[RobH]

Replacing caps is a good idea. However, if the caps have already blown, there’s a high probably that other elements have been damaged(any ASIC/TTL chips, etc). However, since those caps are super cheap, it’s the best first step to fix/triage any issues and a great preventive maintenance measure.

In high current power supply rectifier circuits this could be the case, but don’t believe they use them in the MED being the fact that it can get +12V DC from the vehicle’s battery (I don’t have, nor have I seen schematics of the MED) so I’m guessing that there wouldn’t be any such circuits.

With that said, I would suspect caps that are “leaky” and that don’t oppose a change in current as fast or consistent as they use to. TTL/FET components will not likely fail due this, but are more likely not have the +VCC levels to maintain a consistent or biased output to perform their function.

 

[AngelOfMurci]

“but are more likely not have the +VCC levels to maintain a consistent or biased output to perform their function.”

bingo!

 

[CCIE]

Awesome post!!!!!
My Diablo 6.0 came with the MED removed. Of course no remote lock/unlock. Another issue I noticed is if I lock my car from the center-console, it immediately unlocks. I cannot lock the Diablo. I am sure the fuel bypass valves/solenoids have been removed but will confirm. I was thinking about getting Viper smartstart alarm installed in my 60. I have it installed in my 1991 Diablo and love the GPS feature. Now my main concern is if there is voltage difference in the output between the MED unit and smartstart brain that could damage my ECU/BCU,
Has anyone installed an aftermarket alarm system in there Diablo 6.0 or Murci?

 

[GSingh]

The unions arrived today from Glen and AMH, and I put them in immediately, and jumpered pins 8 and 18, and...

IT RUNS!

So happy! Now I have a fully working car minus a sirened security system, or working door remotes. I have to use the key in the door to activate the electronic door actuators, which still works fine and opens both doors with one turn of the key. And I have the chip in the key that is paired with the ignition lock that is still a theft protection.

My options are to try to get my original Med repaired, replace it with new or used (used as long as it comes with 2 key fobs, but the PIN isn't critical without the valves), or go aftermarket (I have the same alarm connector on the way from China). In any case, the decision is not a rush because I can drive the car again, and I don’t leave the car unattended anyway.

It was definitely no issue with the hoses reaching without the fuel valves. And the NAPA Gold 3008 fuel filters work great.

I will say it's very hard to find piping adapters that work with the existing plumbing, even online from race shops, so definitely plan on ordering the OEM ones in my pic below if you plan to remove the fuel valves.

Big thanks to all the contributors on this thread! Hopefully this info will help anyone with Med issues.

View attachment 288201

Hey stimpy! Do I need to get these piping adapters if I am using stock fuel filters? Thank you!

 

[Stimpy]

Hey stimpy! Do I need to get these piping adapters if I am using stock fuel filters? Thank you!

The fuel filters are not relevant to the adapters. The adapters are only needed if you want to remove the rather useless, and potential failure causing, fuel solenoids.