Campagnola ar76 are really rare cylinders, nice find. :tleft:
...and then I ordered flatbead.
Car stopped both sides not working.
First I thought it could be crankshaft engine position sensor, otherwise both side could not be gone same time.
I got car home, only few kilometers and pulled out rear deck and rear grill and thought I have a look to distributor, because I got correct 750ohm resistance to all postition sensors.
This is what I found:
I have no idea how this can happend, byt I suspect heat sycle have strech bolt and finally snapped.
Distributor cap might work after few contact points are straighten, but for now I make it one of my pensil stand.
I washed distributor and attached cars old rotor in, that is in good condition.
I glued all new bolts, washers and locking washers with semi strong thread glue, also because distributor bolts go to same space with chain and oil.
10Nm is what I used with M6 bolts.
I replaced distributor cap with original Marelli cap.
Here you can see difference between original restored cap and re-production Jaguar cap that is popular.
Thing is re-production caps are crap, they basicly works for driving sesong and then aluminium contact points are too corroded.
Original harware in Marelli cap are brass and those will work much longer without boiling like aluminium. Sad thing is that original marelli caps are very rare and even more expensive and all re-production caps are bad quality and ment to be used with Jaguar XJS V12 1994-1995, and even Jaguar guys are looking good ones, as are twinspark Porsche people...
DO NOT! throw away original brass caps!!
They can be cleaned and usually there are nothing wrong them, maybe little cavity, but replacement is so bad quality, that old but little worn caps are far better.
One in picture right have only few hundred kilometer on it and I change it out from my Ferrari.
Bolts are M6x1.0 length 40mmGreat post, and thank you for the write-up and explanation. I am not brave enough to drill the distributor base, but will certainly wire up the bolts.
How long were those bolts? M6 x?
on your original shots, its amazing to see how much rust is in the distributor. Thats not just from lack of a gasket or no weep holes, someone had to be regularly starting the car for short periods of time without fully warming up?
Well... It's not going away, new bolts from last year are of cource like new, since I have driven very little.Michael, it looks like you are still having trouble with rust in there, no? Are you experiencing moisture buildup? If so you might want to use stainless wire and bolts.
THis project is getting on.Next project; VT gauge pod
I have collected all nessesary parts to change early gauge pod to VT pod, mainly because I find original pod really annoying to drive with. It is because top of pod and part of the road are so close together that I constantly seem focus between. Also I find it hard to see obsticle and find pot holes in road.
My car is one last cars to get early pod, only few cars after and it's later one.
I am still planing, how to make swap warning lights around, early ones are incandescent bulbs and later are LED, then there are mix of some warning lights get common positive and ground comes from sensor and some get both. and you have note that LED they need to correcct way.
But here is good pair of picture how early and later pods aree different.
(you can swap pictures to see difference)
Yes, dashboard is same in both cars, but pod changes. Attachment holes are same, but there are differences;really good work, are the dash mounting points the same for the early and later dash?
No, What I did was cut bolts that are front of front of shockabsorbers, they are too long anyway and only thing holding front part of dash.did you wind up pulling the front windshield?
Yes, dashboard is same in both cars, but pod changes. Attachment holes are same, but there are differences;
Later cars do not have that amazing pod hight adjustment, which I plan to attach, kind of best from both models.
I posted pictures earlier:
No, What I did was cut bolts that are front of front of shockabsorbers, they are too long anyway and only thing holding front part of dash.
There are just rivets holding them together, later style pod is at re-upholstery, so more pictures when they arrive (I do not have any dash in my car right now.) to clarify; I bought used VT-pod, so I have old and new style pod, I did not cut old one, it will be spared.Nice job Mikael,
How are the two dash pod pieces held together? Can you post a pic please.
I would really like to know how those where done, I suspect it was done by adding GFA-unit and going with original LED lights. other way is to just attach incasent bulbs to LED housing, but I did not want to do that because, GFA units are hugely expensive and regular bulbs would melt light housings ment for LED's.I have heard that some people that have done this mod, re-locate the ammeter to where the clock currently is.