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Discussion Starter #1
Good evening. I know this subject has been covered many times but I have a slightly different situation and dilemma and want to plan ahead now for a winter project

My 6.0 has had the two front hoses disconnected from the shock absorbers and each blanked off. One of my shocks is leaking so I intend to strip them out and get them refurbished anyway, but this is my dilemma. Do I go the whole hog and have them rebuilt to accept the lift pressure and also purchase the 2 hoses and then hope it works?

,My question is, with the two hoses disconnected at present, is there anyway I can test the system to see if all the other elements are functioning as they should be? Any help greatly appreciated.
 

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Diablo 6.0
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Does the car have the correct OEM shocks or did someone replace them with shocks without the hydraulic connection which is why the hoses are not connected? How can they be leaking if they are not connected to the hydraulic system? Are the electronic adjusters working? The system does a self-test on startup. Make sure the error light is not on.

There was a rumor that Lamborghini was going to make more front shocks and restock their warehouse. Until then replacements are very pricey. You can get your shocks rebuilt in the US, not sure about UK.

I don't see a need to test the system with the shocks not attached. It runs off of the power steering system. There's a valve body that controls the lift min/max pressure. I suppose you could hook up a high pressure gauge at the bleeder valve and verify the min/max pressures are to spec. Make sure the gauge can handle the high pressure.
 

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97.0 VT Roadster / 08 Gallardo Spyder
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Falcon sprint, I have not heard that rumor but if you can substantiate it please tell. That would be fantastic as at this point pretty much all Diablo’s front shocks are not functioning properly and either inoperable or rebuilt.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
They are the original shocks with the lower hose connection capped. They are leaking from the top, which I guess is not unusual as one of my other cars had the same issue and had have them rebuilt.

I don't have any error lights with regards the electronic adjusters.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I've made a start on this and will post up my progress as it may prove useful to others. Ive sent the shocks over the John Custer for a rebuild and now I need to tackle the Min/Max pressure switches in the rear and need to sharpen my search skills as I recall there are aftermarket switches for about £40.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Bit of progress. Rigged up the pressure gauge and its holding the 250 psi under normal running, although forgot to take the shot when running.

289708


Then tried to carry out the raise cycles and not much happening. Getting the flashing dash icon but it looks like the pressure switches aren't doing what they should
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ordered new switches from PVL, but they sent the wrong fittings, that being 1/4 rather than 1/8. Also the Max switch male thread is too long, so now have to wait for those to be replaced.Although they did send the correct size dowdy washers!

289709
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Now I need some help if someone is willing :). If someone have their car on ramps, or with the front wheels off, would it be possible to measure the length of the hoses that connect from the bulkhead fitting to the shock absorbers? Both left and right hand side measurements. I hoping not to pay the Lambo tax on these and will get them made up at the local hose shop.

Thank you in anticipation.
 

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97.0 VT Roadster / 08 Gallardo Spyder
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WDA, I guess I’m still a little bit confused as to the function of the lift in the shocks versus the ride adjustment. I had John Custer rebuild all six of my shocks when I bought the car and the front lift system works perfectly. However, in the center tunnel dash is a switch that has four ride “softness” or “stiffness” settings along with an “auto(matic)” and “error” light. The error light blinks constantly- always has even after Custer rebuilt the shocks. However, oddly enough when I am driving I do have some selection ability between 1 2 3 and 4 but nothing I do ever resets the red blinking error light even after following the diagnostic procedure underneath the passenger dashboard.

all that said, do you have a sense that John Custer will rebuild the shock and the result will be that the lift as well as drive adjustment settings will be operable?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Hi Clyde, after much reading, the way I understand it is the ride softness / stiffness selection is electronic and completely separate from the lift system, that being hydraulic. I'm not sure my selection thing works properly anyway, even after trying to do the diagnostic thing with using the switch under the passenger footwell. As I also understand it, a very common failure and repairs unavailable.

All Im looking for from John is the shocks rebuilt using his upgraded seals to allow use of the lift system. My shocks had to be rebuilt anyway as one was badly leaking and Im guessing that's why the previous owner disconnected the pipes from the front bulkhead.
 

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However, in the center tunnel dash is a switch that has four ride “softness” or “stiffness” settings along with an “auto(matic)” and “error” light. The error light blinks constantly- always has even after Custer rebuilt the shocks. However, oddly enough when I am driving I do have some selection ability between 1 2 3 and 4 but nothing I do ever resets the red blinking error light even after following the diagnostic procedure underneath the passenger dashboard.
I had mine rebuilt twice already, first time lasted maybe 3 years, second time so far so good but I will not raise or lower the car just in case. As you describe mine do the exact same thing, it operates perfectly including the suspension settings, just have that error warning light that we could not reset for whatever reason, it is barely noticeable so not a big deal. Good to know it's not just mine ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Bit of progress today. PVL didn't have the 1/8 fittings in stock so went out and got some adaptors. Hooked it all up and I now have the relevant pressures. Don't know how to upload a video, but basically it holds on about 1250psi when raised and drops back to 250psi when lowered

IMG_2686.JPG

Pressure.jpg

Only issue I have is the dash shock light is still blinking at me when lowered. It might be that the front shocks aren't in place and its not registering any resistance on the pressure. Won't know until I get the shocks plumbed back in but fingers crossed. But at least we now know that the PVL pressure switch alternatives do work with regards maintaining the correct pressures.
 

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if the dash light is blinking that might mean the pressure is between the min and max. Did you replace the accumulator? If the car has a bad accumulator the light will blink anytime you drive on a rough road.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Hi Falcon. I’m hoping it’s because the car is still on the ramps without front shocks connected. However, which part is the accumulator, is that the tank which sits at the front?
 

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The accumulator is a grapefruit size ball located near the windshield washer reservoir. It absorbs the pressure shock in the system whenever the wheels hit a bump. When it fails the ride will be rough and the dash light will flash on bumpy roads.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
At last, over 8 weeks stuck in the postal system, so now to time to start re-bushing and spannering :)

IMG_0081.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Lift system now reinstated and functioning correctly.....however!!

The dash shock absorber light is still flashing at me. Ive taken her up the road to see if it would maybe settle down, but its still blinking at me. Pressures were measured at 200psi when down, 1250psi when up. Light flashes at all times, whether up or down and its the slow blink.

Also, Ive set the springs exactly as spec, 145mm to the underside of the wishbones on both sides but the left hand wing is higher than the right by about 10mm.

Any ideas? Maybe air still in the system?
 

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I repaired mine, and I have the blinking error light even though they work perfectly, as long as there are no leaks I wouldn't worry about it.
 
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