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2007 Gallardo Spyder
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all.
I`m in the planning phase of turbo`ing my gallardo.

The car is a 07 520.

Some questions:
  • What has to be changed for it to be reliable at 1000whp ? (My plan is rods and pistons)
  • At what point do I need the cylinders to be sleeved ?
  • How mutch power can the crankshaft hadle ?
  • How about headgaskets and bolts ?

Best regards.
Jan Brede from Norway (So UGR or Heffner really is not an option)
 

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Hi Jan!
The connecting rods are definitely a weak point. Cheap sinter metal rods. I’m in the process of replacing them with forged rods from AutoVerdi in Sweden. And when I took apart the engine I found a lot of scratches in the Alusil cylinders. So I’m also putting in sleeves from Westwood. If you have been running the stock catalyst you will probably also have scratched cylinders. So put sleeves in your budget too.
Good luck,
Henrik in Sweden 😊
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Jan!
The connecting rods are definitely a weak point. Cheap sinter metal rods. I’m in the process of replacing them with forged rods from AutoVerdi in Sweden. And when I took apart the engine I found a lot of scratches in the Alusil cylinders. So I’m also putting in sleeves from Westwood. If you have been running the stock catalyst you will probably also have scratched cylinders. So put sleeves in your budget too.
Good luck,
Henrik in Sweden 😊
Thank you Henrik!
What pistons Are you installing ?
 

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Rods, forged.
Pistons? Customized on a per-application basis.
More aggressive cooling, as in some custom coolers for oil and coolant.
A timer to keep oil flowing to turbos a while after shut down.
Not sure about sleeving threshold, but on a "Why not make it proof of later power lust" basis, why not just sleeve it for insurance? It would be nice to use pistons a bit lower in compression and sleeves to allow you some headroom, because generally people don't say, "Well that was fun, I sure want less power now."

Lower than absolute max attainable compression may reduce efficiency on one hand, but it also allows more spark advance on the other hand, and when more boost calls for less spark advance, it is easier to fix than more boost having passed your threshold of compression, requiring new, lower-compression pistons, or thicker head gaskets, which demands carefully adjusting the chain, yes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Rods, forged.
Pistons? Customized on a per-application basis.
More aggressive cooling, as in some custom coolers for oil and coolant.
A timer to keep oil flowing to turbos a while after shut down.
Not sure about sleeving threshold, but on a "Why not make it proof of later power lust" basis, why not just sleeve it for insurance? It would be nice to use pistons a bit lower in compression and sleeves to allow you some headroom, because generally people don't say, "Well that was fun, I sure want less power now."

Lower than absolute max attainable compression may reduce efficiency on one hand, but it also allows more spark advance on the other hand, and when more boost calls for less spark advance, it is easier to fix than more boost having passed your threshold of compression, requiring new, lower-compression pistons, or thicker head gaskets, which demands carefully adjusting the chain, yes?
This is exactly why I am asking :)
Cooling is not a big issue for me, I live in cold Norway, and it’s not by any means going to be race driven. So that will be addressed if the need arises.
looking at other builds, I’m pretty sure sleeving is the way ahead. Forged rods and pistons of cause.
regaring compression I’m not really sure what I want yet, as long as I run “flex fuel” sensor, should not be a problem running stock compression. I know plenty High output raceengines that are running higher than 11:1
 

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The sleeving is more of a thing where he will not need to remove the heads again in the future to do additional power level-ups. Done once, it never needs to be revisited, and it provides one more box to be ticked to provide peace of mind.

Also, Porsche routinely got 1000hp from an ENTIRELY AIR COOLED 180 degree 5L V12. Curious, I am, to see how much more one can get from a liquid-cooled V12. I believe 7800 RPM was the redline, they had only two-valve heads, and mechanical fuel injection.

Regarding cooling: doubling the power output, unless you live in Antarctica, will always demand more cooling. There is a time-distance ratio of heat leaving a local hotspot, and having a cooling system that allows the coolant to get even a few degrees over optimal can result in overheating of the components/spots even if, according to the gauge, the coolant is okay.

It's better to have more cooling than needed. As for "overcooling," that's what thermostats are for. You can thermostat-limit cooling of an oversized set of coolers, but you sure can't miracle-boost cooling on a too-small-for-application cooler.

Too much cooling is like too much money.
You have no idea how much you needed it.
Until you needed it.

And few things are as suddenly, and surprisingly, expensive as these two things:
Not enough cooling, or
not enough money.
 

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Also if not done correctly can cause more harm than good. Unless he’s going big power I wouldn’t recommend them. 1200whp is just fine without sleeves.
 

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As with literally everything, ever, in the entire history of the entire human race, or any race that has ever existed.

Tautological statements do not add weight to an argument.
You should reach out to Darton sleeves and ask why they won’t sleeve a 5.0 block.
 
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