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Discussion Starter #602
mine were shattered just like that.


Are you printing with the VIN number on them?
Resolution of 3D printer is not accurate enaugh, otherwise it would print chassi number also. Chassi number is scanned, and barely visible in result.
I see 3D scanning is only option to have new upper parts as each car got it's chassi number on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #603
3D print isn't smooth, so you need to sand it, here that is done and four coats of flat black rubber coat now drying in this picture.
I drilled holes through for screws and insert strike nuts that are used in wood for replace nuts in original cast, they where epoxy glued in.



Here is all together, steering column shroud is nice solid and does not wobble or rattle, I really like this result.
 

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Looks really nice, Mikael. Question: did you do anything special to the accordion-style shroud just forward of these parts on the steering column? Clean and wipe down or repaint?
 

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Discussion Starter #606
Looks really nice, Mikael. Question: did you do anything special to the accordion-style shroud just forward of these parts on the steering column? Clean and wipe down or repaint?
No, both of them are rubber and can't be painted and there is no reason for it anyway.

Oh, and is that really flat black? It looks satin finish, at least in the picture.
It is "Plasti dip" -type matte black paint, basicly what is in can, is what you get, different manufacturers got different color and finish.
Years ago I spary it also over dash gauge plate and it looks like original. (old photo) maybe it turns out more matte after little time. In those pictures above, paint is just spayed over.
 

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Very nice work, approximately how much was that to scan/print. Mine literally disintegrated when I removed it...

3D printing is certainly a disruptor that stands to significantly benefit us..
 

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Discussion Starter #608
Very nice work, approximately how much was that to scan/print. Mine literally disintegrated when I removed it...

3D printing is certainly a disruptor that stands to significantly benefit us..
I remeber and read your guide for disasemble part out first time.

Scanning and prining was 250,- (+shipping) there where two parts. With scanning file I can go to my local library and print next part there.

3D printing got it's benfits, but I favor original parts, as texture of parts are not there with printing, you need to sand them smooth.
Interesting aspect here is that metal printing is coming cheaper and it is option in future for plastic. There is also carbonfibre reinforced material awailable and who knows what else in future.
 

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Discussion Starter #609
I made 500km trip today to Sportscar meeting, basicly before this I have not done long trips.

Staticstics:

-Consumtion was 14.7liter/100km's, what is with mostly 130km/h highway and 50km city driving.

-ZERO "check engine" lights. After I changed out Saudi-Arabia leded fuel mapping to regular one that reads lamda sensors and this resulted with very good working car.
Main reason for this is correct adjustment for intake air balance; I can not over advertice this:
https://www.lamborghini-talk.com/vbforum/f45/diablo-intake-air-balance-adjustment-210346/


- One issue there was; fuel gauge works oddly, basicly it drops really fast to little bit under half tank, almost "1/3 full" but I was only able to refill 30liters (total capasicy 100liters) So bad guality VDO gauges throws one stone more to wheel.

-Ambient temperature was high +24 celsius through day.
Engine coolant temperature run 85 to 90 celsius and holds there even in city driving.
Oil temperature is around 90 to 110 celsius.
Engine temperature is high for Diablo, but it seems to be how this car works and I have not found any reason for this.
 

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Discussion Starter #612
Thanks,

I did change thermostat to one that got similar temperature range what Diablo got, but... It's got different size valve that closes inner circuit in cooling.
Here I boil both replacement thermostats.



One with higher temperature range is on right in picture and fit's to Diablo dirrectly:
TX 97 79D

One on left is TX 23 75D
It got correct temperature for opening what is on factory thermostat 74C, it does not fit, because surface are is not even in Diablo.


So what I did was simply grind it down and for my surprice, bench grinder even melted stainless steel to make nice lip.


When you take out coolant I always take it out from heater hose, it is much easier and cleaner then trying to take coolant out under radiators like it should be done. (I have done it)
But trying to keep coolant out from middle of engine is tricky part, I placed plastic to prevent this like in this picture.


I did not have time to order new gasgets so I just cut one out from same material what factory gasgets are. You can buy it here in any auto parts store, but you need to know it's got that "wax" feel on it.

Also I am past silicone and try to avoid it as much as I can, because it is very hard to remove and possible "worms" can block engine channels. Also silicone corrodes aluminium, like in pictures you can see how surface is pitted and I removed some to make surface tight again.
I do understand if professionals use silicone, because it "holds tight" in customer car and change for leaks is smaler, but it is wrong
I use Hylamar instead, correct material factory gasgets do work without anything. I even used hylamar with cam covers, that in this car have never got silicone on them, factory did not use silicone and they are dry from oil leaks even today.
 

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Discussion Starter #614
...and then I ordered flatbead.

Car stopped both sides not working.
First I thought it could be crankshaft engine position sensor, otherwise both side could not be gone same time.

I got car home, only few kilometers and pulled out rear deck and rear grill and thought I have a look to distributor, because I got correct 750ohm resistance to all postition sensors.

This is what I found:


I have no idea how this can happend, byt I suspect heat sycle have strech bolt and finally snapped.
 

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Mikael, I’m not following: what bolt is that? Also the entire inside of the housing looks rusted as if it had water for a long time. Was this car under water previously?
 

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Discussion Starter #616
Mikael, I’m not following: what bolt is that? Also the entire inside of the housing looks rusted as if it had water for a long time. Was this car under water previously?
Heh! No, it was not under water.
Distrubutor collects moisture when car cools down. Also these Marelli distributor caps is suppos to be used upright, not vertically, so they are missing ventilation holes. It might be that my car had engine "wire" shield missing, but I do not know for how long.

Bolt is one of four bolts holding distributor itself to engine. You can see washer and bolt head resting on "self" inside distributor. What hapend there; bolt head dropped in and rotor grind it round cap until it got vedge ans destoyd rotor.
 

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wow, but glad it was a semi-easy fix. There is surprising amount of corrosion inside the dizzy.

On a separate topic, I remember you replacing your fuel regulators. Mine are OEM, and I believe they are working correctly, but should I just replace with new ones?
 

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Discussion Starter #618
On a separate topic, I remember you replacing your fuel regulators. Mine are OEM, and I believe they are working correctly, but should I just replace with new ones?
Yes, I think you should.
Original fuel regulators have rubber membrane that will eventually fail. What will follow is that fuel will rush to plenum, through small intake vacuum hose.
This is real issue, because one owner had plenum literally explode to pieces.

This site have one open up:
Untitled Document
BIGTURBO.co.uk - ECU Tuning





Here are two pictures of a disassembled Weber fuel pressure regulator, with the bottom one being a close up of the diaphragm. The problem here is that the material that the diaphragm is constructed from will start to break up with age and become porous. This allows fuel to enter the upper part of the regulator which is directly connected to the inlet manifold. Initially this may not be noticeable, but the mixture will become richer and richer for no apparent reason and will be even worse on idle with a vacuum helping to pull the fuel through. In my case it became so bad that petrol would pour along the pipe and cause a big puddle in the throttle body elbow causing a massively rich smoky idle.


THere are replacemnet regulators they are Weber 2.5bar RP7 -regulators, but I wanted to have modern button style regulator and many Ford Cosworth owners have had issues with these same ragulators and have replace them with aftermarket product made today.


(I bought these and I do not have anything to do with this ebay seller)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kit-Car-Fuel-2-5-bar-Pressure-Regulator-Magneti-Marelli-Inner-Wing-Mount-SILVER/123284896823?hash=item1cb45a3c37:g:oRoAAOSwa~BYVVfm
 

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Belt was making slipping sound when car starts, but more what made me worry was slipping sound when car was warm, I suspected belt itself, but it was idle roller bearing...
So FAG bearing failed, some reason bearing has too tight rolling resistance, I had one other FAG bearing fail in very short time little time ago, different size and after asked around; it is common issue with FAG bearings, so no FAG anymore to my applications...
Bearing started to spin around from it's outer race and distroded alternator/waterpump roller.


So I am joining to club with SKF roller.


For some reason alternator was too far in, it was wrongly shimmed from factortory (this might be my car being one of first cars with newer engine)
I shimmed it correct.


About belts; They are compleatly useless to have with car tool kit, it took me half a day to change belts, no way it can be done side of road and with tools car comes with...
I was thinking the exact same thing.. Like really? WTF no way can you replace those belts on the side of the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #620 (Edited)
Distributor cap might work after few contact points are straighten, but for now I make it one of my pensil stand.


I washed distributor and attached cars old rotor in, that is in good condition.
I glued all new bolts, washers and locking washers with semi strong thread glue, also because distributor bolts go to same space with chain and oil.
10Nm is what I used with M6 bolts.


I replaced distributor cap with original Marelli cap.
Here you can see difference between original restored cap and re-production Jaguar cap that is popular.

Thing is re-production caps are crap, they basicly works for driving sesong and then aluminium contact points are too corroded.
Original harware in Marelli cap are brass and those will work much longer without boiling like aluminium. Sad thing is that original marelli caps are very rare and even more expensive and all re-production caps are bad quality and ment to be used with Jaguar XJS V12 1994-1995, and even Jaguar guys are looking good ones, as are twinspark Porsche people...

DO NOT! throw away original brass caps!!
They can be cleaned and usually there are nothing wrong them, maybe little cavity, but replacement is so bad quality, that old but little worn caps are far better.
One in picture right have only few hundred kilometer on it and I change it out from my Ferrari.
 

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