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Discussion Starter · #341 ·
There really is no mystery to taking the dash out, just take your time and find all the bolts. The hardest part is getting to the piece closest to the windshield. It is definately put in before the windshield is installed. There are three 10mm bolts holding it in. one in the middle is easily accesible from the front. The other two are located by removing the forward fiberglass wheel well, the bolts are right above the shock tower. The problem is the threads are too long to push the dash out, so i buzzed off a few mm from the threads, just enough to push out. There remains plenty of thread to reinstall. I did this on my other diablo as well.

you can see the shrunken leather that needs to be repaired.

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Geno, that is really good to know for future. Would you kindly post a few closer pictures of the inside of the windshield from basically where the dashboard “connects” to it? Specifically, the aluminum surround or track that the glass lays in I’m trying to determine if that can be removed from the exterior or if that needs to be removed from the interior.
 

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Discussion Starter · #345 ·
Geno, that is really good to know for future. Would you kindly post a few closer pictures of the inside of the windshield from basically where the dashboard “connects” to it? Specifically, the aluminum surround or track that the glass lays in I’m trying to determine if that can be removed from the exterior or if that needs to be removed from the interior.
not sure what you are referring to? the aluminum track on the outside of window. Here is a shot of how the windshield dies into the dash - nothing really there to see. That slotted hole is for the bolt on the forward most trim piece to go through.

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Discussion Starter · #346 · (Edited)
This car had the following aftermarket systems installed:
  • radar detector
  • central door locking and security
  • anti-theft

All wired into the car like a virus. the anti theft system has two alarm horns, plunger on the engine deck lid, sensors on the door switches, movement detector. Its a really good installation, i couldnt not tell some of it from OEM - but removed it all today. Its going to be a long process to restore the wiring and get everthing working.

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Discussion Starter · #347 ·
The main problem i have now, is that there is an anti-theft cut-off device that is wired into the fuel pump relay near the LIE.

Can someone take a picture of the back of the relay so i can see what the right wires are coming out of the relay?

(the two big red wires go into the shutoff device, i think thats what it is anyway).

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This car had the following aftermarket systems installed:
  • radar jammer
  • central door locking and security
  • anti-theft

All wired into the car like a virus. the anti theft system has two alarm horns, plunger on the engine deck lid, sensors on the door switches, movement detector. Its a really good installation, i couldnt not tell some of it from OEM - but removed it all today. Its going to be a long process to restore the wiring and get everthing working.

View attachment 304965

View attachment 304966
Hankering for some spaghetti tonight!
 

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97.0 Diablo VT Roadster / 08 Gallardo Spyder
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not sure what you are referring to? the aluminum track on the outside of window. Here is a shot of how the windshield dies into the dash - nothing really there to see. That slotted hole is for the bolt on the forward most trim piece to go through.

View attachment 304964
Thank you, Geno. You confirmed my suspicion that that aluminum piece comes out the exterior not from the interior. Love all the extra work you’re doing on the dash and interior. Good luck with it.
 

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Does this help? My car is still disassembled so it’s just a bunch of wires there. It looks like you have a relay piggybacked off of this relay. Is that for the fuel pumps? I thought they were in the engine compartment relay box.
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Discussion Starter · #352 ·
Thank you Seth, and Jay for sending photos. It was a cut off relay for teh fuel pumps, and now its gone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #354 · (Edited)
The time-sert product to fix the stripped oil drain plug worked really well.

Amazon.com: Time-Sert 2215C M22 x 1.5 Drain Pan Thread Repair Kit : Automotive

$500, but very well engineered and came in a brief case. The alternative would be a new oil pan.

  • you first auger out the old threads with a special bit and the bit is engineered to counter sink a lip in the oil pan to accept the edge of the insert
  • then you tap new threads with the supplied tap
  • then thread the inserts in, and use another special tool to screw it in and flare the ends so it doesnt pull out.

Pretty hard to screw up.

it didnt call for any sealer, but i put some thread sealant in there anyway.

the kit comes with 5 inserts, and bits are super high quality, so I going to try to sell it on ebay for $400!

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Discussion Starter · #355 ·
For the 4 coolant hoses (the two on the long run, the short heater hose, and the short hose to the block) I decided to just go with standard heater hose, vs braided. Mostly due to cost, but also they are not visible.

I also replaced the vacuum hose taking pressure to the front A/C control manifolds.

cost was $60 for materials vs god knows how much for braided.

Someone has already replaced the heater control valve

i have no idea how you would replace the short hose the heater core without taking the dash apart. Even with the dash out i struggle and chewed my hands to pieces trying to get the hose clamp off. The bolt head for the clamp was precisely in the wrong location. I almost pulled the heater core and mixer box out but that looked like a frightening task so i sacrificed my fingers and hards and worked the clamp off.

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Discussion Starter · #356 · (Edited)
and there is mouse sh^t everywhere. I am cleaning everything.

Thank god, they only chewed wires are for the "mouse-track" seat belts, which is sort of fitting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #360 ·
This is what the oil breather tank looks like on the very early cars. There is no tank in the valley, this is it, tucked away behind the passenger side airbox.

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