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I have an 07 Gallardo. On my first track experience, I had severe brake fade and loss of brakes after about 3 hard laps @ homestead/Miami. I changed to Pagid Track pads, installed Girodisc track rotors, and used Motul 660. Next track day after about 4 hard laps I experienced major brake fade and loss of brakes. Is there any reliable method of brake cooling for the Gallardo to prevent this?
 

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Carbon Cerramic Brakes are needed for hard track use.
I remember seeing several posts on the Huracan threads saying that the guys who tracked their cars switched to steel rotors. Not sure if it was a performance issue with the CCB's or what, but now I'm curious about what the cause of the switch was.

To OP: You've done pad and rotor upgrades so now the only things that come to mind would be to change to an ultra-high temp brake fluid and to swap out the rubber brake lines with braided steel lines. I'm not sure how much else can be done past that apart from adding some sort of vent to channel air over the rotors
 

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I have an LP 550-2 and it has had the same brake issues; even after hard seesions on the road. The issue is a lack of front brake cooling. The simplest soluton is to buy a set of front brake ducts from any Porsche GT car and adapt them onto the front lower A arm. They sit on the front control arm on a Porsche and are fairly simple to adapt with a cutter and some cable ties. The direct a flow of clean cold air onto the front discs. The ducts a cheap.
 

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I remember seeing several posts on the Huracan threads saying that the guys who tracked their cars switched to steel rotors. Not sure if it was a performance issue with the CCB's or what, but now I'm curious about what the cause of the switch was.

To OP: You've done pad and rotor upgrades so now the only things that come to mind would be to change to an ultra-high temp brake fluid and to swap out the rubber brake lines with braided steel lines. I'm not sure how much else can be done past that apart from adding some sort of vent to channel air over the rotors
I stand corrected. All the comments on the forum point to CCB Brakes but it seems that is incorrect?

 

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I stand corrected. All the comments on the forum point to CB Brakes but it seems that is incorrect?

Beats me haha. Its been a while since I've saw the posts so I'd have to look for them if I could find them. I haven't tracked my car yet (our trackday got cancelled due to covid this year) and I'm certainly not a racing expert so I can only weigh in with suggestions I've heard from other forum members. I'm looking forward to getting some track time next year and hopefully don't experience a lot of brake fade
 

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Beats me haha. Its been a while since I've saw the posts so I'd have to look for them if I could find them. I haven't tracked my car yet (our trackday got cancelled due to covid this year) and I'm certainly not a racing expert so I can only weigh in with suggestions I've heard from other forum members. I'm looking forward to getting some track time next year and hopefully don't experience a lot of brake fade
We never stop learning.
 

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You need to flush your brake fluid completely.

This is the best: https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-SRF-...=1&keywords=castrol+srf&qid=1608679142&sr=8-3

Motul 660's wet boiling point is 400 degrees, Castrol SRF is 518 degrees.

That said, overheating that quickly tells me you aren't breaking hard enough, or late enough into the corners. The less time you are on the brake pedal the better, practice makes perfect.
 

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I have an 07 Gallardo. On my first track experience, I had severe brake fade and loss of brakes after about 3 hard laps @ homestead/Miami. I changed to Pagid Track pads, installed Girodisc track rotors, and used Motul 660. Next track day after about 4 hard laps I experienced major brake fade and loss of brakes. Is there any reliable method of brake cooling for the Gallardo to prevent this?
I see this quite a bit and as a racer know your not addressing the real problem first and foremost this system was never intended for the track for a variety of reasons-that's another discussion-fyi the track versions have a completely different brake system. First you are boiling the brake fluid does not matter what kind of pads/rotors. If you are using standard brake fluid that is the root cause, you need one with a dry boiling point above 600F, the oem fluid has a dry boiling point of about 400F will never work on the track, also like mentioned above adjust your driving, if you fried the brakes in just three laps your using way too much braking, missing the braking and turn in points completely. Driving effectively with quick lap times requires a smooth flow rolling on/off the throttle same for the brakes, if your late on entry and slam on the brakes already into the corner you have upset the balance of the car and clearly missed the apex, take it slower build up speed, its all about being smooth on/off power. Yes changing the brake fluid is a hassle, if you plan on more track outings you will have to do it and use a real racing brake fluid not motul 660 (VP Racing 622 used in most track cars)
 

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I addition to the LP-550 I also run and race a 2008/9 Rieter GT3 Gallardo which uses the same brake hardware (but a race ABS system) but has massive cooling ducts directed at the inside of the brake discs. The brakes are awesome (and were designed for endurance racing) and are probably the main strength of the car when running against Porsche Cup cars. The issue on the road cars is cooling. Add some simple air deflectors ( and race brake fluid and pads) as I have stated above and you'll find the brakes more than adequate for track days.
 

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I have an 07 Gallardo. On my first track experience, I had severe brake fade and loss of brakes after about 3 hard laps @ homestead/Miami. I changed to Pagid Track pads, installed Girodisc track rotors, and used Motul 660. Next track day after about 4 hard laps I experienced major brake fade and loss of brakes. Is there any reliable method of brake cooling for the Gallardo to prevent this?
I can offer you some bolt on carbon ceramic front rotors fro your car. I’m local to you, I’ll give you a used set for the track to use at homestead, spend the day beating on them, if you like the ability to use a more aggressive pad, better cooling on the carbon ceramic rotor, then you can buy the used set of rotors for $2k from me, if you don’t, then give me the ccb rotors back no questions asked.

Again, complete bolt on no changes needed for your Gallardo is needed, 15 minute rotor swap per corner. Obviously you need fresh brake fluid and we can discuss if the pagid pads you have will be aggressive enough.
Message me if interested.
 
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