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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The 12:00 position on the gauge is 100 - car always stays slightly under the mark. Today for the first time noticed it going up to about the 1:00 position right next to the first white mark. Once get moving, goes down to the normal 12:00 position. Fans seem OK.

Is this normal? It's starting to get warm down here in FL, in the 80's and I've only had her for 3 months...so I don't know if it's ambiant air or if I may have a cooling problem...

Your comments gentlemen:
 

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If all is OK like John described make a CO leak test.
I hope your head gasket are OK my car si now in garage for changing, on saturday the engine will be out...

Another friend had problems with stuck radiators.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks...

Head gasket and clutch changed by dealer 4 months ago, right before I bought it. Ultimate Motors did the work and they are good.

Well let me ask you guys this and see if there is a connection...

I had a check engine light for a L coolant temp sensor switch, I think it was 9 flashes. Anyway, changed the switch and that's when the increase in temp started.

Sometime a bad switch will cause fans to stay on all the time.

Both fans would run all the time before changing the switch and noticed after changing the switch they don't run as often....

I'll let her warm up today to check both fans..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
BTW - Not to hijack but how do you bleed the system? In the FCar there was a valve, don't see anything here and no mention in work shop manual?

Also - the shop owner broke his hand, so he had a kid that works there part time do the work on changing the swtich. I wonder if the kid forgot to bleed, or could air get into the system while changing the switch?
 

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Frank on my 98 model. Remove wing section first. Take tank cap off. Fire it up, turn heater on high, let warm until both fans come on. Loosen the nuts in pic until coolant squirts out solid, both sides. Retighten. Right JR?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Raymond - that would be too easy *lol.

Yes, had wing off several times, I changed the exhaust a few times myself.

I have a crappy service book.. Looks like on my car the valve is right on top of the fan itself. Not sure if I can get to it by pulling the shrouds off from the rear or if I have to pull wing and heat shield... Going to start on it now and try to sort it out...

The 98 has a great design...I like how easy your's is....

I should take it back to the guy who did the temp swtich, I'm willing to bet that's what caused the problem, that they did not bleed it after putting in the new swtich... If you want anything done right...do it yourself..
 

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I have thermometers on the tube where I can read the correct temp of the water:


Like this I can check in and out temp of the radiators:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
good idea ... the diablo has solid lines rather than tubes... After concours I may do somthing similar to that... I also want to mount fuel pressure gauges on the engine as well :)

Boy this shop book is really bad... it's in many languages and illustrations don't match... funny really.

Shows bleeders on top of radiator and in line on the return tubes!

Where's JR? Has he had his coffee yet? Otherwise I'm just pulling parts off until I strike gold :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Whoops... Hi JR..just missed you.

On early cars (92) is the valve on top under the wing or is it on top of the fan motor (according to shop book). Sorry for the dumb question..and my offical "parts book" has omitted the entire cooling section...

Don't get any better than this...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Speaking of coffee... So had a plumbing prob in the house and roto roter ran a snake and somehow it went up the wrong way and took out a new procelin fixture...they have the water off...every time I need to "go" I have to go out back and water a bush or knock on the neighbors door..

I'm in for one hulla of a day....

OH yeah, there's more... I'm single and my cousin's best freind (who she is trying to set me up with) is flying in from NY tonight to stay at my house for a few days to get some R&R on the beach....
 

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Frank,

they are on top just like in Raymondos Pics.

Raymo gave perfect instructions. If you have a Bleeder Nut on top of the Thermostat Housing you can crack open & bleed some from there also. Make sure the Cap is off right after you start the engine, otherwise the system can't gravity bleed. Insure the tank is sufficiently filled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ltadmin said:
Normally the Temp doesn't exceed 95-100 even here in Texas in the summer time. Try checking coolant level, bleed the cooling system to insure there is No Air trapped in the system and double check both fans.
Well 100 degrees is the 1:00 o'clock position, the first bar to the right of center...this is normal? Mine use to stay pegged at 90 degrees?

BTW - bleed both valves and one got stipped when tightening...crap...time to break out the tap...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Very funny... thanks for the tip, all be it a little late

Good thing they don't make qualudes (sp) anymore... gees what a day. OK tapped and good to go...

Test drive next...
 
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