Eight slots left!
The clutch works very well in the e-gear equipped cars. Do you trust the largest rebuilder and supplier of OE and bespoke parts for the Graziano gearboxes in the country to make a clutch that works with e-gear? The same company that consulted with Lamborghini on a sequential shift system for a track-only car? Realize they're the exact same clutch/part number depending on year. I literally wouldn't have time to track down where each clutch has gone and find out which one was installed in an e-gear car to be perfectly frank. But we guarantee it'll work with the e-gear cars as well.Tavarish and B is for Build have manual transmission but I have an Egear. Lamborghini dealer told me if I go with an aftermarket clutch to make sure it works with Egear. Can you direct me to a shop that has installed your Egear clutch?
You misread my statement. I said we'd never had a request for a lightweight flywheel for the pre-LP cars which is why we initially weren't offering a flywheel for the pre-LP's. After seeing one, we think we have something that'll work and if it doesn't, we'd refund the customer the cost of the flywheel and pay to have it shipped back.I wasn't going to post anything but we received a lot of emails about the flywheel. I noticed a lot of false statements. You mentioned that you're convinced that Pre-LP and LP flywheels are the same. They are not the same. LP and Pre-LP flywheels are totally different. I'm surprised with your claim because If you have done one Pre-LP and one LP, you would have know that they are different.
If you go too light it can cause a number of drivability and NVH issues.Would there be any downside to having ultra-lightweight flywheel/disks? As in, aluminum? (with appropriate friction surfaces on the 'wheel, such as steel, tungsten, tungsten carbide, whatever your high-tech minds can come up with.)
If you're going with Kevlar (stage 1) you will have modulation and can "ride" the clutch after it's properly broken in, so the drivability is the same as stock. With stage 2, ceramic, the hubs are sprung which reduce a bit of the initial shock on take-up but it'll always have more grab and less modulation than Kevlar. I've driven cars with ceramic puck hubs and it isn't that bad honestly unless you have zero sensitivity in your clutch foot! But if you're not TT and don't have an e-gear, go with Kevlar.Curious how NVH would increase other than at starting from a dead stop. I am willing to tolerate having to be a ballet dancer on the clutch pedal to get it started in order to cut a lot off of clutch's polar moment, but I can't tolerate an on-off switch for a clutch.