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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Alright guys, at some point your original engine release (and actually door handles) will eventually fatigue and break as they are made from plastic, this will not be an "if" but more of a "when". The design is poor especially on the door handles as over the years many people have unfortunately lifted the heavy door with these pieces of plastic rather than using the padded door rest. The engine release will break form the constant cycling of open and the cable tension on the backside. I believe Lamborghini knew this which is why the Murci. has aluminum for these particular parts.

My car is a 1991.

A few years ago I upgraded my door handles to the more attractive but also much stronger (cast) aluminum Murci handles as my original plastic ones were starting to develop hairline cracks, I left my engine release alone but at the back of my mind I knew I was on borrowed time. Sure enough a few weeks ago the engine release joined the deceased club.

This thread is to help guide you through replacement at home and really is not bad. Be patient and take your time.

Scope:
  • It took me about 4-5 hours maybe longer but I tend to work slower than most and as this was my first time attempting this, I was moving at a snail's pace.
  • Cost: $580 (I recommend Glen from AMH)
  • What I recommend also buying: Two (2) new cables (left and right) that connects the engine release to the respective latches.
  • No special tools required.
  • Difficulty level 3 out of 10
Here is the broken Diablo handle. They break at the pivot point at the rear of the handle (not in picture) and just dangle down, the good news is that you can still open the engine lid \ cover \ bonnet but the handle will dangle down about 1/4" and will be loose.


Step 1: Remove the 3mm counter sunk hex head bolt as seen above. The assembly will now be loose and you will be able to see the broken section.

Step 2: Remove the left and right engine latches, simple as they held in place with a 4mm counter sunk hex head belt.


Removed and store in your favorite yogurt container!


With the top of the latch removed ONLY loosen the top cable by backing out the 7mm bolt out of the metal block (of course both sides - left and right sides), this release any tension on it. I used a 7mm open ended wrench, it worked well but a bit fiddly and go slowly.


You will have to work the "U" section of the latch out of the hole in the metal block holding it in place, until you have them out:


Step 3: This is a bit hair raising but its time to pull the long cables out from the engine compartment. Walk around to the driver's (left) door and pry out the metal pin holding the cable ends using a small flat edge screwdriver from the handle, it may break or crack further but no worries, as you're replacing it anyway, after it pops out then really pull or yank the cables and voila! they will come out, until you have this:

and


Step 4: This is the fiddly part of the project. I carefully dismantled (yikes) my $580 Murci. handle to install the spring steel metal pin (from the Diablo) and transfer the cable ends to it. I did this to give me more working space. To dismantle the Murci. handle requires pressing out the pivot pin, I used my press but if you have a bench mounted vice that will also work. I also use a light machine oil and coat the parts being pressed out, this really helps any binding.

The new Murci. handle:






Notice I used a small 1/4" drive socket for support and to also catch the pin.


Step 5: Transfer the spring steel pin to the new Murci. handle only press it in about 1/2 way so you have room to slide in the cable ends. Again I used my press. Notice I used a small 1/4" drive socket to support the handle, this would prevent any damage during this process. After this you have to also re-press the handle pivot pin and re-install the spring.


And here we are, cables and pin successfully transferred over! Remember do not mix-up the left and right cables! The long cable is for the right side, short cable for left side.






Step 6: Fish the cables back into their housings using a needle nose with a rubber sleeve over the ends to protect the cable and prevent marring. Also do not forget to slide the stainless cable guides back over the cables, these sit against the handle and help direct and align the respect left and right cable. Take your time and work one inch at a time, do not rush this step as you may bend or tweak the cable, which will not be good..be gentle here.



Step 7: Reinstall the left and right latches, this is a little fiddly to get the "U" into the hole in the metal bock. I soaked my latches in a thin weight machine oil for a few hours while I was working to keep everything lubricated for the future. Excuse my grimy fingers.



Step 8: It took me about an hour to adjust the cable tensions until it was just "right". What I mean here is, that we have moved the pivot point on the cables between the Diablo handle and Murci. handle due to the design difference, so the cable tension will be way too tight if you don't adjust the tension and (1) you will over stress the cables and (2) you will not be able to latch the engine lid either. This is all trial and error and will vary from car to car, luckily the tension is adjusted at the latch using a 10mm open ended wrench and threading into the latch alternatively you can also loosen the 7mm bolt holding the cable into the metal block and release some tension that way as well.

Volia!
Done...I think these handles look so much nicer than the Diablo handles. I hope this helps all of you my friends.
I regret not writing more pictorials over the years as I have completed maintenance on my car, but plan to share more informative threads coming up so we can all help each other..
My best - Yasin




The happy patient (taken in Houston at the Lamborghini Festival) :):
 

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Thank you.
Having a press for the pin steps is vital, yes?
Inch by inch installing the cable, patience is a good thing :) , I would not look forward to that step.
Murcie upgrade +1.
Again thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you.
Having a press for the pin steps is vital, yes?
Inch by inch installing the cable, patience is a good thing :) , I would not look forward to that step.
Murcie upgrade +1.
Again thanks.
Kenny - A press or a bench mounted vice will work to press the pins in and out.
Installing the cable inch by inch is not bad just don't rush it, these cables have plastic inner linings or sleeves to help them slide but you have to go slow and not snag them.
You're welcome!
Yasin
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I can see all the pictures, they load just fine...might be your mobile device or browser? Can everyone else see the pictures?
 

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the pins knock out easy without a press, simple tap will do. Great write up, and thank you, I wish i was as thorough as you at writing stuff up. i

the whole set up, and getting that lid hatches to release at the exact same moment is somewhat of a finicky process.
 

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FYI the murcielago door pulls still have a plastic frame and can crack with the stronger aluminum pull. This is an upgrade for the Diablo but you still can have problems with the housing cracking!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
FYI the murcielago door pulls still have a plastic frame and can crack with the stronger aluminum pull. This is an upgrade for the Diablo but you still can have problems with the housing cracking!
True, but the frame is not load bearing..only the pull, which is why the Murci. aluminum handles are considerably stronger than the original plastic Diablo units.
 

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Slow and rusty, that’s a super write up and very helpful though frankly I hope I never need to use it. Question: when you pull the old cables out why not attach a string to them so as to have a string to attach to the new cables and pull them right back through into position?
 

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OK Gents.... A while back I molded the door handles from a 60/Murci handles. I tried to get the handle part CNC in aluminum but the cost was exuberant (setup cost ext ext ext) so the next thought was to make them in tough solid Plastic that would be much stronger then factory and last for decades. Attached you will find the door handles in white but they can be made in any color. The best part is that you dont have to buy the crazy factory price and use the existing door handle housing just swap out the actual handle part with this one. The handle is solid and will last for decades. There is also another person who is building a replica Diablo who reproduced them but not sure what happned to him, he used to sell them on ebay. Anyway message me if you want them and I will make them in (almost) any color. Hope this helps for those folks like me who feel dishing out close to $1800 for a set of 3 door handle is just simply crazy.
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They look fantastic mate. I found 3 aluminium handles a while ago. If I had not, I would be knocking at your door.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
@CCIE - Dang, I wish I knew about your handles before I dished out close to $2,000. That is so cool. What is your price for three?

@DiabloClyde - there is no physical space to tie, tape or fasten a wire to the old cable as the OD of the cable is about the same as the ID of the sheathing plus there is a nylon sleeve in the sheathing that it could get hung up on...I actually looked into this option...so great minds think alike!
 

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i used a straightened out shirt hanger with duct tape fastened to the old cable to thread it through. that said, i had the wheel well out, the battery out, the undertray off, and the oil cooler vent out :)
 

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Interesting, slownrustry and Geno. I was thinking 100 pound test fishing line and duck tape but it sounds like it would be tight at best. You could also get to the cable ends and do an old sailor trick which is an in-line splice. I hope not to need to do this but I suspicion I will have to at one point.

CCIE, what do you charge for those handles?
 

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inline splice would work just fine with grease, i yanked mine out before i thought it would be tough to fish back through. Again, great write up.
 
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