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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Maybe this is a new one, maybe not.. my battery dies after a couple days of not using car. Ok so whatever old battery, new one enroute. Thx RMR ! But when I connect tender/charger it won’t charge. Disconnect the battery from car. Charges in minutes.. where do you guys suggest to start on this one.?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You connect a tender and it won't charge? You're doing something wrong.
No it won’t and I’m not. So connected to the car it will not charge or would not I guess I’d say. Battery disconnected from car it will.. As it seems the ground from battery to frame is the culprit. Running a jumper cable to engine bracket thing, now it will start /charge on tender. So I removed the bolt, it goes into the aluminum which is obviously painted. So maybe the threads are the main conductor of ground? Anyway cleaned it up and seems normal. Hopefully this helps someone else if this turns up.
 

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2011 LP560-4 Spyder / Blu Fontus
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Uh oh.......... too late to cancel on that battery? I bet That was a pricey one. If not, at least now you'll have the peace of mind of a new battery that's only like 17lbs and can jump itself. Hopefully you bought the charger they suggest you buy with it.... only because anything else and you're asking for trouble because keep in mind that's a Lithium Ion and pretty sure you know what happens to them if they get overcharged ❗❗
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The plan is to lighten this up anyway, so the AG or something like that was in the cards anyway. Yes covered on the charger end as well (especially now..haha) and yes re overcharge/explode
 

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The plan is to lighten this up anyway, so the AG or something like that was in the cards anyway. Yes covered on the charger end as well (especially now..haha) and yes re overcharge/explode
I know I got interested right away when I saw the pitch for the battery. Situation here is that I removed the AWD axles and transfer case, installed Swift Springs and now it feels kind of 'bouncy' in the front. So will a lighter battery like that improve or exaggerate that condition..... is my heavy battery that's in there now making the bouncy bounce or is that a given for what I've done:oops:
 

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Dude, I was just going to say check the ground. Same thing happened to me on my SL. I thought my charger took a crap. Then I switched chargers and it still wouldn’t work. Then I checked the fuses and then the terminals. I probably went in the wrong order but I found my ground was loose. After tightening my ground it charge right up. My batt is 3 years old. Still working fine but I also wanted to lighten up the SL a little so I also just ordered a battery and charger from Mike @RMR . He has been super helpful and should be getting my new batt soon….
 

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I know I got interested right away when I saw the pitch for the battery. Situation here is that I removed the AWD axles and transfer case, installed Swift Springs and now it feels kind of 'bouncy' in the front. So will a lighter battery like that improve or exaggerate that condition..... is my heavy battery that's in there now making the bouncy bounce or is that a given for what I've done:oops:
Probably won't affect it enough for you to notice honestly...any weight reduction is good but it'll have to be a significant change in bias for the driver to notice. Going RWD removes significantly more weight and I know Audi/Lamborghini changed the spring rates on the RWD models to compensate. So you'd be ok going with a lightweight battery. Hit me up! [email protected] and you can always justify it by adding a titanium exhaust! I'm here to help you spend your money :)

The AG's also have internal circuitry to protect the battery from overcharging and obviously for excessive discharge.
 

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Forgot to mention...on the Swift springs, think of it this way...the damper's only job (really simplified) is to control the oscillation of the spring. If the spring rate is not matched to the valving inside the damper (shock), in this case over-sprung, then you'll get a lot of jounce like you're experiencing. Either go down in spring rate or look at replacing the dampers with matched valving. The stock shocks could be worn as well.
 

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Going RWD removes significantly more weight and I know Audi/Lamborghini changed the spring rates on the RWD models to compensate. So you'd be ok going with a lightweight battery. Hit me up! [email protected] and you can always justify it by adding a titanium exhaust! I'm here to help you spend your money :)
So now I suspect Swift's justification of one part# for both the 550-2 and the 560-4 was an optimistic attempt and no one would notice because the ride height is now so sweet? 20k miles shocks worn......Not sure if I want to go on a trial and error search for the answer. It is a small trade-off for what I've gained and probably something I'd get used to after some seat time. BTW, I DO have the Akrapovic titanium exhaust installed. It's a beautiful thing

Ever hear of 'timing' the suspension bushings. Now this was an interesting read that I found on a CHEVY forum but the theory would apply to ANY suspension component with sleeved bushings ❗ ------ Timing Bushings when lowering (How to) - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com

My 10 year old car could be near the end of the life of the second battery if the first one did go 5 years. I'm way over budget on all the goodies I couldn't resist in the last 6 months, but I'm sure now I will be going the lightweight route when the time comes.
 

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Check the drain (draw) on the battery at standstill: remove the negative cable from the negative battery post, put a voltmeter between post/cable, read voltage. Should be less than 12v. If not, switch to amps and measure draw. As I recall should be < 50 ma. If higher, pull one fuse at a time to find the culprit.

By the way, when you say the tender won't charge the battery, are the tender cable connected directly to the battery posts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok I’ll check. Something is still draining it. So fuse check? Yes it directly to terminal. Charger will charge after cleaning ground at battery thinking there’s more grounds I should tackle,
 

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The fuse check is to see which circuit is drawing too much load. I like to pull all the fuses, see what the amperage draw is, then plug in one fuse at a time to see which one causes the draw. Don;'t forget that you will have to tape your door switch closed otherwise your courtesy lights will come on when you plug in that fuse
 

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The G definitely has ongoing drain, but shouldn't be that fast. My 06 will go from fully charged to typically unable to crank in about three to four weeks on a relatively new battery, and progressively worse as they age. I do use a battery tender branded charger on it, and for about the past year it would enter the green/orange cycling code like the battery was defective, but the battery was almost dead as it was coming up on seven years old. I just swapped it this past weekend.

If you have a multimeter you could test the resistance between battery negative term and chassis, besides the fuse box to find loads.
 
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