Lamborghini Talk banner

1 - 20 of 265 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
464 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im quite new to the forum and recently purchased a 93 2wd Diablo. It has some nice upgrades like SV engine deck and mesh style rear grill, SE30 front and rear bumpers and rear spoiler, slightly wider rear wheels and some carbon interior bits. However I plan on doing some refresh work to the car and learning and reading as I go along.

One of the companies Im involved with work solely on vehicle interior re-trimming, and another in custom carbon/Kevlar/FRP work, so along the way I'll be doing some work in these area and will post up the pics as it progresses. Id like to make some carbon intake boxes, the engine bay cover, some interior pieces and even looked at doing the exhaust heats shield too.

I do quite a bit of work on other cars but specialise in NSX refresh, which you can follow here. NSX Refresh

But for now, Im starting small and going through all the little niggly bits that need attention and most important, keeping on top of any mechanical/electrical issues. As this is all new, any and all help is always appreciated. I also like to take plenty of pics as I think showing how things is done, is great to help out other members and hopefully aids in saving them some money on these great cars.

SO!

Decided to do a little bit of inspection work and jot down some stuff Id like to order up an start the restoration process. Some nuts a bolts Id like to replace with new, old pipes just looking a bit tired and a good clean underneath and might wax oil as unlike the NSX, rust will be an issue unless its kept on top off.

So wheel off - Would make a nice coffee table if turned on its rear lol



Wonder will it fit ok, just a bit of an over hang lol





Rear deck removed for servicing mode, I repainted the exhaust heat shield and stuck it back in, but I'm looking into making a carbon/Kevlar version.



Added a Diablo badge



Removed the wheel guards to inspect coolant pipes, brakes alternator coolant hose [takes air from side skirt] this hose is basically done and very brittle, so Ill get that removed and source another from local motor factors

Awful mess in there.


[/quote]
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
464 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Some interior pics, Just finished making the new over mats, so will add those shortly as the ones in the photos are done, then needs a good valet and might looks at some other carbon changes.
Plenty of play space for the wee dude! lol
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
464 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Added the Diablo badge at the rear as the previous owner just had the bull emblem in the middle. Which do you prefer?




 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
464 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Removing the rear lights is a little fiddly job, but with my tiny girl like hands and patience, its not too bad.

Remove the rear deck, very simple job.

Two bolts hold this in place, one on the left and right of the deck and easy to access.





once removed the deck will be free at the front, but safe enough in that position,



Go to the rear of the car and slide the deck out towards the back




Deck fully removed and leave in a safe place, being very careful not to chip it.



This is what retains the deck at the rear, just a slide on pin and why it must be slid off.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
464 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
In order to remove the rear grill there are 3 allen key bolts and 2 socket set type. 3 across the top, the other 2 at either side in behind the grill itself





Once everything is unbolted the grill pops out easy.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
464 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
As I go along, I always like to replace the bolts I removed, back in their original holes/locations, makes life easier when it comes to re-install.

Next is the light surrounds.

removing the covers is simple and what I like to do is leave a little length of screw still in the lamps to very carefully free it from the casing, doesnt require and brute force, gently does it.




Now we can see the insides



Again carefully pull them forwrads to reveal the wiring,



I got hold of the main red cable covering and pulled it forwards to leave more room



If your unsure of the connectors, mark down the orientation of where they go for re-install, or take a pics



Disconnect cables





Repeat process for bothe lights

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
464 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Inside the lamp housings is a rubber grommet,



I pushed this throught and feed the cables back in towards the inside of the car




Again as an added measure, you can mark the cables for each lamp

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
464 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Now the tricky bit, in order to tremove the surrounds there are 4 bolts that hold the black lamp inserts in place, this in turn hold the surrounds in place.

You can just see some of the bolts here



So remove the rad rear rad grills, 2 screws and then it slide up and out, careful not to scratch the car





Only method I could see without any major stripping was to put the 10mm spanner up to the bolts from the rear

You can just about make out the spanner around the farthest away bolt


 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
464 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Once the bolts get a bit free, I just juggled between squeezing my hand in there to undo the bolts and using the spanner from underneath. A good idea is to put a towel down so when the bolts and washers fall out, they will land on the towel without bouncing around and getting lost on the floor.

With the bolts free the black lamps inners come free





The remove the covers




And thats it! Repaet process for the other side




All ready to head to the bodyshop now for a flat/matt black spray job.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
464 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
While the grill and lamp surrounds are off for respray, I decided to move on and check the air filters, Not as easy as modern day vehicles but nothing complicated either.

Early cars are slightly different to the models with the engine bay covers and I believe there is a small write up on those models anyway.

So the filter housing



Start be removing the flexi pipe, 2 large hose clips at either end then remove the hose out of your way






Next undo the the black rubber pipe, again just a small hose clip



at the upper end of the air box box is another large flexi pipe with a hose clips, you only need to loosen the one that goes into the air box




There are 3 nuts that hold the box in place, 2 at the rear and one at the side closest the engine




One the 3 bolts are free carefully move the box up and out, I put down a shop towel so not as to damage anything, dont force it too quickly as there is one more hose to free.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
464 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The last hose, [note: this hose was only on this air box, the air box on the other side does not have this hose]



You can now lift the complete unit out to work on, its absolutely pointless trying to remove the 8 bolts to open the lid while its still in the engine bay.
So the box and the bolts




Lid off and filter look ok for a few more miles.





So basically replace everything in reverse, there is absolutely no need to over torque the bolts on the air box lid, the box is just made of FRP and I dont think its overally strong, so gently does it.

REPEAT PROCESS FOR OPPOSITE SIDE.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
464 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
As my car had the new Murcielago clutch upgrade, I wanted to take a look at the slave and master cylinders. The slave cylinder was brand new and I could see this down through the engine bay, it also had the braided hose upgrade, so all that was fine. [Sorry didnt take pics, but will return to this again soon]

However, my inspection of the master cylinder was showing the tell tale signs of imminent failure, in the pics below you will see the fluid is running down the fire wall, its basically seeping from the the pushrod which means the seals are done.



I pulled back the runner boot for a better look,




I have new patten part master cylinder on the shelf, so will install that in the next day or two and compare it to the OEM. [will update with pics soon]
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
464 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
While inspecting the master cylinder I noticed the steering shaft boot had perished and this leave the cabin open to the elements, so Ive a new one on order and will replace that and update too.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
464 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The accelerator pedal was looking bad, and I didnt want to remove it to paint at the moment. So I decided to use another method



Pedal housing removed



I have some matt black vinyl wrap, took measurements of the pedal and cut and piece to suit




Close up the pedal had a few rough spots that would show as lumps behind the vinyl,



so a quick sand to smooth it off




Wipe the pedal down and then apply the vinyl

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
464 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
with a heat gun, I then lightly heathed the vinyl so Im able to fold it round the sides and back of the pedal and remove any air bubbles, I then re installed the pedal housing and used 3 new black bolts as apposed to the silly looking silver ones, after a quick wipe down and hoover it already looks much better






 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
464 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Beautiful day here in Ireland, so I like to make the most of it, not often we seen 20+C here lol

In preparation to replace the master cylinder, Diablo needs to be raised/Jacked up as I need access to slave cylinder to bleed the system at the final stages.

There are many methods to jacking the car and use of the jack stands, I checked the workshop manual to gauge these point too, but decided to go a different route.

So with the aid of my trusty ramps, I reverse the car up. I have plenty of clearance at the front too.




I use a good 3 ton jack and rubber compounded support



At the side of the car are specific jacking points, they are the little raised square shapes



I jack the car up high enough for front wheel clearence, and then place another ramp in reverse position under that wheel. I also keep axle stands underneath for safety, just at this point.




Very slowly release the jack and let the wheels easy down onto the front and rear ramps.




REPEAT THE PROCESS FOR THE OPPOSITE SIDE


After all 4 wheels are on the ramps, I take the jack to the rear of the car and raise it again to add jack stands at sides [using jacking points]



Car on all 4 ramps, level and very safe.


 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
464 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Please remember, i do all this work at my own risk -

if you choose to do the same - it will be at "your own" risk and i cannot be held accountable for any accident that may occur


i think this is and should be fairly common knowledge anyway.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
464 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
In order to replace the clutch master, the panel in the trunk needs to be removed, some of the bolts on mine were replace with easy twist lock/unlock type which are quite handy, but there are still 2 allen bolts to remove







Nothing too complicated here, just push the washer bottle through




I then gently laid the panel on its face which fitted snuggly in the trunk

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
464 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The clutch master is tucked far back




Only one pipe goes into the unit



Remove the cap followed by a small mesh filter that sits inside the plastic container




The pieces removed



Place some old rags/towls or similar below the master cylinder, please remember clutch fluid can damage paint and other items if left to penetrate, so wipe up any spillage right away.



I use a sealey plunger and long tube to suck out as much old fluid as I can


 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
464 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Once you get as much out as possible, its time to loosen the metal clutch line, carefully loosen it and pull it out to one side, there is no need to bend it as there is enough free flex to move it away.


 
1 - 20 of 265 Posts
Top