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2010 LP560-4
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys,

Just for those who are running and OHC steering wheel with LED display, or planning on getting one, here is how I got it wired up and working .

As some of you might be aware we do not have a 12V power supply coming out of the clockspring. There is 6 wires in total, 4 for the airbag and 2 for the Horn and unfortunately the Horn is only 5V and not enough to power up the display on the steering wheel.

I have heard of a few guys re-purposing the Horn wires through the clockspring to produce the power needed and disabling the horn and or creating a new horn button elsewhere. These were not options I was willing to take .

I begun to look into the part number form our Clockspring and the part number is 8E0953541C. I have found Part numbers that are identical except for the last Letter being different and then part numbers starting with the Number 4 rather that 8 (4E0953541A).

Now from my research the clockspring beginning with the number 4 have a different airbag plug and will not work as a direct swap over, where the part number starting with 8 and finishing with anything other than C will give you 6 additional pins and the correct airbag plug.

I ordered part number 8E0953541D from ebay and have been waiting for over a month for the part to arrive. I had already pulled my car apart before learning that I didn’t have 12v in the column and so the car had been off the road while I waited for the part. I got sick of waiting and not driving my car and I was able to get a 4E0953541A clockspring out of an Audi A4 for free.

What I had to do in this scenario was pull apart both clocksprings and remove the connectors and ribbon from my standard clockspring and replace it with the twin ribbons from the A4 clockspring. This is a messy and tedious job and if you don’t have patience or don’t like fiddly things, its best you just get a 8E0953541D clockspring.

With the ribbons replaced, there is some modification you need to do in order to get access to a couple wires to provide 12v and Ground to (You will need to do this with 8E0953541D also). I simply bent 2 of the pins up 90 degrees and then trimmed some of the plastic to allow a plug to be placed over. Once that was in place you need to find a 12v switched power supply, I got this directly from the back of the ignition switch and I picked up a ground from one of the many ground wires in the column. I used a multi-meter to find the pins that are outputting the ground and power on the other side of the clockspring and then had to add 2 additional wires to the plug that connect to the clockspring. I had an additional plug that made it easier to swap over a couple of the pins, however if you get the plug with your new clockspring you will have the additional wires on it already.

From this point I just put everything back together and enjoyed my cool new steering wheel.
Motor vehicle Electric blue Auto part Personal protective equipment Metal
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Hope this helps someone out in the same situation.
 

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2021 Huracan EVO RWD Spyder Verde Themis
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That is really nice!
 

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Great write up thanks.
Could you make a quick video of your steering wheel in action ?
Can you customize when you reach the red leds ?
How do you get the rpm ? Is it with obd ?
Fred.

Envoyé de mon SM-A405FN en utilisant Tapatalk
 

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Looks fantastic!

Can I ask where do you buy this from? A google search takes me to Alibaba...


But Alibaba is more B2B...

Also, wondering if the alcantera can be swapped out for smooth leather?

And, same question as above, re programming of the LED lights.. I assume the "Lamborghini" script on display is as it comes from the supplier?
 

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2010 LP560-4
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Great write up thanks.
Could you make a quick video of your steering wheel in action ?
Can you customize when you reach the red leds ?
How do you get the rpm ? Is it with obd ?
Fred.

Envoyé de mon SM-A405FN en utilisant Tapatalk
Hey Fred, I'm having some issues getting the video up but I will get one uploaded:)

Alot is customisable, the colours of the led, the rpm range, single item or 2 items displayed on the screen and a bunch of other things.

All the details are pulled from the Bluetooth odb2 connector that you plug in. Then all the steering wheel needs is 12v and that's it.

Cheers,
Pete
 

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2010 LP560-4
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Looks fantastic!

Can I ask where do you buy this from? A google search takes me to Alibaba...


But Alibaba is more B2B...

Also, wondering if the alcantera can be swapped out for smooth leather?

And, same question as above, re programming of the LED lights.. I assume the "Lamborghini" script on display is as it comes from the supplier?
Hey Jinster,

I have a guy that arranges it here in Canberra Australia, I believe it gets sent to Singapore but I believe there is a few companies that do them but they all use the OHC module tho.

I had alot of options when creating the steering wheel. Race grips, stitch colour, carbon,alcantara,smooth leather, perforated leather and a bunch of other bits. I selected race grips, carbon top and bottom, perforated leather and white stitch.

The lambo script I selected from the admin menu in the steering wheel, there was the bull icon or script, the script looked much nicer. You could make a custom one and upload it I believe or you could pic anything from the long list of car makes already in there.

Hope that answers your questions.
Cheers,
Pete
 

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I love it man, so will you. But the only thing I regret is the white stich, it suits my car but I'm just so scared of making it dirty.
You don't really have a choice with the stitch if your interior normally has white stitch, it kinda needs to match, right?

I am ordering mine with black leather, black stitch, carbon inserts, and of course the LED. This matches my interior. Let's see how it goes.

You can disable the LED if you are "not feeling it", right? On most days I just want to cruise without fanfare.

And thanks for the post on the clock spring. I ordered the same one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You don't really have a choice with the stitch if your interior normally has white stitch, it kinda needs to match, right?

I am ordering mine with black leather, black stitch, carbon inserts, and of course the LED. This matches my interior. Let's see how it goes.

You can disable the LED if you are "not feeling it", right? On most days I just want to cruise without fanfare.

And thanks for the post on the clock spring. I ordered the same one.
Yeah it was hard to not select white for me, it looks great just makes me paranoid.

I'm sure you can disable the led but I'm not sure you can turn the lcd screen off, not saying you can't I haven't tried tho. I guess if you really want it off you can unplug the odb2 or put a switch on the 12v supply so you can turn it off and on.

Reach out if you get stuck with the clock spring for any reason, happy to help out if I can.

Cheers,
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
This looks awesome but the only thing i noticed is it starts flashing red when your at about 5k RPM i wonder if you can change this so it flashes at around 7800-8000 RPM's instead because we all know we get up their quit easily :)
You can set it at whatever you like, I have it at 5k cos that's where I normally shift when driving normally, if I tracked it I would bump it up.
 

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Yeah it was hard to not select white for me, it looks great just makes me paranoid.

I'm sure you can disable the led but I'm not sure you can turn the lcd screen off, not saying you can't I haven't tried tho. I guess if you really want it off you can unplug the odb2 or put a switch on the 12v supply so you can turn it off and on.

Reach out if you get stuck with the clock spring for any reason, happy to help out if I can.

Cheers,
Pete
Hi Pete. My wheel arrived today.

I have been reading with regards to the clock spring and would appreciate your help please.

1. Is it easy to remove the clock spring itself from the steering column? It looks like it's just clipped in from the 8E0953541D I have in front of me.

2. Without dissecting my current steering column to have a look to compare, this replacement clock spring has this "brown stuff" on the entire circular perimeter on the inside... see photo.. is this normal for all clock springs? It's greasy/wet... I bought the clock spring from a wrecker online.. just want to make this this isn't from having been submerged in brown water somehow...
295882

3. One "socket" on the clock spring appears to have no pins in it... the one on the lower left in my photo.. I can't see any pins in yours either.. this is normal, I take it?

4. In your description and photo, why did you decide to bend those two pins and cut the plastic to let the wires out? Why not just connect to them on the other end as they naturally pin out? Is it because the plug on the body side cannot accommodate two more "hollow pins" for some reason?
295883

5. I take it that there is only one plug on the airbag side primarily for the airbag wires but you used a multimeter to find two pins there that conducted from the two pins on the body side that you wired ground/12V to. How did you add the two additional wires into that airbag harness? Are there "hollow pins" for sale that one can insert into the empty sockets in the existing airbag plug? Do you remember the part numbers for those?

6. The red 12V wire inside the purple surround in your photo, I take it that's the 12V switched source you tapped into? Did you check to see if that's the 12V source going to the airbag which is what this whole new clock spring swap is aimed at avoiding? I am "paranoid" when it comes to detail like that.... lol

7. How long do you suggest this project would take? I have pretty good DIY skills and comprehensive tools. Any tricky time consuming bits?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hi Pete. My wheel arrived today.

I have been reading with regards to the clock spring and would appreciate your help please.

1. Is it easy to remove the clock spring itself from the steering column? It looks like it's just clipped in from the 8E0953541D I have in front of me.

2. Without dissecting my current steering column to have a look to compare, this replacement clock spring has this "brown stuff" on the entire circular perimeter on the inside... see photo.. is this normal for all clock springs? It's greasy/wet... I bought the clock spring from a wrecker online.. just want to make this this isn't from having been submerged in brown water somehow...
View attachment 295882
3. One "socket" on the clock spring appears to have no pins in it... the one on the lower left in my photo.. I can't see any pins in yours either.. this is normal, I take it?

4. In your description and photo, why did you decide to bend those two pins and cut the plastic to let the wires out? Why not just connect to them on the other end as they naturally pin out? Is it because the plug on the body side cannot accommodate two more "hollow pins" for some reason?
View attachment 295883
5. I take it that there is only one plug on the airbag side primarily for the airbag wires but you used a multimeter to find two pins there that conducted from the two pins on the body side that you wired ground/12V to. How did you add the two additional wires into that airbag harness? Are there "hollow pins" for sale that one can insert into the empty sockets in the existing airbag plug? Do you remember the part numbers for those?

6. The red 12V wire inside the purple surround in your photo, I take it that's the 12V switched source you tapped into? Did you check to see if that's the 12V source going to the airbag which is what this whole new clock spring swap is aimed at avoiding? I am "paranoid" when it comes to detail like that.... lol

7. How long do you suggest this project would take? I have pretty good DIY skills and comprehensive tools. Any tricky time consuming bits?
Hey Jinster,

Great to hear you got your wheel!

1. Yep easy to remove the 3 tabs and it pops off after you have take the steering wheel and column surround off.

2. The brown stuff is a grease type compound, that's normal.

3. That's normal I believe other modes have pins there but they are not need for us.

4. The clock spring plugs into the female side of the steering column module, without bending and cutting some plastic you will need to pull the module apart get female pins and run the wires through. Can be done and would be neater but I wanted to be able to reverse this without having to replace any thing but the clockspring.

5. The harness currently has 4pins for the airbag and 2 for the Horn, In the original clock spring you will see only 6 pins and then 6 empty. In the new there will be 12 pins, the bottom row is l the new ribbon on left side. I had a spare harness so I scavenged the 2 wires out of that and put them into the harness. I'm not sure on the part number but any harness fron and audi or vw would and shouldn't cost much from a wrecking yard.

6. The purple surround you see is the back of the ignition switch, the 12v from there won't be going direct to the airbag. The airbag wires don't have 12v coming out of them otherwise I would if looked at using that power for sure lol.

7. If you have all the bits you need I would say it shouldn't take more than a few hours. The trickest part for me was swapping the ribbon from the clockspring out but you don't need to do that. So the second trickiest thing would be bending the pins and cutting the plastic neat. If you spend more time you could probably find nicer supply wires down the steering column than what I used to tap into but that's upto you.

Hope I answered all your questions. Good luck and can't wait to see the finished product! Also, post a pic if the new wheel :)
 
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