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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First oil change for us....set the base line.

Single jack up to Jack stands not very difficult. Go left and right on front then raise the back to follow.

Oil filter removal easy.

Oil canister drain, big m34 reducer came out instead of the m18 plug....Removed the under body triangluar cover, cleaned everything up then re-installed the reducer with a bit of teflon around the crush washer and a dab of loctite blue, torque to 40nm. with counter spanner on the goose neck nut.

Oil pain drain plug threads were not in great condition, the front thread in poor condition. Seems to me the last few changes the plug was over tightened.

Dropped the oil pan and took it to a local engine repair shop for TIME SERT installation. Owner Vance seemed confident he can make it like new.

pictures to follow.
 

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great post

I am going through an oil change, the forward plug STRIPPED so I cant wait to see the pictures.
Bought the new plug, but have been worried about causing more damage trying to get the stripped plug out.
So will probably remove the pan to avoid further damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
great post

I am going through an oil change, the forward plug STRIPPED so I cant wait to see the pictures.
Bought the new plug, but have been worried about causing more damage trying to get the stripped plug out.
So will probably remove the pan to avoid further damage.
Yes, my front was the same.

Installing a new plug most likely will not fix the problem as the plug is harder steel and the pan is softer aluminum.

I'm supposed to pick up my pan today.

Here's the before picture.

Front and rear
 

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Yes, my front was the same.

Installing a new plug most likely will not fix the problem as the plug is harder steel and the pan is softer aluminum.

I'm supposed to pick up my pan today.

Here's the before picture.

Front and rear
Thanks for the Pictures.

Any chance you have some pictures of the Pan removal, or any hints would be appreciated. :wave:
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for the Pictures.

Any chance you have some pictures of the Pan removal, or any hints would be appreciated.

Pan removal is straight forward.

I have my car up on jack stands, just enough to let me in on a crawler.

use big adjustable wrench with duct tape on the jaws to open the 36mm oil hoses.

I made a simple cardboard template to keep the m10 pan screws around the perimeter in the same position at installation.

remove all the screws and lower the pan. Careful not to break the paper gasket.

Not much to it,,,,,,

I suggest have the higest quality engine repair shop install the M16x1.5 TIME-SERTS (not helicoils). Make sure they don't recess the TimeSert to allow better plug crush washer sealing.

My local guy did a fine job, I put my pan on the bench, filled it with water to test for leaks. All looks ok.
 

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Thanks a lot for the write up

Planning to give it a go this week.
 

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looks very well done, impressive work.
 

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well I wish I had some good news to report

but the front Hose got me stuck. Will not budge.

next step: more leverage :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well I wish I had some good news to report

but the front Hose got me stuck. Will not budge.

next step: more leverage /vbforum/images_ltalk/smilies/cool.gif
I used a big adjustable with duct tape on the Jaws.

Get a good bite.keep it straight.

You will need a hammer to break it free.
 

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update.

While one oil hose did come lose, the one from the reservoir to the sump, the second hose refused to budge.

so back to plan A: try to remove the oil sump plug.

On a classic Mercedes youtube channel, they showed a method involving a small chisel :eek: to make an indent in the plug followed by hammering on that indent with a large flat head screwdriver anti clockwise.

note: extreme care not to damage pan.

gave the method a try as I am desperate to get the oil changed.

Result was mixed, let me explain: the chisel hammer didn't budge the plug, However I decided to put my impact driver on it after a few hits to see if it had been loosened , and thankfully SUCCESS! it turned and I removed it.

Since the rear plug is stripped I decided to lift the rear of the Murcie as high up as possible to try to get as much old oil out from the forward plug as I could. not sure if that was useful.

Replaced the plug with new one and new ring.
next oil change I will work on the stripped plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
........Since the rear plug is stripped I decided to lift the rear of the Murcie as high up as possible to try to get as much old oil out from the forward plug as I could. not sure if that was useful.

Once I removed the pan I noticed on the casting and the gasket is designed to separate the two half's below the crank, not sure shy maybe to prevent sloshing / bubbles.

The big hoses are very expensive OEM part, take your time.

Notice the hose connection is actually lower than the plug, get a hose off and more oil will come out.

if you had front plug out and rear hose off, you got most if not all of the oil out.

After changing filter we filled up with Rotell T6, 3.875 liters + 9.4 liters + ~1.25=14.525 liters. Now right in the middle of the stick.

Note we removed all hose and pan for over a week so it was bone dry.

DO NOT overfill as it can cause overheating/engine fire.
 
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