Good afternoon, i was hoping someone could help me out here. I cant find too much information on the cooling system for my 06 murci roadster. I just got this a few weeks ago its a very clean car with good service records, but i notice seems only on cold starts that i occasionally get a good puff of coolant that blows out right at the top of the water pump at what i think looks like a Banjo fitting coming off of the top. Im going to dye test this tonight to make sure, but one of my questions are, is this correct in my thinking this Banjo fitting looks to be a blow off line that goes to the reservoir tank? Also another question is when your filling this coolant system do you re fill this system through this reservoir tank at the front firewall passenger side? Another question is my coolant appears to be blue so im assuming its the correct for the time period AGIP coolant. I dont have the original manuals that i can resort to. and theres not a lot on the internet that explains on the murci. The gallardo has a ton of info. out there. Well thank you to anyone that can help, i really appreciate it.
Lamborghini Murcielago Water Cooling System issue!
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There should be no leaks anywhere on the system. The banjo fittings you mention have a crush washer top and bottom so those may need to be replaced. I would be careful about just trying to tighten the assembly down hoping for the leak to go away as it can lead to a crack or broken bolt.
The coolant system is filled exclusively via the expansion tank on the passenger side and it does have small return tubes that ensure the system bleeds without the need of any bleed screws. I would strongly urge you to check ALL hoses especially the small ones that make up the bleeding system. They are very affected by heat and can crumble in your fingers even on a perfectly running car (ask me how I know). Also there is a coolant tube that if not replaced for a stronger one will fail at a 100% rate. Here is a video explaining this hose:
Also here is a link to a video explaining the correct fluids for your car including the coolant
The coolant system is filled exclusively via the expansion tank on the passenger side and it does have small return tubes that ensure the system bleeds without the need of any bleed screws. I would strongly urge you to check ALL hoses especially the small ones that make up the bleeding system. They are very affected by heat and can crumble in your fingers even on a perfectly running car (ask me how I know). Also there is a coolant tube that if not replaced for a stronger one will fail at a 100% rate. Here is a video explaining this hose:
Also here is a link to a video explaining the correct fluids for your car including the coolant
Wow!! Great response man i really appreciate this. Is it worth saying its a good idea to just change these small return hoses? Also can most of these hoses be accessed and removed and replace without any kind of crazy engine pulls or anything? I can see most of them pretty much. Thanks again buddy i appreciate it.
Absolutely replace the hoses if you do not have a record on them. Every coolant hose can be replaced with the engine in and if you are handy you can budget 3-4 hours to do the whole job. If you plan on keeping the car change EVERY hose because once the system is drained it is easy to do. There are no real tricks and it is all pretty self-explanatory. Also the hoses from Lamborghini are not at all expensive and, being that they are all metric, it is just easier to buy the hoses from Lambo rather than piece them out from multiple suppliers. The ONLY hose you don't want from Lambo is the one that fails in the video. That one you'll want to source elsewhere.
PS. I would change ALL the hoses but if you are in a pinch at minimum change the small hoses and the one that fails. Those are a must do if you don't have records.
PS. I would change ALL the hoses but if you are in a pinch at minimum change the small hoses and the one that fails. Those are a must do if you don't have records.
Thank you for your info. Its extremely helpful! I do have records showing that the bad hose by the exhaust has been changed last year in the summer and i also inspected it and appears to be newer. Unfortunately it looks like they just put back to OEM hose and stupid little shield instead of upgrading but i guess im good on this for a while. I have to do the clutch soon so ill upgrade then. But back to the cooling, im going to attach 2 pictures. the first being the schematics for the cooling system. are these the all the hoses you would change? or would you go even further and do the hoses in the rear bumper going to the small radiators as well? Also i would like to note on the other photo it looks like i found the leak im having, i dye tested this last night and it seems the be spraying intermittently at high revs from the "water pump sleeve" at the header fitting side hose clamp area. This looks like its a pain in the ass to
![296411]()
![296412]()
change or could it be a bad clamp?. Also this may be a dumb question but where is the best way to drain this system, and when i go to refill im just going to 50/50 the recommended coolant and put this in VIA the tank reservoir? Im assuming that this whole system will not completely drain and i will just keep feeding the tank with coolant until the expansion hold coolant and all the air is out of the system is that correct? Also my coolant is Blue in color so im assuming anything that is comparable to G11 coolant will work? Sorry to beat your ear up about this but i really trust your knowledge and you really seem to know this system well.
Ok lets tackle these issues one at a time:
1. If you plan on doing the clutch soon then I would only replace the thin hoses. They are the only hoses (in addition to the ones that bursts) that from factory are rubber. All of the other hoses are silicone and MUCH stronger and more durable. On the diagram they are parts number 5, 20, and 11. On my car all three would break in half if bent and they should be fully pliable. I got lucky that I found it in the garage and not on the road.
2. With all the other hoses being silicone I would wait until the engine is out to change them. Replace them all so you have records and all of the hoses combined are pretty cheap to buy from Lamborghini. Not worth shopping around.
3. If your leak is coming from the short joiner hose #3 I would first check the clamp to make sure it holds torque. If you can tighten it without the thread 'skipping' then the hose is probably to blame and I would change it. It is not a difficult job just a little time consuming. The key is to remove thermostat housing #9 so you will want to buy hose #3, & O-ring #21, along with new clamps for everything. When you do this job try your best to cover the serpentine belt with a plastic bag. No matter how well drained the system is you will leak coolant on the belt area and it is best to keep the belt dry and free of coolant that can make it slip.
4. Draining the system is best done by two bleed screws one of each are located at the base of each radiator. To access these requires removing the rear wheels and the rear inner wheel liners. Again no big deal just time. Make sure the rad cap is off and the fluid will just flow out nicely.
5. As for the coolant all of the G numbers are a little vague from when I made that video I posted. Please reference the video and it should have the answers because I just can't remember all of the grades and I go to the video to refresh my own memory. If you collect most of your coolant and it is clean you can re-use it and top off the difference with some distilled water. If you are only down a bit you may not need to buy any coolant at all.
I hope this helps.
1. If you plan on doing the clutch soon then I would only replace the thin hoses. They are the only hoses (in addition to the ones that bursts) that from factory are rubber. All of the other hoses are silicone and MUCH stronger and more durable. On the diagram they are parts number 5, 20, and 11. On my car all three would break in half if bent and they should be fully pliable. I got lucky that I found it in the garage and not on the road.
2. With all the other hoses being silicone I would wait until the engine is out to change them. Replace them all so you have records and all of the hoses combined are pretty cheap to buy from Lamborghini. Not worth shopping around.
3. If your leak is coming from the short joiner hose #3 I would first check the clamp to make sure it holds torque. If you can tighten it without the thread 'skipping' then the hose is probably to blame and I would change it. It is not a difficult job just a little time consuming. The key is to remove thermostat housing #9 so you will want to buy hose #3, & O-ring #21, along with new clamps for everything. When you do this job try your best to cover the serpentine belt with a plastic bag. No matter how well drained the system is you will leak coolant on the belt area and it is best to keep the belt dry and free of coolant that can make it slip.
4. Draining the system is best done by two bleed screws one of each are located at the base of each radiator. To access these requires removing the rear wheels and the rear inner wheel liners. Again no big deal just time. Make sure the rad cap is off and the fluid will just flow out nicely.
5. As for the coolant all of the G numbers are a little vague from when I made that video I posted. Please reference the video and it should have the answers because I just can't remember all of the grades and I go to the video to refresh my own memory. If you collect most of your coolant and it is clean you can re-use it and top off the difference with some distilled water. If you are only down a bit you may not need to buy any coolant at all.
I hope this helps.
Absolutely everything your getting back to me on helps extremely much and i really appreciate it. So the clamp seems to be holding torque but it did tighten up so ill see if that made a difference by chance. I think the only question i had before that im still not clear on is when i do re fill the coolant system, am i just adding the 50/50 mix with the proper coolant to as much as it will take since i may not know whats left in the system? i cant see that being a problem but maybe im wrong? whatever the system takes if theres a little too much with this just blow off like any other coolant system. I just thought there may be a weird procedure to the re filling of this system. I know im probably overthinking this but thats why i like to ask someone like you that has wayyy more knowledge about this car than i do. Thanks again i appreciate it
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I bought an electronic PDF users/operators manual for my 06 roadster on eBay. Cost about $20.
There is nothing special about filling the system. With the engine cold remove the coolant cap and start the engine so that the fluid is circulating. If you shine a flashlight in the coolant bottle you will see a horizontal section that sticks out which is your level. Fill coolant until the horizontal section is just covered and then replace the cap.
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