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Discussion Starter #642
I have all kind of things going, but more of those, when ready, but during this Corona period I welded second set exhaust mufflers with added catalytic converters.
This is because I really like my exhaust, it not loud and it is light. Issue is that every year I need to change original exhaust in for inspection, when I made this exhaust I thought it would be too loud for inspection, so I welded new converters and swap original exhaust with them in car for few hours. Because this exhaust is surprisingly quiet, so this is what I used for inspection, those are Magnaflow catalytic converters.


So now I cut and re-welded those above to this and these will be my "inspection setup".

I welded random stainless sheet for heatshield, because right side converter is too close to car heat shield. (btw. this is euro car, so only two converters)

THis is my "driving setup"



Here is link to page in this thread when I made those original exhaust if you like to know how those are made:

https://www.lamborghini-talk.com/vbforum/f45/my-diablo-thread-fixing-service-92122/index23.html
 

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Discussion Starter #643
THis is what hapend last season, bolt snapped and shreaded distributor rotor and cap.
...and then I ordered flatbead.

Car stopped both sides not working.
First I thought it could be crankshaft engine position sensor, otherwise both side could not be gone same time.

I got car home, only few kilometers and pulled out rear deck and rear grill and thought I have a look to distributor, because I got correct 750ohm resistance to all postition sensors.

This is what I found:


I have no idea how this can happend, byt I suspect heat sycle have strech bolt and finally snapped.
Distributor cap might work after few contact points are straighten, but for now I make it one of my pensil stand.


I washed distributor and attached cars old rotor in, that is in good condition.
I glued all new bolts, washers and locking washers with semi strong thread glue, also because distributor bolts go to same space with chain and oil.
10Nm is what I used with M6 bolts.


I replaced distributor cap with original Marelli cap.
Here you can see difference between original restored cap and re-production Jaguar cap that is popular.

Thing is re-production caps are crap, they basicly works for driving sesong and then aluminium contact points are too corroded.
Original harware in Marelli cap are brass and those will work much longer without boiling like aluminium. Sad thing is that original marelli caps are very rare and even more expensive and all re-production caps are bad quality and ment to be used with Jaguar XJS V12 1994-1995, and even Jaguar guys are looking good ones, as are twinspark Porsche people...

DO NOT! throw away original brass caps!!
They can be cleaned and usually there are nothing wrong them, maybe little cavity, but replacement is so bad quality, that old but little worn caps are far better.
One in picture right have only few hundred kilometer on it and I change it out from my Ferrari.


So, to fix this issue I desided to make safety wires to hold those bolts.
My first surprice was that upper bolt was actually loose! I had torque them down to 10Nm with new bolts and shims!
It was mention in other thread, but note that distributor cap does have cork gasket, it is same with all Ferrari V8 and V12 models, all these distrubutors caps got same footprint.


So I marked those bolts and drilled holes through, it is easy, regular 8.8 material is soft even for 2mm drill.


Next took longer drill bit and drilled holes through distributor walls. This is not nessesary, but I like idea to have bolts attached to distributor body, you can tie them together if you like.
 

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Discussion Starter #644 (Edited)
All was fine... but then it hapend when I torque bolts back in; distributor wall cracked. This hapend with 10Nm torgue tool.

So what hapend here?
from shim marks it seems that distributor was bolted too tight some point before me, even so much that it caused aluminium to start crush and this caused bolt to get loose. (from rust in bolt it seems that even bolt head have snapped, but not get seperated)
This is issue, there is desing flaw; those bolts are too long and wall section in distributor is too thin, space between correct torque and material strenght is too narrow and if any mechanic out there tightens those bolts "free hand" results will be bad. so I strongly recommend everyone to take close look to this and think if you need to add those sefety wires; remember those caps are something like 1000,- and rotors are 300,-

To fix this I machined out damaged part, making one bolt shorter. Also took little bit out from all bolt surfaces, so bolts would tight corectly and not push wall inward.


then everything together.
I really try to make safetywires go around all bolts, but it did not tighten them, also space for working is limited, so each bolt got only one wire.
 

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Michael, it looks like you are still having trouble with rust in there, no? Are you experiencing moisture buildup? If so you might want to use stainless wire and bolts.
 

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You never cease to amaze me, and I’m sure the rest of us on this forum. Great job and keep up the good work. 👍🏼
 

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Great post, and thank you for the write-up and explanation. I am not brave enough to drill the distributor base, but will certainly wire up the bolts.

How long were those bolts? M6 x?

on your original shots, its amazing to see how much rust is in the distributor. Thats not just from lack of a gasket or no weep holes, someone had to be regularly starting the car for short periods of time without fully warming up?
 

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Do they have noise measurement in Finland?

you are running the same set up as i do for "normal driving" you have two quicksilver silencers on a LOC x-pipe, is that correct? I have quicksilver silencers and x-pipe And you sacrificed the other quicksilver silencers to make cats fit?
 

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Discussion Starter #649
Great post, and thank you for the write-up and explanation. I am not brave enough to drill the distributor base, but will certainly wire up the bolts.

How long were those bolts? M6 x?

on your original shots, its amazing to see how much rust is in the distributor. Thats not just from lack of a gasket or no weep holes, someone had to be regularly starting the car for short periods of time without fully warming up?
Bolts are M6x1.0 length 40mm

That distirbutor is nothing to make couple of holes to it, aluminium is soft and basicly Diablo distributor does nothing, it just keeps bearings, can not be adjusted anyway.

Michael, it looks like you are still having trouble with rust in there, no? Are you experiencing moisture buildup? If so you might want to use stainless wire and bolts.
Well... It's not going away, new bolts from last year are of cource like new, since I have driven very little.
Why that corrosion? It is cars history, where it spend it's life before my ownership. Saudi-Arabia is not good place to have car; hot during day and humid, salty inviorment. It really comes to how car is stored and history that part is unknown for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #650 (Edited)
Next project; VT gauge pod

I have collected all nessesary parts to change early gauge pod to VT pod, mainly because I find original pod really annoying to drive with. It is because top of pod and part of the road are so close together that I constantly seem focus between. Also I find it hard to see obsticle and find pot holes in road.

My car is one last cars to get early pod, only few cars after and it's later one.

I am still planing, how to make swap warning lights around, early ones are incandescent bulbs and later are LED, then there are mix of some warning lights get common positive and ground comes from sensor and some get both. and you have note that LED they need to correcct way.

But here is good pair of picture how early and later pods aree different.
(you can swap pictures to see difference)



THis project is getting on.
I have made second version of light board to replace later "low dash" LED lights that will not work with early cars.
I have bought exactly same wire connectors what early cars have warining lights fitted, idea is to have 100% no-cut version, where you just can plug out this mod.
Aluminium pipe on paper will be alternator light, what will have to have incandescent bulb so alternator will work like it should, but alternator "warning light" will be LED on dash.

Here is high beam blue ligths "on", when Diablo's where made blue LED's where not available att the time, so in every car there is regular incandescent bulb and it is made to make resistance and every later car that bulb is constantly "on" and actually melts plastic housing.
One of most difficult part here is that LED's need polarity be correct and Diablo does have both; switching ground like brake warning lights and switching +12v like light -indicator. Early Diablo does not have GFA -unit.

Turn signal is little bit tricky; Early Diablo does not have arrows showing whitch way turn indicator is blinking, like later Diablo have, early Diablo have both left and right under single "turn signal" warning light.


My plan is to take signal from indicator stalk.
 

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Discussion Starter #651
Today I finished low dash wireloom conversion for early cars.
I was almost able to do it without cutting any wires.
Main issue was to make LED boards for warning lights and actually figure out how + and - comes to warning lights.
285781


Next thing was to figure out how to make get turn indicator arrows to work, because early cars do not have left and right arrows, only one light for both, so two cuts where nessesary. thankfully it only needed to cut out two terminals and add second wire with new one. (I have dismantle an old car and totally stripped all it's wires so I have box full of all kind of color combination wires, nice thing to have if you have to replace wire, you can use original color combinations)
285782


Next was to loose one gauge... later cars do not have ammeter gauge, like early cars have.
Looks horrble and I will add zipties andconnectors to seperate two light boards, but it works and cand be turned back to original just by replacing pod and gauges, all wires are with same connectors as originals.
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Original warninglights where numbered and since they have regular AMP double connectors I just added them dirrectly where bulb holder would be.
One thing I did not wan't to challenge and that was alternator light, it needs 3w bulb and that is what I use, so no LED for alternator.
 

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really good work, are the dash mounting points the same for the early and later dash?

did you wind up pulling the front windshield?
 

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Discussion Starter #653
really good work, are the dash mounting points the same for the early and later dash?
Yes, dashboard is same in both cars, but pod changes. Attachment holes are same, but there are differences;
Later cars do not have that amazing pod hight adjustment, which I plan to attach, kind of best from both models.
I posted pictures earlier:




did you wind up pulling the front windshield?
No, What I did was cut bolts that are front of front of shockabsorbers, they are too long anyway and only thing holding front part of dash.
 

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Nice job Mikael,
How are the two dash pod pieces held together? Can you post a pic please.

I have heard that some people that have done this mod, re-locate the ammeter to where the clock currently is.

Yes, dashboard is same in both cars, but pod changes. Attachment holes are same, but there are differences;
Later cars do not have that amazing pod hight adjustment, which I plan to attach, kind of best from both models.
I posted pictures earlier:





No, What I did was cut bolts that are front of front of shockabsorbers, they are too long anyway and only thing holding front part of dash.
 

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Discussion Starter #657
Nice job Mikael,
How are the two dash pod pieces held together? Can you post a pic please.
There are just rivets holding them together, later style pod is at re-upholstery, so more pictures when they arrive (I do not have any dash in my car right now.) to clarify; I bought used VT-pod, so I have old and new style pod, I did not cut old one, it will be spared.

I have heard that some people that have done this mod, re-locate the ammeter to where the clock currently is.
I would really like to know how those where done, I suspect it was done by adding GFA-unit and going with original LED lights. other way is to just attach incasent bulbs to LED housing, but I did not want to do that because, GFA units are hugely expensive and regular bulbs would melt light housings ment for LED's.
I thing I leave ammeter out, it's kind of 1970's Italian thing to have all kind of gauges in dash, more then better and I don't thing I ever need one.
 
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