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Discussion Starter #1
Well after a year of ownership it finally happened...
I had kind of mentally prepped myself for the eventual egear issue so while loading it up on the flatbed I just made the best of it and shot the breeze with the towtruck guy. Anyway.. Pulled up to an intersection got a beep and the car wouldn't shift into anything at that point. No egear light on the dash but all the gear indicator lights lit up across the board solid white PRNA432 tried reverse, no action, tried pulling both paddles to see if it would reset, no luck. Shut the car off and gave it a few minutes to see if it would magically fix itself but the car wasn't having any of it. dug out my insurance info and called roadside assistance for a ride home.

Points of interest:
Even with key out and car off I would hear the egear pump prime every few minutes for about 1 second as it would if it were sitting there idling.

Even with key off and out of ignition I can hear a very faint almost electronic high pitch sound coming from the engine bay area, not a fuel pump or the egear pump or anything mechanical sounding.

Battery is new

Battery ground was cleaned at terminal and chassis when replaced

Currently just to make sure it's not a battery issue the battery is disconnected and on a charger, I'll hook it back up when it's topped off and see what happens.

Engine starts up fine and no CEL or anything on the dash, I'll run my scanner on it later and see if anything comes up but so far it just seems to have gone bonkers.

Attached is a pic of my display, battery light is on because the car isn't running.

Anybody want to take a stab at this one?
 

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Well after a year of ownership it finally happened...
I had kind of mentally prepped myself for the eventual egear issue so while loading it up on the flatbed I just made the best of it and shot the breeze with the towtruck guy. Anyway.. Pulled up to an intersection got a beep and the car wouldn't shift into anything at that point. No egear light on the dash but all the gear indicator lights lit up across the board solid white PRNA432 tried reverse, no action, tried pulling both paddles to see if it would reset, no luck. Shut the car off and gave it a few minutes to see if it would magically fix itself but the car wasn't having any of it. dug out my insurance info and called roadside assistance for a ride home.

Points of interest:
Even with key out and car off I would hear the egear pump prime every few minutes for about 1 second as it would if it were sitting there idling.

Even with key off and out of ignition I can hear a very faint almost electronic high pitch sound coming from the engine bay area, not a fuel pump or the egear pump or anything mechanical sounding.

Battery is new

Battery ground was cleaned at terminal and chassis when replaced

Currently just to make sure it's not a battery issue the battery is disconnected and on a charger, I'll hook it back up when it's topped off and see what happens.

Engine starts up fine and no CEL or anything on the dash, I'll run my scanner on it later and see if anything comes up but so far it just seems to have gone bonkers.

Attached is a pic of my display, battery light is on because the car isn't running.

Anybody want to take a stab at this one?
Sounds like the accumulator is leaking. If your lucky you just need to replace the accumulator. Not very much to fix. If it’s one of those things that have been happening for a while and your e gear pump was constantly running you could have burnt up the pump. That’s a little more pricey about 2800$ I belive for that company on eBay that rebuilds them. If you get in your g how long does it take for the e gear pump to prime or run. How many seconds. Shouldn’t be longer than about 10. If it’s 20 or 30 that’s too long. Also if it has to prime after every shift that not good either.
 

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There was a method of checking if it’s the accumulator or pump on this forum somewhere. You turn on car and shift thru gears to see how many shift before the pump kicks on or something.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I don't think it's the accumulator, my system primes in 9 seconds and I get two gear changes between priming and the level in my reservoir hasn't changed, if the bladder had collapsed I would expect there to be significantly less fluid in the reservoir but I may go ahead and change it along with the pump motor though just because the car is 12 years old and the accumulator is a consumable item and it's not that big an expense in the grand scheme of things and about the same cost as a ride on the flatbed.

As for the current situation I disconnected the battery last night and left it on the charger until this afternoon. Plugged the battery back up and the pump did its normal priming cycle and the gear indicator was back to normal, also the high pitched electronic sound was gone from the engine compartment. Gears shifted as normal with the engine off but I haven't done much past that. Put the battery back on the charger and I'll mess with it some more tomorrow when I get a little free time.

On a side note, I had noticed lately that my voltage in the car was moving up and down between 13 and 14 volts according to the gauge on the dash although not sure how accurate that is but that issue leads me to think maybe it's the voltage regulator and the car was having low voltage issues. I've got some parts queued up as I was planning on doing some routine maintenance, one of which was a a new belt for the alternator so I ordered a new regulator and will install that while I'm down there along with new plugs and coils, the belt seems to be taking forever for amazon to ship what with the plague and all so I guess my only thought is did disconnecting the battery overnight fix the issue or did charging the battery fix it? Time will tell...
 

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One thing for certain the e gear doesn’t like a low battery. Could very well be the problem. A voltage issue that is. I wouldn’t throw a new pump motor in unless it needed it. The accumulator or pump honestly if it’s just a battery or voltage switch. You can’t just change the accumulator and pump without bleeding the system down and I think a shop will need to do that to get it down properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
pump motor doesn't introduce air into the system and accumulator depending on how the hydraulic circuit is designed looks like it's can be bled upstream of the valve body.
 

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Roger where are you locateD?
 

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Man, I feel for you as I’ve been stranded several times. I had the pump replaced twice, accumulator once, leaks fixed, and also had a smart relay (Scuding) installed to manage pump function. The actuator checked out fine fortunately. I ended up going with a manual conversion, so I have e-gear parts available for sale in the classifieds section, if interested.

Hope you get it all sorted out quickly!
 

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Ok. Wish I was closer. Also Maybe someone else in here that’s posting is closer to help you look things over, if not and if you still can’t figure it out I can send a tech right to you for half the price of any dealer
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok. Wish I was closer. Also Maybe someone else in here that’s posting is closer to help you look things over, if not and if you still can’t figure it out I can send a tech right to you for half the price of any dealer
Thanks for the offer and I'll keep that in mind if it gets to that point.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Minor update, got a little free time today to mess with the car, went ahead and removed all possibility of some kind of ground issue at the battery. Pulled the frunk liner, removed both leads, cleaned bother terminals and connectors, re-pulled the ground cable from the chassis and wire brushed and cleaned the cable end, bolt, and bolt hole, went ahead and added a second chassis ground using some ground cables I had left over from another automotive project so now there two battery grounds on two points of the chassis, hit them all with some terminal anti corrosion goop during assembly thats used on electrical panels and buses and is designed to work on Aluminium, used the mulitmeter to ohm out both ground leads and verified conductivity at multiple locations.

After that I re-verified the fluid level in the Egear reservoir and it's at the exact same location with the system primed as it was a few months ago when I checked it. With the key on engine off I ran it up and down through the gears multiple times and got two shifts before the system re-primes for 1-2 seconds, initial prime was the "typical for me" 9 seconds.

Went ahead and pulled both paddles and did a soft reset on the egear trying to see if it would act up but it performed as expected through everything. Cranked up the engine and let it run a few minutes and again went through R N 1 a few times back and forth and in different orders, then took it up and down the driveway a few times again without issue. Ran a full system scan with my OBDII scanner and it came up with nothing, no stored codes, etc. It's just a bluedriver so I realize it isn't the same as a factory unit and not going to show TCU errors but you work with what you've got.

The only thing I noticed is that after running for a bit my voltage dropped according to my dash and multimeter from 13.8 down to 13 all at once, meaning that it didn't slowly go down it went down like you flipped a switch. Fired up the headlights, AC on full blast, interior lights, stepped on brake pedal and turned on hazard lights to get everything I could pulling a load and it stayed at 12.9~13.0 V even when I increased the RPM. I would have thought that sensing all that load that the regulator would have increased the voltage back up towards its normal 13.8 level but it didn't and it never came back up.

I'll still swap out the voltage regulator this week and then when the weather permits bite the bullet and take it out for a spin, if it geeks out again then so be it, at least I got the number for the tow truck driver last time and he was a pretty cool guy into cars and motorcycles and was extra careful with my wheels and making sure nothing scraped loading it on the flatbed. Worst case is it cost me another $100 in towing then I'll hopefully have something smoking or leaking to reveal what the actual issue is instead of this random spit balling stuff.
 

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Man sorry to hear about your troubles. Intermittent issues are the worst. On your initial description of the problem I thought maybe your throw out bearing had called it quits, but the fact that you’ve gotten it to shift again since puzzles me. If your pump is good, a failed accumulator should still allow you to make a shift, though probably not multiple in succession. If a failed pump, then you wouldn’t hear it prime or it would take forever to prime and sound weak. A failed actuator is still a mystery to me, seems that the symptoms are all over the place from reading other threads. For now more evidence/symptoms of how it is failing would be helpful to pinpoint what’s wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Man sorry to hear about your troubles. Intermittent issues are the worst. On your initial description of the problem I thought maybe your throw out bearing had called it quits, but the fact that you’ve gotten it to shift again since puzzles me. If your pump is good, a failed accumulator should still allow you to make a shift, though probably not multiple in succession. If a failed pump, then you wouldn’t hear it prime or it would take forever to prime and sound weak. A failed actuator is still a mystery to me, seems that the symptoms are all over the place from reading other threads. For now more evidence/symptoms of how it is failing would be helpful to pinpoint what’s wrong.
I'm still leaning towards some kind of electrical/programmatic issue, maybe I'm totally off base but the fact that all kinds of electrical weirdness went on and there were no actual Egear warning lights on the display just the PRNA432 lit up white, constant, non flashing, the egear pump doing the occasional 1-2 sec prime even with the doors closed and the key off and that electronic high pitched sound coming from the engine bay leads me at least for now in that direction. Also reading all the voltage related weirdness that others have experienced it seems a somewhat decent starting place.
 

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electrical gremlins!

a few years ago my Egear TCU died

wouldn't shift into one of the gears anymore; everything else worked

we wrote it off to a bad solder joint, from vibration -- recall: I drive :)

shrug

on the other hand, I drove my original throwout bearing and clutch into the ground

see past threads for details about that fun -- stalling on exit from Concorso and all :)

more shrug

there is only one remedy: be fearless, and drive!
 

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Hope you get it figured out. I have a 2004 e-gear and have owned it since 2008 and it now has 63,XXX miles and never has the car stranded me for any issue.
 

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Hope you get it figured out. I have a 2004 e-gear and have owned it since 2008 and it now has 63,XXX miles and never has the car stranded me for any issue.
There ya go. What's most important getting an idea how the car was treated by previous owners and always good to have lower number of owners. PPI and Lara tells all. I can't say enough GOOD things about Egear. I wanted a gated car. I swore I'd never get anything but a gated Gallardo. Then I figured, I'll just find the exact car I want and convert it later. Well, I fell in love with egear. If you're a true 3 pedal car guy, you'll love egear. My previous owner never had anything but stick cars... The gallardo egear he loved. After I bought it from him he bought a Huracan. He's told me twice he misses his car! The rawness, etc and his Huracan is too easy to drive, etc. I'll agree there as I had one for a bit that a friend lent me. These cars are very special.
 
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