Lamborghini Talk banner
41 - 60 of 167 Posts
I found this headlamp by Scangrip Lighting about 2 years ago that is very helpful when detailing the interior of the car. The interior detailing was always challenging because of the poorly illuminated dark colored interiors that we find in sports cars. It has two levels of brightness and it can be turned on and off either with a button or you can turn the light on and off with a wave of your hand (light sensor). It's rechargeable and has excellent battery life.

I think I want this. I will free my hand from holding my handheld led.
 
That's why I find it handy. It works most effectively for interior detailing or if your detailing where there is poor lighting.
Thanks to you, I have an 600lm MH10 ledlenser on order. Almost can't wait to get it. Should be here tomorrow!

I have an ol energizer headlamp, but it's just not bright enough for use in the car detailing (I think it emits only like 50lm or so for close proximity spot). I sometimes use it when building small electronics.

Will post some pics!
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
Thanks to you, I have an 600lm MH10 ledlenser on order. Almost can't wait to get it. Should be here tomorrow!

I have an ol energizer headlamp, but it's just not bright enough for use in the car detailing (I think it emits only like 50lm or so for close proximity spot). I sometimes use it when building small electronics.

Will post some pics!
Interested in your impressions. I am always looking for helpful car detailing equipment.
 
Interesting suggestion. Are you concerned about producing micro scratches on the rims or are you careful to use minimal pressure? Generally I wait to clean the rims when I am doing a complete wash. Of course, as we all do, I clean the wheels/rims first to completion then going on to wash the rest of the car.
I haven't seen any micro scratches, the key is not to let it get too dirty before changing to a new one.
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
I haven't seen any micro scratches, the key is not to let it get too dirty before changing to a new one.
How long before the corrosive brake dust starts damaging the rims? I read about a month but I am wondering how accurate that is. That's why I love CCBs but it wasn't optioned on the Huracan I bought.
You know Russ I think I am going to try your recommendation. Do you shake it off after each use? How many uses do you get out of each duster?
 
Glad my 580 came with CCB's. I haven't washed the rims in the 19 months I've owned the car aside from hosing down with water. Black Giano's still look clean.

The black rims on my GT3 with steel brakes would get dirty within days of cleaning the rims, I just didn't bother.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
Glad my 580 came with CCB's. I haven't washed the rims in the 19 months I've owned the car aside from hosing down with water. Black Giano's still look clean.

The black rims on my GT3 with steel brakes would get dirty within days of cleaning the rims, I just didn't bother.
Agree CCBs are the way to fly but alas not this time around.
 
How long before the corrosive brake dust starts damaging the rims? I read about a month but I am wondering how accurate that is. That's why I love CCBs but it wasn't optioned on the Huracan I bought.
You know Russ I think I am going to try your recommendation. Do you shake it off after each use? How many uses do you get out of each duster?
I don’t let it build up at all. I do clean the rims after EVERY drive no matter how short. After I micro fiber them I mist the rims with my Detailer and wipe them clean with micro fiber towels. When I had CCBs I never had an issue, I can’t wait to get my new one.
 
@Sakura, your our resident chemist. ;) How corrosive is the brake dust from the Lambo brakes? How long before there would be damage to the rims and paint on the car if the brake dust goes unaddressed?
Haha call me breaking bad Sakura. Brake dust is more or less 90% iron oxide of about mostly 150nm in size (about the same as the smallest asbestos). Iron oxide is used as pigment in paint. This means it can stain unprotected paint surface if left on for long period of time. Most paint these days are sealed and coated so it is harder for it to stains (takes years).

Brake dust on car rims & body will stain if left on for very long period of time (years). But it is safe to say that brake dust does nothing to the car rims & body (other than making them look funny) because most car rims & body paint on modern cars are already sealed, coated & people wash their cars more often than going to church like me.

Pesticides are way more deadly. If you park the car near a plantation when they spray the pesticides, the chemicals will penetrate the coating & stain the paint in less than 24 hours. So it is best to hose down the car once in a while in case some strange chemicals are sticking to the car.

I read something that iron oxide binds with PEG (Polyethylene glycol which is a polymer) which means that we can maybe use our toothpastes with peg to clean brake dust fast 🤣
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
Haha call me breaking bad Sakura. Brake dust is more or less 90% iron oxide of about mostly 150nm in size (about the same as the smallest asbestos). Iron oxide is used as pigment in paint. This means it can stain unprotected paint surface if left on for long period of time. Most paint these days are sealed and coated so it is harder for it to stains (takes years).

Brake dust on car rims & body will stain if left on for very long period of time (years). But it is safe to say that brake dust does nothing to the car rims & body (other than making them look funny) because most car rims & body paint on modern cars are already sealed, coated & people wash their cars more often than going to church like me.

Pesticides are way more deadly. If you park the car near a plantation when they spray the pesticides, the chemicals will penetrate the coating & stain the paint in less than 24 hours. So it is best to hose down the car once in a while in case some strange chemicals are sticking to the car.

I read something that iron oxide binds with PEG (Polyethylene glycol which is a polymer) which means that we can maybe use our toothpastes with peg to clean brake dust fast 🤣
Greatly appreciate the detailed analysis. A dilemma I was having about some of the descriptions I read online, regarding the corrosive nature of the brake dust, is the author(s) never tell you the approximate timeline for the said corrosion to occur. Based upon your description then the 2 to 4 weeks between thorough washes, and I do mean thorough, that would be more than sufficient to offset any potential damage. In addition, we are talking about only driving around 2 to 3 hundred miles between cleanings, and since I never track damage related to brake dust would be unlikely.
BTW, my friend thanks for your contribution to the forum, as always, it's extremely helpful. ;)
 
Greatly appreciate the detailed analysis. A dilemma I was having about some of the descriptions I read online, regarding the corrosive nature of the brake dust, is the author(s) never tell you the approximate timeline for the said corrosion to occur. Based upon your description then the 2 to 4 weeks between thorough washes, and I do mean thorough, that would be more than sufficient to offset any potential damage. In addition, we are talking about only driving around 2 to 3 hundred miles between cleanings, and since I never track damage related to brake dust would be unlikely. BTW, my friend thanks for your contribution to the forum, as always, it's extremely helpful. ;)
Thank you, my friend, for the always classy response. Much appreciated.

Just wanted to add that the inside of Huracan is even tougher because they are made of CF and aluminum combo which give out very good resistance to corrosion. Bare aluminum provides corrosion resistance up to 30 years. And I think most of the aluminum in the Huracan is either powder coated or anodized which adds another 20 years of protection. This means that the car can be driven corrosion-free for 50 years under normal circumstances.

Salt and water will speed up the corrosion process when the coating gets old. Usually it happens on the 15th year mark when you start to see discoloration on the surface (the inside materials are fine, it's just the cosmetic surface). So @Russk is not mad for cleaning the rims after every drive. It is actually a very good practice (y)
 
Here's few photos of the MH10 Ledlenser!

The product is very light and has bright led. It doesn't have an on/off sensor. I can only turn it on/off by pressing a button. Maybe it's not that important during detailing since the battery can last 10 hours straight on max setting and much longer like 20 hours on medium or low setting :eek:

I think its battery length and brightness are the most important features of this product. 10 hours at 600lm are very long. Not many headlamp can do this.

I don't know about its durability. Only a time can tell.

Everything else is just meh...

First, design issue. I'm not particularly fond of the hanging cables outside. Honestly, it feels a bit cheap with all that plastics. Second, price issue. Retail is about $80 to $120. It's quite expensive considering that the product cost about 10 bucks to mass produce: $5 for non-uv 600lm led, $3 for battery, and $2 for cheap plastic casings, cheap rubbers, and cheap cables. It feels like a cheap watch with bright led and fat battery. Third, I got offended with the packaging. Who still use cellophane tapes to secure the inside box? And the cellophane tape has fingerprints too o_O

Using this for car detailing maybe a bit overkill. I think It's more suitable for trekking or for fishing. But I bought this for other reason too. Say if I got a power out during earthquakes, tornadoes, or doomsday at pitched black midnight, I can just pick this up and run to safety while looking cool.


288041


288042


288043
 
Discussion starter · #55 · (Edited)
I will read about the LedLenser. The brightness is hard to compare to my Scangrip from the picture but I see the lumen rating of the LedLenser is 600 verses the Scangrip 160/80 on the high and low settings. The Scangrip is fine for the interior car detailing but not as useful for exterior car detailing. One thing though, the LedLenser is a tad more pricey about 3X the cost of the Scangrip and given I use the Scangrip works for the interior detailing I wonder if it would be worth the additional cost to buy a second headlamp? Let me know how the light performs when doing exterior car detailing.
 
I will read about the LedLenser. The brightness is hard to compare to my Scangrip from the picture but I see the lumen rating of the LedLenser is 600 verses the Scangrip 160/80 on the high and low settings. The Scangrip is fine for the interior car detailing but not as useful for exterior car detailing. One thing though, the LedLenser is a tad more pricey about 3X the cost of the Scangrip and given I use the Scangrip works for the interior detailing I wonder if it would be worth the additional cost to buy a second headlamp? Let me know how the light performs when doing exterior car detailing.
Hi Albert, this is the comparison 600 vs 100 lm. You can see that the MH10 has better focus and is much brighter. The 100 lm is too weak for exterior detailing.

288082



For exterior detailing, this is what shows up with MH10. I can see the dirt hiding in the grilles clearly. I'm getting a detailing q-tips (cotton swabs) for cleaning the grilles.

288083


288084
 
41 - 60 of 167 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top