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Hi guys, just new on this forum I am working on Gallardo here 2011 model and have an issue of fuel flap not working. No. 38 fuse 5 amp. Keeps blowing. Fuse location is on passenger side foot well. The fuel flap actuator working fine when connecting directly to the car battery. I don't have any reference diagram here so I am a bit lost tracking where is shorted coming from...no supply at all on connector for actuator. Pin 1 is black and Pin 2 is green / violet.
Note : The center panel switch located on the center dashboard already fit a used part got it online.
Any thoughts on this......Thanks in advance.
 

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2013 Gallardo - Final Edition
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209 Posts
Hi guys, just new on this forum I am working on Gallardo here 2011 model and have an issue of fuel flap not working. No. 38 fuse 5 amp. Keeps blowing. Fuse location is on passenger side foot well. The fuel flap actuator working fine when connecting directly to the car battery. I don't have any reference diagram here so I am a bit lost tracking where is shorted coming from...no supply at all on connector for actuator. Pin 1 is black and Pin 2 is green / violet.
Note : The center panel switch located on the center dashboard already fit a used part got it online.
Any thoughts on this......Thanks in advance.
My 2013 has a 7.5amp fuse (#45, locations vary depending on the year and model). Maybe tha'ts why yours keeps blowing?
 

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There is not a lot of info out there but if you google service manual for the Gallardo there are a few out there. I have a few but do not remember where I got them. I think from one of the forums. It is a big file and its going to take awhile to navigate through them cause its difficult to sort through the menu. More than likely someone put something on wrong and pinched the wire. Good luck.
 

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97.0 Diablo VT Roadster / 08 Gallardo Spyder
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OP, my 08 will not release the fuel flap unless it is in neutral with my foot on the brake. That said, if the fuel flap solenoid is working when direct to battery, and you just replaced the switch in the center tunnel, then the simplest explanation is your switch is bad or you somehow reversed the wires when you reconnected the switch. That said, you may have accidentally pulled a wire loose when you were replacing the old switch which means it is arcing. I would not increase the fuse amperage as that can easily lead to frying your solenoid or the switch, or in the worst case melted wires and a fire.
 

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My guess is the actuator dried out over time, causing high current requirement to actuate, thus blowing the fuse. Quite a few posts have been written about the stuck fuel filler door problem. Once opened, try lubing the actuator with grease/WD40. Mine was stuck (rather embarrassingly) 1 week after I got the car. I drove out of the petrol station only to then realise I could've just opened the convertible top to directly access the fuel flap or the fuel filler cap that way. After searching and reading some posts I decided it's a dried out actuator and lubed it. Haven't had a problem since. You can always tie a pull string to the flap door actuator and leave it outside the flap door for emergencies.
 
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