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So i bought my first Muci knowing the clutch was on its way out, It feels strong still after putting 2k mile on to date, but when i bought this at the begining of the year it was at 6.0 wear. I'm not getting high revs or burnt clutch smell at all. Up and down shifts are good. I think what i'm asking is people experience/ opinions on when to replace it. Is there harm in running it out till it starts slipping? I always read people changing these at 20 or 30% clutch life left and wonder why. Is there something in particular i am missing on a murci clutch that makes it bad to run it out? Also when i change this i was considering going with a good kevlar clutch, is this really a better option for life that anybody has tested with miles, or just a story to get you to go kevlar.

I plan on doing these as well while the clutch is done, the engine mounts, drive shaft bearing, main coolant lines, fuel filters,and valve adjust. Are there any other things to consider doing with the engine out job.


Thanks for the help always appreciated.
 

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I changed my G's manual clutch right after it slipped for the very first time.

I plan on doing the same thing when my AV does the same thing. The clutch I will go with is Sean's at Hitech.

Do any and all related maintenance while there too.
Glad that you were happy with our Kevlar clutch. I think you had it for 6 years, may be 7.
 

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So i bought my first Muci knowing the clutch was on its way out, It feels strong still after putting 2k mile on to date, but when i bought this at the begining of the year it was at 6.0 wear. I'm not getting high revs or burnt clutch smell at all. Up and down shifts are good. I think what i'm asking is people experience/ opinions on when to replace it. Is there harm in running it out till it starts slipping? I always read people changing these at 20 or 30% clutch life left and wonder why. Is there something in particular i am missing on a murci clutch that makes it bad to run it out? Also when i change this i was considering going with a good kevlar clutch, is this really a better option for life that anybody has tested with miles, or just a story to get you to go kevlar.

I plan on doing these as well while the clutch is done, the engine mounts, drive shaft bearing, main coolant lines, fuel filters,and valve adjust. Are there any other things to consider doing with the engine out job.


Thanks for the help always appreciated.
If you have a 6 speed manual, then you can go to zero clutch life but be careful. Sometimes once it goes, it goes and doesn't give you any warning. You might not even be able to get home.

If you have an E-Gear, then you don't want to go to zero. That's because you can damage your E-Gear parts because of extra heat. You should replace the clutch when it gets low.

Some of our customers tell us that we are very conservative with our claims because they are getting more miles than what we claim. We claim that our HT300 will last 300% longer than a stock clutch. Here is a customer of ours who is going to get more than 300%.

 

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It's a good time to swap out the primary pipes if you want aftermarket; 2WD if you want it; screen in oil tank (connection in main line from oil tank to oil pan); spark plugs/coils; rear main seal; accessory belt; all fluids; etc.

I've heard of people running egear to well below 0% with zero issues, but also heard of people having problems under 20%. Really up to you. I've driven 2 Murci's (manual) until the clutch was done: 1 started slipping and I had to limp it to the shop, the other car's exploded on a 2-3 shift (manual is not as violent as e-gear).
 

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Inside the oil sump tank is a screen. It is very unusual for these to have been cleaned out during routine maintenance or major service as it's not the easiest thing in the world to get to. Since they are rarely cleaned, they usually look pretty nasty.

It is much easier to access without the engine in, but still a pain.

If you search part diagrams for p/n: 07M115157 there are good illustrations for its location.

 
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