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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there Lambo fans,

i own a yellow Gallardo LP 500 Coupe with less than 20.000 mls on it and have a "weird" problem with my exhaust (flaps) system. As i learned with some earlier posts, a lot of the Gallardo owners upgrade their exhausts from standard LP 500 to the LP520 one - and also mine was upgraded that way before i bought it.

My car came with some smaller problems, sorted out most of them but there still remains something that bugs me ;)

The flaps are always open, as they should be as a default mode in the construction. The hoses are connected correctly and the solenoid valve is also connected. First, the contacts were oxidated but i cleaned them carefully.

As I learned, the computer-activated solenoid valve opens up below around 3.2K RPM - normally. My valve just stays closed and it is really loud from the beginning and i want to change it to its "original state" - working as it was intended to be?! I want the car to be quiet when starting up, but i do not know if that IS the original state.

I already checked these things:
  • Fuse No. 9 in the rear fuse box behind the seats - working fine
  • Vacuum from the "vacuum hose" - works fine
  • Flaps - work when i connect the hoses bypassing the valve - they close immediately
  • Valve itself - applied 12V DC via power adapter - opens immediately, closes when power is disconnected
Then i noticed that the cable with the connector that should give power to the valve does not apply 12V DC when the car is running so i assume that there is the problem.

My questions are:
  • Are there any fuses to be taken care of?
  • Do you think the power cable may be the fault? e.g. disconnected (from where?) or damaged?
  • Could there be any other issues like a faulity signal from the ECU or a bad computer part i dont know yet?
  • I searched a lot but did not find a solution / the same issue. One forum member said that the valve closes after 60-120seconds, the computer allows a loud cold-start and it only switches the valve while driving and i did not wait that long. Maybe I am doing it wrong? Could just not imagine that the car starts soo loud and then quiets up ;)
Would appreciate help so much. I love this forum and would be so happy to give back when i am deeper into the topic. Will also be happy to provice pics and documentation when fixed!

Best regards!
 

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I have another way to fix this that I think you will like much better. I'm a dealer for Capristo and this will work for you car. Also, my price will be much better :) Call/text me at 717-319-2100

 

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Hi there Lambo fans,

i own a yellow Gallardo LP 500 Coupe with less than 20.000 mls on it and have a "weird" problem with my exhaust (flaps) system. As i learned with some earlier posts, a lot of the Gallardo owners upgrade their exhausts from standard LP 500 to the LP520 one - and also mine was upgraded that way before i bought it.

My car came with some smaller problems, sorted out most of them but there still remains something that bugs me ;)

The flaps are always open, as they should be as a default mode in the construction. The hoses are connected correctly and the solenoid valve is also connected. First, the contacts were oxidated but i cleaned them carefully.

As I learned, the computer-activated solenoid valve opens up below around 3.2K RPM - normally. My valve just stays closed and it is really loud from the beginning and i want to change it to its "original state" - working as it was intended to be?! I want the car to be quiet when starting up, but i do not know if that IS the original state.

I already checked these things:
  • Fuse No. 9 in the rear fuse box behind the seats - working fine
  • Vacuum from the "vacuum hose" - works fine
  • Flaps - work when i connect the hoses bypassing the valve - they close immediately
  • Valve itself - applied 12V DC via power adapter - opens immediately, closes when power is disconnected
Then i noticed that the cable with the connector that should give power to the valve does not apply 12V DC when the car is running so i assume that there is the problem.

My questions are:
  • Are there any fuses to be taken care of?
  • Do you think the power cable may be the fault? e.g. disconnected (from where?) or damaged?
  • Could there be any other issues like a faulity signal from the ECU or a bad computer part i dont know yet?
  • I searched a lot but did not find a solution / the same issue. One forum member said that the valve closes after 60-120seconds, the computer allows a loud cold-start and it only switches the valve while driving and i did not wait that long. Maybe I am doing it wrong? Could just not imagine that the car starts soo loud and then quiets up ;)
Would appreciate help so much. I love this forum and would be so happy to give back when i am deeper into the topic. Will also be happy to provice pics and documentation when fixed!

Best regards!
Mine had corrosion inside the hard lines going from the "T" after the solenoid and before the actuators, I ran some piano wire in and out of it with a drill and cleaned it out and then they worked fine. I diagnosed it by hooking a handheld vacuum pump up to each actuator diaphragm and then checked for function but when I hooked the pump up to the hard lines it would pull vacuum but the flaps didn't move.

Pipe i'm referring to is part number 16 in this diagram..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi all,
thanks so much for your ideas! @Jason B sounds interesting, but want to find out first if something is broken ;) @Roger McCormick Thanks, too, i think that is not the prob here, because i already had tested the flaps system and it works fine when i just skip the valve and it even closes immediately when holding the vaccuum hoses (before and after the valve) together.

I am sure that it is the signal from the ECU (12V DC) to the valve that is missing from the start. One idea: Cable is open circuit or ECU fault, or a fuse i did not check ;)

Any other ideas? Should i search for a hidden manual switch i did not find yet? ;)

Best wishes!
 

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I believe in my car (LP570-4 Superleggera) indeed, the cold start has the valves open and then they close after a short idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi @johnr265 Thanks for your reply. Indeed i think that the newer Gallardos dont handle it the way my 2004 coupe does. I did a cold start and ran it for about 2mins to see that the valves stay open all the time. It was really loud, one idea i had was that the LP 500 OEM exhaust is really silent, even if the flaps are open, there is nearly no difference. What i will try today is to continue searching for the missing signal (e.g. hidden switch or broken cable, contacts,...), fuses or letting the car run and heat up for up to 10mins to make sure i waited long enough.

Lamborghini dealer technician said he is sure they will find it because they know every mod the owners did in the past to have the flaps open all the time - but it was clear he wanted to do it by himself ;) and i definitley understand that, because it is their business.

Will report ;)
 

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I will say that stock, the difference open vs closed is subtle (but important, more for when you back off the throttle). I have an exhaust controller on mine (Forza) and while I like it a lot, it can at times be a more subtle difference. No question an aftermarket exhaust can be quite a bit louder so you may be right, the exhaust itself may be more of the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi,

i am really sure now that i dont get 12V DC at the cable / plug directly at the solenoid valve behind the honeycomb plastic part in the middle of the rear bumper.

I think that there are only 2 options left - everything else works and is checked.

  • someone hid a switch / wireless controller for "always open flaps" somewhere i do not know ;) did not find one yet
  • cable broken between ecu and plug
  • a problem with the ecu so that it does not send 12V to the valve
Will try to measure directly at the ECU to get more clarity.

If anyone has another idea, please let me know :)
Best regards!
 

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While a wire tap switch could be anywhere in the circuit, if it was a wireless remote, you should be able to follow the connector wire from the solenoid to the brain of the controller. Effectively, the controllers simply interrupt the wire in series so it goes in between the normal plug from the cars ECU and the solenoid. I have been meaning to post an install thread of mine which might help explain (though the solenoid for the later cars is in the engine bay, the general principles are the same). Keep us updated.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi! I think i found something. As mentioned earlier, i think that the 12VDC Signal does not reach the valve and that there was some manipulation going on. So i had a look under the driverside rear backlight and found a "random" disconnected cable. I think this was used before to get 12VDC from the lights (was not able to remove the whole light yet because i did not want do take off the wheel etc.) and i think that there maybe was a remote controlling unit for the valve installed and then removed later on before the purchase (?). So my thesis is that the cable to the solenoid was disconnected somewhere near that point just before it enters the bigger cable hose collecting different cables on the way to the ECU (sorry for my english... understandable? :)).

I isolated the cable now correctly to avoid any damage.

Btw the metal and the rear bumper really do not look very nice from the inside ;) ...

Lampe.jpg
 

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Hi @all, just wanted to share the solution! Finally found it. It was an oxidated contact in the fuse box, cleaned everything and now the valve works fine as it should! Also took care of the contacts in the rear light to make everything stock again.
 

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Hi @all, just wanted to share the solution! Finally found it. It was an oxidated contact in the fuse box, cleaned everything and now the valve works fine as it should! Also took care of the contacts in the rear light to make everything stock again.
Oh wow. Awesome that you were able to fix it yourself.
 
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