I did my own bulb replacements by reaching through the grille underneath and bending the light unit slightly upwards to get a hand behind the bulb holders. To do the job properly without risk of breakage, the wheel and wheelarch liner should be taken off to reach the taillight top mounting screws. Therefore an hour’s labour is realistic.
Just changed my pre-LP tail light this weekend. As the poster above said, Remove the wheel. Then remove the liner, then there's a couple bolts and such holding the light housing in place. It was a pretty easy job, but just takes some time.