the main structure was in such a state I decided even trying to fix risked it disintegrating. I therefore put everything together and filed it under the must do something sometime list.
As many know thats easier said and done as it seem Lamborghini won't supply the inner skeleton on its own. A new complete bumper is a good few thousand plus pait.
Over the last couple of years I toyed with the FGP fiberglass one, but its expensive and needfs a lot of fettling from what I hear. I toyed with the aluminium one made by a guy in the UK. But after a promising start not only is it also not cheap but no-one seems to actually have managed to get their hands on one.
I recently needed to get the bumper off again due to a challenge with access to teh gearbox oil filter, and things with the sleleton had only got worse. Just as I'd resolved myself to repairing with a plastic repair kit and refabbing mounts with sugru, hope popped up in the form ao f a post by the Bullrider stating that it seemed it was actually possible to get the skeleton on its own.
With a part number 400807311
Off I went to Eurospares whose website was spectacularly unhelpful
Genuine Lamborghini 400807311.
Details of the Genuine Lamborghini 400807311, available from £295.71
www.eurospares.co.uk
Listed as body bumper it gave no clue as to what models it applied to and no pictures. Eurospares duly contacted teh factory for ma and despite 6 montsh of pestering Lamborghini would/could not even supply a picture let alone any clarity as to what this actually was.
Whilst not exactly cheap at £295 plus 20% tax, it was sufficiently cheap enough compared to the alternatives and coupled with my unerring faith in our community I decided to take a punt and ordered on.
2 weeks later the below arrived at my doorstep
Now the question will it fit?
A few cracks on the olf one for sure
A quick overlay on the old one and it does indeed seem like it fitss
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Non-issue these days. Clips right on. Even bought an extra... Cuzz why not.
![Wood Rectangle Red Composite material Gun barrel]()
Well. Overall removal easy. But unsnapping black old skeleton seems near impossible. Also the lights over the license plate seems different. There are holes for the lights of course in the new. But the old seems to have sealant or something. And wire is routed out side. Thoughts. ?
![Wood Brick Gas Brickwork Tints and shades]()
![Automotive tire Bumper Rim Gas Automotive exterior]()
Mine was the same. Just scrape away the sealant with a knife or screwdriver and pry the metal bracket off the old skeleton. Install on the new one and reseal. I used some high temp stuff from Lowes.
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle]()
8
I figured I would write up a little bit about this to help others on the way... for the most part this was pretty simple, I was just unaware of the over license plate light housing stuff to deal with.
I will do this in a few posts...
PART 1 - BUMPER REMOVAL
First ... Pre-LP Bumper Skeletons... known to get brittle/crack/lose tabs etc over time due to heat, and vibration etc... yay for plastic. For a long while it was thought you could only buy the inner plastic piece with the outer actual bumper but that is not true or at least no longer true. Glen at AMH Parts (no affiliation) has the inner parts at a decent price. You simply have to remove the old bumper, pry off the old inner frame from the inside and then replace it all.
There are a few videos online that show how to remove the bumper from the car which I would recommend watching. I'll just give an overview here of some of that as the bumper stuff is actually pretty straightforward...
1. Unscrew all the little screws holding on the rear hex panel bits. Chances are you already have lost some but all the smaller pieces have 4, one in each corner and the wider center pieces has 7 or 8. Try to make sure you keep all the screws or washers. You may want to order additional screws, washers and the metal bracket plates as well as for example my old bumper had lost several tabs... this meant that older backing clips, and screws etc were just "gone". So you will want replacements for the new one.
![]()
2. Remove the rear wheels. You hopefully know how to do this.... but generally loosen lug bolts on both sides before lifting the car. Then you can jack up from the rear center cross member and place jack stands at the rear jack points.... Remove the wheels because you have to remove the rear inner fender liners. These have to come off because A) part of is is screwed to bumper, B) bumper to upper quarter panel bolts are behind it and need to be removed and C) you will need access to pull out the side marker lights. All that to come...
3. After jacking up the car remove the rear fender lines. It's just all the outer screws. There are two silver ones on the inside that are machine screws. Most of the rest are typical other lambo screws. There is one on the upper diagonal inside that goes into the body work that is also different... Lastly there are two screws and washers on the BOTTOM you have to remove as well from underneath. After that the liner should very easily come out. I cleaned mine up. Be sure to keep all the screws organized and know what went where.
![]()
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4. Disconnect all the lights. There are side marker lights that need to be pulled out of the housing gently... grab the rubber base not the wire and wiggle to remove. One on each side. Also there should be the main rear lights connector behind where you unscrewed all the original hex trim. Mine was on the right side but I have seen others in the center... It's an audi style clip so you use a screwdriver to manipulate the tab and pull the connector apart. My L shape tab wanted to come out so if it does be sure to store it somewhere safe for connecting later.
![]()
![]()
5. Unbolt the bumper. There is a bolt on each side on the upper inside corner where the fender line was removed - in front of the side marker lights. You will need a 10mm wrench on top and bottom to hold and loose from both sides. Put aside the washers, screw and bolt.
In addition to the corners there are 2 screws underneath the rear diffuser under the car - two on each side - that need to be undone.
Then there are all the screws in the bumper itself... the orange tabs on top that hold the lower bumper we are removing to the upper section. There is one on some of the corners to remove. Note you don't have to remove the double ones as that is not part of the bumper... look and you will see. Then the majority to remove are are on the bottom part of that middle trim area and sides. That's it. Bumper is technically loose but will probably hold in place since sandwiched on the sides with a mounting bracket and the side light housings.
![]()
![]()
6. Pull off the bumper. Best to have a friend tho I did it solo. I used some tape - arguably could have used some higher tack tape tho it worked. You basically pull out (carefully) from the upper side to slide off the side marker light cylinders from the inner frame, and then slide backwards the entire side/assembly. Be sure to have some blankets or towels etc to rest it all on.
![]()
I will do this in a few posts...
PART 1 - BUMPER REMOVAL
First ... Pre-LP Bumper Skeletons... known to get brittle/crack/lose tabs etc over time due to heat, and vibration etc... yay for plastic. For a long while it was thought you could only buy the inner plastic piece with the outer actual bumper but that is not true or at least no longer true. Glen at AMH Parts (no affiliation) has the inner parts at a decent price. You simply have to remove the old bumper, pry off the old inner frame from the inside and then replace it all.
There are a few videos online that show how to remove the bumper from the car which I would recommend watching. I'll just give an overview here of some of that as the bumper stuff is actually pretty straightforward...
1. Unscrew all the little screws holding on the rear hex panel bits. Chances are you already have lost some but all the smaller pieces have 4, one in each corner and the wider center pieces has 7 or 8. Try to make sure you keep all the screws or washers. You may want to order additional screws, washers and the metal bracket plates as well as for example my old bumper had lost several tabs... this meant that older backing clips, and screws etc were just "gone". So you will want replacements for the new one.
2. Remove the rear wheels. You hopefully know how to do this.... but generally loosen lug bolts on both sides before lifting the car. Then you can jack up from the rear center cross member and place jack stands at the rear jack points.... Remove the wheels because you have to remove the rear inner fender liners. These have to come off because A) part of is is screwed to bumper, B) bumper to upper quarter panel bolts are behind it and need to be removed and C) you will need access to pull out the side marker lights. All that to come...
3. After jacking up the car remove the rear fender lines. It's just all the outer screws. There are two silver ones on the inside that are machine screws. Most of the rest are typical other lambo screws. There is one on the upper diagonal inside that goes into the body work that is also different... Lastly there are two screws and washers on the BOTTOM you have to remove as well from underneath. After that the liner should very easily come out. I cleaned mine up. Be sure to keep all the screws organized and know what went where.
4. Disconnect all the lights. There are side marker lights that need to be pulled out of the housing gently... grab the rubber base not the wire and wiggle to remove. One on each side. Also there should be the main rear lights connector behind where you unscrewed all the original hex trim. Mine was on the right side but I have seen others in the center... It's an audi style clip so you use a screwdriver to manipulate the tab and pull the connector apart. My L shape tab wanted to come out so if it does be sure to store it somewhere safe for connecting later.
5. Unbolt the bumper. There is a bolt on each side on the upper inside corner where the fender line was removed - in front of the side marker lights. You will need a 10mm wrench on top and bottom to hold and loose from both sides. Put aside the washers, screw and bolt.
In addition to the corners there are 2 screws underneath the rear diffuser under the car - two on each side - that need to be undone.
Then there are all the screws in the bumper itself... the orange tabs on top that hold the lower bumper we are removing to the upper section. There is one on some of the corners to remove. Note you don't have to remove the double ones as that is not part of the bumper... look and you will see. Then the majority to remove are are on the bottom part of that middle trim area and sides. That's it. Bumper is technically loose but will probably hold in place since sandwiched on the sides with a mounting bracket and the side light housings.
6. Pull off the bumper. Best to have a friend tho I did it solo. I used some tape - arguably could have used some higher tack tape tho it worked. You basically pull out (carefully) from the upper side to slide off the side marker light cylinders from the inner frame, and then slide backwards the entire side/assembly. Be sure to have some blankets or towels etc to rest it all on.
Very nice detailed write up 👍I figured I would write up a little bit about this to help others on the way... for the most part this was pretty simple, I was just unaware of the over license plate light housing stuff to deal with.
I will do this in a few posts...
PART 1 - BUMPER REMOVAL
First ... Pre-LP Bumper Skeletons... known to get brittle/crack/lose tabs etc over time due to heat, and vibration etc... yay for plastic. For a long while it was thought you could only buy the inner plastic piece with the outer actual bumper but that is not true or at least no longer true. Glen at AMH Parts (no affiliation) has the inner parts at a decent price. You simply have to remove the old bumper, pry off the old inner frame from the inside and then replace it all.
There are a few videos online that show how to remove the bumper from the car which I would recommend watching. I'll just give an overview here of some of that as the bumper stuff is actually pretty straightforward...
1. Unscrew all the little screws holding on the rear hex panel bits. Chances are you already have lost some but all the smaller pieces have 4, one in each corner and the wider center pieces has 7 or 8. Try to make sure you keep all the screws or washers. You may want to order additional screws, washers and the metal bracket plates as well as for example my old bumper had lost several tabs... this meant that older backing clips, and screws etc were just "gone". So you will want replacements for the new one.
![]()
2. Remove the rear wheels. You hopefully know how to do this.... but generally loosen lug bolts on both sides before lifting the car. Then you can jack up from the rear center cross member and place jack stands at the rear jack points.... Remove the wheels because you have to remove the rear inner fender liners. These have to come off because A) part of is is screwed to bumper, B) bumper to upper quarter panel bolts are behind it and need to be removed and C) you will need access to pull out the side marker lights. All that to come...
3. After jacking up the car remove the rear fender lines. It's just all the outer screws. There are two silver ones on the inside that are machine screws. Most of the rest are typical other lambo screws. There is one on the upper diagonal inside that goes into the body work that is also different... Lastly there are two screws and washers on the BOTTOM you have to remove as well from underneath. After that the liner should very easily come out. I cleaned mine up. Be sure to keep all the screws organized and know what went where.
![]()
![]()
4. Disconnect all the lights. There are side marker lights that need to be pulled out of the housing gently... grab the rubber base not the wire and wiggle to remove. One on each side. Also there should be the main rear lights connector behind where you unscrewed all the original hex trim. Mine was on the right side but I have seen others in the center... It's an audi style clip so you use a screwdriver to manipulate the tab and pull the connector apart. My L shape tab wanted to come out so if it does be sure to store it somewhere safe for connecting later.
![]()
![]()
5. Unbolt the bumper. There is a bolt on each side on the upper inside corner where the fender line was removed - in front of the side marker lights. You will need a 10mm wrench on top and bottom to hold and loose from both sides. Put aside the washers, screw and bolt.
In addition to the corners there are 2 screws underneath the rear diffuser under the car - two on each side - that need to be undone.
Then there are all the screws in the bumper itself... the orange tabs on top that hold the lower bumper we are removing to the upper section. There is one on some of the corners to remove. Note you don't have to remove the double ones as that is not part of the bumper... look and you will see. Then the majority to remove are are on the bottom part of that middle trim area and sides. That's it. Bumper is technically loose but will probably hold in place since sandwiched on the sides with a mounting bracket and the side light housings.
![]()
![]()
6. Pull off the bumper. Best to have a friend tho I did it solo. I used some tape - arguably could have used some higher tack tape tho it worked. You basically pull out (carefully) from the upper side to slide off the side marker light cylinders from the inner frame, and then slide backwards the entire side/assembly. Be sure to have some blankets or towels etc to rest it all on.
![]()
15
PART 2 - INNER FRAME REMOVAL
7. Now that you got the bumper off you need to remove the frame. I laid out my new frame next to the old one and bumper to make sure things matched. I then transferred all the metal backing plates from the old to the new to make sure i was putting them in the same spots.
To remove the older frame while it snaps in there are first some screws to remove. First off one is behind the license plate. I probably should have just removed my license plate prior but if you haven't done this remove the plate. There is a single screw that goes into the center of the inner plastic frame to a tab. Unscrew and move the tab to the new skeleton.
There is also a heat shield on each side, just unscrew and rotate it outwards.
![]()
7b.
Now you also need to look and remove all the screws that hold the inner skeleton to the rear diffuser. There is one in the corner by the heat shield area plus several more in between. Just unscrew them all.
8. Before trying to pop off the skeleton you also will want to remove the license plate lights. Use a screwdriver in the tabbed area and carefully pry down and loosen to remove the light assembly. I totally pulled off the lights and used some colored tape to note which went where. That said its lights so I dont think polarity etc matters but I did want to make sure to reorient in the same orientation as well so this helped me keep track. The actually connectors just pull straight off the light socket.
![]()
![]()
9. Pull off the old skeleton from the actual fiberglass bumper.
The entire thing is held in with tabs... carefully try to pull back in such a way to release each tab. I ended up cracking/breaking my older inner skeleton more along the way...which si fine and arguably maybe easier... this was the more challenging part for me as they really didn't want to release easily and it is tight enough to be hard to work around... but it will eventually come out. Just make sure not to damage any of the actual real fiberglass bumper...
![]()
![]()
10. Now before you can snap the new liner in you have to transfer the actual light "sockets" and metal plate from the old skeleton to the new skeleton...
If it is like mine it is tricky to see or even know there is a metal plate there... mine looked like black rubber sealant which it what it was. You will need to use a screwdriver etc and peel of a lot of the caulking. After that you will see there are 3 rivets hold each of the two metal plates in place.... Take a drill bit of same size and drill out the rivets... then you can remove the metal plates with the wiring harness together...
![]()
![]()
![]()
If you flip to the other side of the skeleton you will be able to see the three rivets, one in center of a section and then two others. As noted drill them out and remove the plates..
![]()
![]()
11. Transfer the light sockets to the new skeleton. I used some sealant caulking to put into place. Taped to hold. Then drill new pilot holes where new rivets go. Then hand rivet into place...
I used green 1/8" 3mm medium short rivets which appeared to be similar to the oem.
![]()
![]()
12. Now you can finally pop the new skeleton in. Line everything up, go slow, triple check ALL the sections as you start to press together. I found it is pretty tight fit so you need to line up over and over. In addition you may want to fit check the open "tabs" on the new skeleton that are going to be used... I found on one of mine the tab had a side bit of plastic that was not cut... and was holding me up. I couldn't figure out why one corner of my new frame wasn't going in until I had most of it pressed together. Once I found the culprit I had to use a dremel to remove the extra plastic..then it all popped in. I decided to use a little aluminum adhesive heat resistant tape in some areas... will see if it does anything at all or not... I probably could have used more but wanted to get this put back together...
After snapping put the screws back in... the ones to the diffuser, heat shield and center plate frame. Also now is a good time to add any other backing screw tab clips (before you screw down the heat shield) as well.
![]()
13. That's it. Reassemble in reverse order... I found my car was much quieter and no longer rattling from the rear as much. When I removed the bumper i had found even more cracked and broken tabs and pieces... than I expected... so there you go.
![]()
![]()
Hope this helps someone...
7. Now that you got the bumper off you need to remove the frame. I laid out my new frame next to the old one and bumper to make sure things matched. I then transferred all the metal backing plates from the old to the new to make sure i was putting them in the same spots.
To remove the older frame while it snaps in there are first some screws to remove. First off one is behind the license plate. I probably should have just removed my license plate prior but if you haven't done this remove the plate. There is a single screw that goes into the center of the inner plastic frame to a tab. Unscrew and move the tab to the new skeleton.
There is also a heat shield on each side, just unscrew and rotate it outwards.
7b.
Now you also need to look and remove all the screws that hold the inner skeleton to the rear diffuser. There is one in the corner by the heat shield area plus several more in between. Just unscrew them all.
8. Before trying to pop off the skeleton you also will want to remove the license plate lights. Use a screwdriver in the tabbed area and carefully pry down and loosen to remove the light assembly. I totally pulled off the lights and used some colored tape to note which went where. That said its lights so I dont think polarity etc matters but I did want to make sure to reorient in the same orientation as well so this helped me keep track. The actually connectors just pull straight off the light socket.
9. Pull off the old skeleton from the actual fiberglass bumper.
The entire thing is held in with tabs... carefully try to pull back in such a way to release each tab. I ended up cracking/breaking my older inner skeleton more along the way...which si fine and arguably maybe easier... this was the more challenging part for me as they really didn't want to release easily and it is tight enough to be hard to work around... but it will eventually come out. Just make sure not to damage any of the actual real fiberglass bumper...
10. Now before you can snap the new liner in you have to transfer the actual light "sockets" and metal plate from the old skeleton to the new skeleton...
If it is like mine it is tricky to see or even know there is a metal plate there... mine looked like black rubber sealant which it what it was. You will need to use a screwdriver etc and peel of a lot of the caulking. After that you will see there are 3 rivets hold each of the two metal plates in place.... Take a drill bit of same size and drill out the rivets... then you can remove the metal plates with the wiring harness together...
If you flip to the other side of the skeleton you will be able to see the three rivets, one in center of a section and then two others. As noted drill them out and remove the plates..
11. Transfer the light sockets to the new skeleton. I used some sealant caulking to put into place. Taped to hold. Then drill new pilot holes where new rivets go. Then hand rivet into place...
I used green 1/8" 3mm medium short rivets which appeared to be similar to the oem.
12. Now you can finally pop the new skeleton in. Line everything up, go slow, triple check ALL the sections as you start to press together. I found it is pretty tight fit so you need to line up over and over. In addition you may want to fit check the open "tabs" on the new skeleton that are going to be used... I found on one of mine the tab had a side bit of plastic that was not cut... and was holding me up. I couldn't figure out why one corner of my new frame wasn't going in until I had most of it pressed together. Once I found the culprit I had to use a dremel to remove the extra plastic..then it all popped in. I decided to use a little aluminum adhesive heat resistant tape in some areas... will see if it does anything at all or not... I probably could have used more but wanted to get this put back together...
After snapping put the screws back in... the ones to the diffuser, heat shield and center plate frame. Also now is a good time to add any other backing screw tab clips (before you screw down the heat shield) as well.
13. That's it. Reassemble in reverse order... I found my car was much quieter and no longer rattling from the rear as much. When I removed the bumper i had found even more cracked and broken tabs and pieces... than I expected... so there you go.
Hope this helps someone...
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
