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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Me again! Just working my way through this engine and now have the following codes logged

IMG_1312.jpg

Can someone please help me with;

P0132 and P0134 - Does this refer to the same Lambda sensor? My system has two sensors each side. Is there a way of testing these or just order two new ones for Bank 1?

P1407 - Lamboweb states Cat temp on Cyl 7/12 but generic OBD code states EGR? Would this be cat thermocouple?

P0334 - No info on Lamboweb but generic OBD states knock sensor. Where are these located on the 6.0?

Any help greatly appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Loosing the will to live now! So far Ive changed:

Fuel Filters
Pressure Regulators
Injectors (tested all and replaced 4)
Plugs
Coil Packs
MAP Sensors
Lambda O2 sensors
Tested air temp sensors - Working fine

Fired her up this afternoon and she ran absolutely perfect after I'd replaced the fuel pressure regulators and MAP sensors. Then tried again and L bank CEL showing again.

Now this is a bit of a strange one because when she was running perfectly, the speedo trip meter was working correctly.

Now the CEL is showing, the trip meter digits are throwing a wobbly, flashing with no clear numbers showing?

The only OBD code still showing is 00,00,7fbb (C3fbb) whatever that means!

Any suggestions before I finally admit defeat?
 

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97.0 VT Roadster / 08 Gallardo Spyder
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I don’t think I have heard enough of your symptoms to understand truly what the problem is but allow me to offer a few thoughts. Number one, use your OBD reader to reset your codes. Lamborghinis often times the code will come back on until it is flushed, if you will, from the system. If it comes back on after resetting, change your left and right computers by unplugging the wiring harness and plugging them into the other computer. Then, if the code comes back on we will at least see if it has switched sides and be able to diagnose it a little bit further. Third, your most recent symptom dealing with the odometer leads me to think you have a loose wire or ground issue. That will be very difficult to find but if those are the only areas where you are having a problem, you might hone in on your GFA and the wiring connection itself. For example, I had an issue a few years ago with one of my ECUs only to find out that when I looked at the giant pin connector one of the pins had corrosion on it. I cleaned the green corrosion off and it never returned! Fourth, I had very odd issues with my cat temp sensor once only to find out that the bung plugs in the exhaust system (primary cats I believe?) had loosened and had fallen out. Lastly, you might consider reaching out to Josh at Veloce or Steve at driven Exotics as they might be able to diagnose from afar.

These are amazing cars but they do try our patients at times. Good luck and keep us posted. and pictures Of your car would be nice!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks guys, I won't let it beat me. I'm going to look at the TPS again later today as its now thrown a 'too rich' on both banks and the carter has stopped doing a re-set when the engine is turned off.

However, I'm also beginning to think along the lines of grounding issues. When I drove it out last night in the hope it might settle down (to no avail), the speedo came back to life but then went lala again after some bumps in the roads....maybe Im clutching at straws now?

I was looking at the earth straps last night and they connect between the frame to the cats and then from the cats to the block, all of which are the typical Italian braided copper straps which Ive known to have problems with on other cars.

I'll also do the ECU swap and check of terminals. I've got some Stabilant 22 which is good stuff for connections.

Also, excuse ignorance as Im still learning about these cars, but GFA?? Ive seen it stated in a number of threads!
 

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Hi mate. My two bobs worth. I don’t think it is ground issue. I wonder if the hoses to your maps sensors are correct. Could it be your air valves are not closing? Text me your number please mate. Sometimes it is good to speak to someone. Might jag the problem.
 

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97.0 VT Roadster / 08 Gallardo Spyder
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The GFA is a box the size of a small paperback book immediately behind the odometer and instrument pod. Following the wiring diagram, you will note it controls many of the electronics in the instrument pod and driving controls and it gets signals from the ECUs. When you mentioned the odometer blinking it caused me to think that maybe one of the connections up there is at fault or a ground wire is slightly loose. to my knowledge, it would have nothing to do with your engine running too rich however.

Those copper braided grounds are prone to getting very grimy. They are super simple to remove and clean with a wire brush or replace and when you do obviously clean underneath the screw post. Another obvious one is the battery ground and whatever wiring you have coming off of it though I think you would have many more issues than you described in that case. Easy to check, aside from having to remove your wheel.

There exists the high possibility that these are two different issues, as they appear completely unrelated. One issue being perhaps a loose wire in your instrument pod, a loose wire bumping against the back of your instrument pod when you hit a bump, or GFA that renders jumpy speedometer readings, and the other having solely to do with your engine controls.

Oh, and how could I forget something that you should obviously do: inspect and check each and every fuse! I have found my car, given that it is a roadster, has electronics on fuses that aren’t necessarily labeled so chasing an electronic issue might be on a fuse that you would in your mind think is unrelated.

Sledge this past summer gave me the best advice of all: call Steve’ at driven exotics in Gilroy California. He diagnosed my issue after my having spent weeks on it in less than 30 minutes. Given your situation seems intermittent it would be unlikely but there exist a possibility a fuse is pitted or corroded but still working.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks again chaps. Ive just come in from further investigation works

After checking and setting my TPS at 0.2v it did actually start with no lights showing. Left it running with fingers crossed and it all seemed good.

Switched off and back on, left bank light displayed! :(

So I swapped the ECU's but still only 'L' bank showing which has really thrown me now! Also checked the ECU terminals with a magnifying glass and they all seem ok and the TPS was still set at 0.2 when I checked again

Do you think Steve would mind bearing in mind I won't be using him? I don't like troubling people who I cant give business to!

I'll go out and go through all my fuses and try and find the GFA. Bear in mind its a 6.0 so dash removal is a complete PITA, Im not even sure how they got it in there originally!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Bruce, I'll have a look with my endoscope in the morning. Could really do with the wiring diagrams though
 

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There is also a large ground above the starter (at least there is on a 91).

Regarding Steve, would not hurt to send him an email - he is a pretty good guy and like any business relies on word of mouth.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, I think I might have got to the bottom of this with only the 'L' bank light remaining.....the Carter Motor!

Ive noticed the 3 x reset procedure on shut down is intermittent so started looking at this area but this is where I need some help if possible. Does the carter motor always push the throttle out on start up and then retract even on a warm engine?

Mine seems to move out, adjust the throttle and then retract, no matter if cold or warm

So I adjusted the TPS and got the motor to stay out and voila, the CEL went out, although the engine didn't tick over very nice when it did retract but I can probably fine tune this part.

So my question is, when someone next uses their's, would it be possible to observe the antics of their carter motor of offer any advice on this area?

Thank you in anticipation
 
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