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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i am goyng to change the oil in my 78 countach S,
what kind should i use? semisintetic?any suggestion.... :confused:
 

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Take the one which is mentioned in the owners manual.
I suppose it's 10W50 Agip Synt 2000, the nowadays Agip Synt 2000 is 10W40, this works also.
If oil pressure is too low at 90 degrees you can think of using 10W50 of other brands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
raymond said:
Take the one which is mentioned in the owners manual.
I suppose it's 10W50 Agip Synt 2000, the nowadays Agip Synt 2000 is 10W40, this works also.
If oil pressure is too low at 90 degrees you can think of using 10W50 of other brands.
tks raymond,
don't have the owners manual, even if i was told my car is featured in it... :(
so i need a suggest
 

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I have a copy at home and will post this evening...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
raymond said:
I have a copy at home and will post this evening...
wondefull, many many tks raymond
you are really precious as always
:D :wave:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
aehaas said:
I would try the Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40.

Reading this may help you pick an oil:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=000427

aehaas
well. i am not so good in english...but what i understood is:

use 5w-40 in stead of 10w-40 because it is better when the engine is cold(most difficult moment) and the same as warm up as the 10w-40, am i right?
are there any suggest about cahnging from the 10w40-50 to a 5w-40 oil?
PS: my car has a 2 months of inactivity nowadays
 

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Emilio

I heard that Bob Wallace recommends using mineral oils in the older cars (pre QV) so I would steer clear of fully synthetic. Having said that a lot of people use semi synthetic oils - my Silhouette has Shell Helix 10W-40 semi synthetic for example.

Craig
 

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The problem with mineral oils and semi synthetics (especialy for cars not driven everyday) is that the leave alot of gum and carbon deposits behind.

These gums and deposits can cause rings to stick in their lands and valves & guides to wear out prematurely.

JRV
 

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The Owners manual says Agip Sint 2000 (SAE 10w50)
Agip Synt is a synthetic Oil, the nowadays Sint 2000 is 10W40 and can be used as well and it's for sure one of the best available oil in Italy, isn't it Emilio ?

It's rated:
ACEA A3/B3/B4
API SJ/CF; EC
VW 500.00/505.00 (11/92)
MB 229.1
BMW
PORSCHE
FORD

From the Agip-Homepage:
Specifiche Approvazioni Omologazioni
NATO Stock Number Assegnato | CCMC PD2 | MIL-L-46152 D | VW 500.00 | VW 505.00 | BMW | PORSCHE | BLS.22.OL.07 | FORD M2C 9011A | FORD ESE-M2C-153 E | GM 6094 M | MB 229.1 | API CF | CCMC G5 | BMW - SPEZIAL OIL | ACEA A3 | ACEA B3 | ACEA B4 | API SL

http://enterprise.agippetroli.it/alis/docs/Schede/agip/it/IT117.pdf
 

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I drive at the moment Sunoco 10W40, before I used Motorex 10W50, then I used also Agip Sint 10W40.
It really doesn't matter which brand you take as long as it's a new quality oil.
My recommendation is not going under 10W on these old engines, I know Alan suggest 0W and 5W but from my experiences the old bearings are not made for that oil.

Ferrari for example had several engines broken after the switched to a thinner oil on the F355 challenge.
 

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A 0W-40 and a 10W-40 do have the same viscosity at operating temperature. The 0W thickens less on engine shutdown making normal start up easier and there is less wear and tear during the time period where 90 percent of it occurs.

I use 0W-20 Mobil 1 in my Maranello and 0W-30 in my Murcielago. I am now using Red Line brand 5W-20 in my Maybach.

Oil analysis in the Maranello reveals less wear metals than with the recommended Shell Helix Ultra though both are low.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002530#000000

aehaas
 

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Yes, your for sure correct with your modern engines, but 20 years ago the bearing were not as good as nowadays.
I was told by the winner of the F355 Challenge that Ferrari had a bunch of bearing worn out after using the new thinner Shell Helix Oil 0W or 5W, when they switched back to the old oil the engine failures stopped ...
He said the newer oil was as thin that it washed the surface of the bearing away, he has a well reputated free Ferrari Service and prepares many of the older F348, F355 race cars, therefore I think I can believe his experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
raymond said:
I have a copy at home and will post this evening...
raymond, could you please post it as you told yesterday, i'd really like to see if it is my car featured in
tks in advance
 

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What shall I post?
I said I will post which kind of oil is recommended by Lamborghini for your car, that's Agip Sint 2000 10W50...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
may be it is just a misunderstanding,
but i thought you had posted the copy of the S owners manual
 

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emilio said:
may be it is just a misunderstanding,
but i thought you had posted the copy of the S owners manual
Well, that's something I can't do, it's 20 years old but still under copyright of Lamborghini...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
raymond said:
Well, that's something I can't do, it's 20 years old but still under copyright of Lamborghini...
ok raymond, don't worry, there is no problem
i'll send you a PM soon
 

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Never use an oil from an old car manual. Many people look for an SE or SH API rated oil because "that is what my old manual recommends. The engine was designed for this oil".

All modern oils are backwards compatible. You should choose the oil weight your engine requires to get the minimal oil pressure needed at operating temperature. Todays oils are superior in EVERY single way to the older oils of just 5 years ago.

Brand oils are significantly changed. Just because Agip was used then, does not mean it is the best now. At this time I would not use any of their oils.

Cam wear problems in several automotive lines have been traced to cam hardening manufacturing defects and using thicker oils is a Band-Aid fix having limited success.

aehaas
 
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