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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi All,

Some of you may have seen my post on the Lamborghini Gallardo FB page. But I am trying to put together definitive information on how to fix this issue. My 07 has idle hunting and I cant stand it. Thus far I have found one tiny vacuum leak (vacuum line to exhaust actuators) that did not change the behavior. I have fully charged the battery. I have done this "key on for 60 seconds to learn tps" nothing. I have found that with my spring booster installed the hunting is worse than if I remove it, 100%. Tested back and forth twice, both times without the sprint booster the rpm swing was cut in about half. With sprint booster rpms go from around 850-1450, with out sprint booster its about 850-1100.

Thus far I have found one person who tried to fit the volvo throttle bodies and failed, and I have spoken with one person who fitted volvo s60 throttle bodies and it has been working for a couple of years now. I am hoping to either figure out either exactly what part number needs to be used, and if it needs to be programed or unprogrammed (there is much talk of this on the volvo side but not much on the lamborghini side. OR to see if replacing the TPS sensor with the non contact in the same way they do on the volvo side will work for us.

As of now I only hear people replacing the throttle bodies or sending them to xemodex for 1050 a pop!

I am going to take a risk here of potentially ruining my throttle bodies to see if I can apply the same fix as they do on the volvo units.

Here are a few links I found helpful:

ETM Contactless TPS Refit -- Details and Resources- How to fit the non contact sensor

Volvo Throttle Body TPS Rebuild Kit - non contact sensor kit I plan to use

Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures - some nice pictures

At the end of my journey I am hoping to be able to say "Yes, use this PN volvo throttle body and you will be fine" or "Yes you can use this conversion kit and you will be fine"

I know the gallardo is a fairly DIY platform and I cant be the only one that does not want to spend 1800 on a new unit or 1100 to send them out to xemodex!

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
On a side note. If anyone here already has swapped to a volvo throttle body with success please share here! I have spent a good amount of time searching here and other places with no definitive conclusion.
 

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08 SL #07008 in Nero Noctis
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when you give the car some gas in N, do the rpms spike or car sounds like its CAMMING (ala a 65 stang). or when you give the car light blip does it jump up and sort of reverberate for a moment?

have you taken the intakes off, give car some gas and watched your TB's? are they opening together? at different rates? not at all?
 

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Wrong approach completely -
First pull off the air intake tubes and clean throttle bodies in place and by clean i mean in high detail using alcohol, qtips, very stiff tooth brush. I had a similar problem with mine on an 04 and when i look into body and vane they looked pretty clean until i started to wipe them down and realized how dirty they really where, take your time and clean everything over and over, this includes replacing the air filters and cleaning the entire air inlet system. I also a tack rag on the blade in barrel of the body this type rag is like 1000 grit sand paper, then again white glove test of sorts with alcohol, back together problem solved never had another issue and was looking at rebuilt throttle bodies at some crazy cost, i spend several hours cleaning everything and it solved the problem, if a serious cleaning does not solve it possible damage to one of the blade edges its does happen and cant see it unless magnified, a vacuum leak and/or sensor- start with serious cleaning
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
when you give the car some gas in N, do the rpms spike or car sounds like its CAMMING (ala a 65 stang). or when you give the car light blip does it jump up and sort of reverberate for a moment?

have you taken the intakes off, give car some gas and watched your TB's? are they opening together? at different rates? not at all?
When I blip in neutral its inconsistent. I've heard a odd camming like you mentioned once, but then never again. I have also hear it be just fine.

I've taken the intake track off. have not watched while revving, only while key on / idle. Key on yields the normal close open self check, then at idle they will move together just fine but clearly opening and closing sporadically. If I try to hold revs at like 2k or so, the surge is still present, I can not get it to remain constant, not as bad but still not right.

Wrong approach completely -
First pull off the air intake tubes and clean throttle bodies in place and by clean i mean in high detail using alcohol, qtips, very stiff tooth brush. I had a similar problem with mine on an 04 and when i look into body and vane they looked pretty clean until i started to wipe them down and realized how dirty they really where, take your time and clean everything over and over, this includes replacing the air filters and cleaning the entire air inlet system. I also a tack rag on the blade in barrel of the body this type rag is like 1000 grit sand paper, then again white glove test of sorts with alcohol, back together problem solved never had another issue and was looking at rebuilt throttle bodies at some crazy cost, i spend several hours cleaning everything and it solved the problem, if a serious cleaning does not solve it possible damage to one of the blade edges its does happen and cant see it unless magnified, a vacuum leak and/or sensor- start with serious cleaning
What makes you say this? The TB design is known for wearing out the TPS sensor and causing this exact issue.

I'll give em a cleaning I suppose but I'm rather doubtful. The car exhibits the same behavior with or without the intake track, and I have already checked fairly well for vacuum leaks. With no change in idle after fixing the one leak I did find, said mystery leak would have to be even bigger and I am fairly confident in my work.

Regarding your success I am glad it worked for you and I hope it works for me, but I hope you can understand my skepticism. Seems there's a fair number of people that cleaning did not work.
 

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08 SL #07008 in Nero Noctis
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sounds like you have a dead spot in your pedal as well.

1 400907475A POTENTIOMETER (NEW)....not cheap....

only saying this because you mentioned its worse with your sprint booster off which is just relay telling the ecu to open more of the throttle at less throttle input....SOUNDS like without it, you give 10% dont get 10%, with it you give 10% and it gives you more. when you hear this camming type sound as I mentioned, are you slightly giving the car gas and then it spikes?


finally, when running (put everything on, radio, AC, lights, interior lights) watch your volt meter after about 10 mins when all the fans have kicked in...notice any drops in RPMS? sure fire was to know if to hold a volt tester on the alternator when the car is running (assuming you have a tech, a lift or both).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No sorry, it’s FAR improved with the sprint booster removed.

When the fans kick on no real noticeable drop in rpms. Same idle surge.

I’ll connect a meter and see what happens.
 

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If it was me, I would just rebuild the TBs. Rebuilding these things isnt hard. Dont pay $1050 for it. You cant break it anymore than it already is.

Only problem here is that it sounds like you're throwing parts at it. It doesnt sound like you've really diagnosed the problem as a TB. Have you tried playing with the settings on the sprint booster and tracking how the issue changes? I'm not saying it is or isnt the sprint booster, I'm just saying that the ability to adjust the settings could give you a good diagnostic tool for isolating what causes it. Plug in a data logger and see what else is going on when you're getting the idle hunting problem. Oh, and do you happen to have the sprint booster in the wrong mode? Pretty sure it has auto and manual modes. No clue what the difference is between them. A problem like this has so many variables that you need a real diagnosis. On a car like this you will blow thousands of dollars guessing.

Also, please, dont spend several hours cleaning your TBs. Cars arent that sensitive. Lol. Clean them, but dont spend all that much time on it.

I have found that with my spring booster installed the hunting is worse than if I remove it
You're going to get crucified for this by the jason burtman/sprint booster cult. Just ignore them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
If it was me, I would just rebuild the TBs. Rebuilding these things isnt hard. Dont pay $1050 for it. You cant break it anymore than it already is.

Only problem here is that it sounds like you're throwing parts at it. It doesnt sound like you've really diagnosed the problem as a TB. Have you tried playing with the settings on the sprint booster and tracking how the issue changes? I'm not saying it is or isnt the sprint booster, I'm just saying that the ability to adjust the settings could give you a good diagnostic tool for isolating what causes it. Plug in a data logger and see what else is going on when you're getting the idle hunting problem. Oh, and do you happen to have the sprint booster in the wrong mode? Pretty sure it has auto and manual modes. No clue what the difference is between them. A problem like this has so many variables that you need a real diagnosis. On a car like this you will blow thousands of dollars guessing.

Also, please, dont spend several hours cleaning your TBs. Cars arent that sensitive. Lol. Clean them, but dont spend all that much time on it.



You're going to get crucified for this by the jason burtman/sprint booster cult. Just ignore them.
I agree completely. I'm confident enough to rebuild engines and things. I guess just a slight hesitation because this is now the most expensive car I've wrenched on. I am ordering the rebuilds now.

But I would also agree that it seems like I'm about to throw parts at it, I do plan to verify voltage is smooth throughout the sweep. Have you rebuilt them? I would assume in the same method outlined in the volvo site?

As far as data I've tried to view on my obd readers and such, but it doesn't seem to provide enough of the signals I need to look at / resolution that would be helpful. Ill try again using the torque app maybe.

I do plan to just keep it removed until the issue is resolved. Take one more thing out of the equation.
 

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The only time my car fluctuates RPMs at idle is when the spark plugs need to be replaced. yes it will hunt 100-200 rpm when they are needing to be replaced and seems do drive about fine. The throttle bodies on my 2004 have 65k on them and I have owned the car since it had 9,900 miles so pretty sure they are factory and never replaced. They do need to be cleaned at times but the cleaning for me is to clear up jerkiness at slow speed in first gear.
 

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Don’t know why, but my mind tells me you should check your throttle electrical connector where you plug in the sprint booster. The SB is working just fine— in this case enhancing an otherwise spotty signal making something that’s not quite right even less right. So the question is where is the spotty signal coming from? By chance did that connector get water on it? Any corrosion?
 

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Don’t know why, but my mind tells me you should check your throttle electrical connector where you plug in the sprint booster. The SB is working just fine— in this case enhancing an otherwise spotty signal making something that’s not quite right even less right. So the question is where is the spotty signal coming from? By chance did that connector get water on it? Any corrosion?
POTENTIOMETER

sounds like he has a dead spot on the pedal. The SB is exaggerating this because its sending a diff signal to open the TB;s more with less input and if his input is dead its going to be wacky.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well. You guys might be right! lol. I pulled apart the throttle bodies and checked the voltages on the potentiometers in them. Was hard to tell TBH I think further investigation is needed. But now I'm gonna see if the throttle pedal pot might be bad. No corrosion on the pedal connector that I can see.

I did notice the other day whilst doing diagnostics that it managed to idle well! but not for long. it would come and go no idle hunt at all. Ill see if I can measure the pedal output next.

I was also going to check plugs while i'm in there next time.
 

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