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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
REF: 99 Diablo VT Roadster

i drove about 200 miles yetserday. i stopped and filled the tank and then drove another 2 blocks. i parked and came back about 1 hour later. the engine would not turn over. The started sounded fine. I waited a few minutes and tried again and it sputtered (would not rev) for about 1 minute and then it died.
I put two cans of octane booster in and it started right up. the engine light is now on. It sounds fine and runs strong just as normal.
1. could it be anything else, or was it the gas?
2. will the engine light reset?
 

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I had bad gas in mine too. It clogged the injectors. You need to know what gas station you are using at all times.
I get the check engine lights as well. what are the coded reading
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i haven't completed any readings yet. the light was on and off. i just ran the tank down by driving in 1st for a couple hours. i just filled it up again and the light went off. I'll take a look again tomorrow
 

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666diablo said:
2. will the engine light reset?
If you are a 1996 or later (ie OBDII) then the CEL will go out if the error condition clears for 2 minutes. The computer will still have recorded the event. Playing back the code(s) would obviously be the best thing so as to understand what happened. If the performance readings of the engine change "quickly" then you can easily get temporary CEL's that are just warnings.

This will happen during the ROTB in August when the cars end up in the high elevations of Tahoe. My '99 roadster takes about 20-40 mins to clear its CEL after getting into the Tahoe basin. The 1st point is that the car learns how the engine performs and changing things (like maybe the octane rating of the fuel) could cause problems (at least temporarily) as the computer re-learns things. The 2nd point is that just because things changed doesn't necessarily mean that anything is wrong.

666diablo said:
the engine would not turn over.
I assume you meant that the engine WOULD turn over but not fire? If not then I can't see how this would be anything to do with gas.

-mick
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
gday said:
If you are a 1996 or later (ie OBDII) then the CEL will go out if the error condition clears for 2 minutes. The computer will still have recorded the event. Playing back the code(s) would obviously be the best thing so as to understand what happened. If the performance readings of the engine change "quickly" then you can easily get temporary CEL's that are just warnings.

This will happen during the ROTB in August when the cars end up in the high elevations of Tahoe. My '99 roadster takes about 20-40 mins to clear its CEL after getting into the Tahoe basin. The 1st point is that the car learns how the engine performs and changing things (like maybe the octane rating of the fuel) could cause problems (at least temporarily) as the computer re-learns things. The 2nd point is that just because things changed doesn't necessarily mean that anything is wrong.

I assume you meant that the engine WOULD turn over but not fire? If not then I can't see how this would be anything to do with gas.

-mick
the warning has cleared. Thanks for the info

yes... it would turn over but it would not fire. thanks for your help; my error. How long have you had your 99 roadster? is it a VT?
 

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666diablo said:
How long have you had your 99 roadster? is it a VT?
A little more than 2 1/2 years. Yes its a VT which I believe all USA models are. Sure is a blast.

-mick
 

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Vt

Vt Stands For Viscus Traction = All Wheel Drive, In 98 And 99
They Maid Some Sv For Us Which Are Rear Wheel Drive. They Are
Not Called Vt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
gday said:
A little more than 2 1/2 years. Yes its a VT which I believe all USA models are. Sure is a blast.

-mick
do you drive it a lot? I put about 1000 per month on mine and so far it has run great. i am up to 24,000 and so far i have left it stock for the most part. I am likely going to use an aftermarket clutch because the original doesn't seem to be made for this type of use. you may have responded to prior posts when i asked for suggestions. I was thinking about Al Burtoni products, but now i sent him an e-mail requesting more info and i have had no reply. i don't think that is a good sign
 

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jeffoc said:
Vt Stands For Viscus Traction = All Wheel Drive, In 98 And 99
They Maid Some Sv For Us Which Are Rear Wheel Drive. They Are
Not Called Vt.
So you are aware of US VIN'ed SV roadsters? As I wrote, at this point I only know of some in the UK and Oz ie outside the US.

-mick
 

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666diablo said:
do you drive it a lot? I put about 1000 per month on mine and so far it has run great. i am up to 24,000 and so far i have left it stock for the most part. I am likely going to use an aftermarket clutch because the original doesn't seem to be made for this type of use. you may have responded to prior posts when i asked for suggestions. I was thinking about Al Burtoni products, but now i sent him an e-mail requesting more info and i have had no reply. i don't think that is a good sign
Mine is basically stock and I have about 17k on mine. I have the Burtoni exhuast and clutch which I'm happy with. I've had leaky front shocks for a while and just this past weekend one has finally failed after a blast through the Tahoe mountains. I now have the shocks in the error state and I'll figure out which one on the weekend so I'll probably be taking the car back to Als on Monday to get fixed.....

-mick
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
tell Al to give Fox Valley Motors some Feedback! they are questioning the installation of aftermarket parts as it is and if they aren't repsonding to Fox Valley right now it is only get more difficult as time goes on.

Anyway, would you suggest his clutch to anyone?
I blew a shock also; lot's of red fluid. It happened at about 20k
 

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666diablo said:
tell Al to give Fox Valley Motors some Feedback! they are questioning the installation of aftermarket parts as it is and if they aren't repsonding to Fox Valley right now it is only get more difficult as time goes on.
I have to talk to them today or tomorrow so I will see what trouble I can stir up :)

666diablo said:
Anyway, would you suggest his clutch to anyone? .
Yes but... The problem I see is that there are a number of options out there but who has done a side by side to compare performance and price?? The only things I know for sure is the original clutch must be upgraded somehow and Als is working fine for me.

666diablo said:
I blew a shock also; lot's of red fluid. It happened at about 20k
don't have lots of fluid yet...... but I know what the cost will be :( Damn KONI/Lambo conspiracy.

-mick
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
gday said:
I have to talk to them today or tomorrow so I will see what trouble I can stir up :)

Yes but... The problem I see is that there are a number of options out there but who has done a side by side to compare performance and price?? The only things I know for sure is the original clutch must be upgraded somehow and Als is working fine for me.

don't have lots of fluid yet...... but I know what the cost will be :( Damn KONI/Lambo conspiracy.

-mick
i don't remember what it cost; it was combined with a dented rim and a tire so i never noticed. I remember the total came to under 5k (new wheel incl). Thanks for talking to Al. so far his is the only clutch i have looked into. Have you heard of any others worth further inquiries?
 

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Getting back to the bad gas situation, I'm in CA so the best octane you can buy is 91 (R+M/2). Do you, normally put octane booster to a tank of gas??? If so, do you recommend any specific brand name???

Dave
 

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IMO, decent clean guaranteed 91 octane in California is fine. I use it all the time. The problem is the "decent clean guranteed" part and not the 91 octane bit but then again - once bitten, twice shy. There are some that have switched to 100 octane after getting gunked up crap fuel and they just don't want more trouble. Part of that assumption is that 100 octane is more reliable as far being "clean" etc.

The reality is that the cars do not need such high octane but if thats what it takes to find reliably clean fuel then so be it. Using an octane booster does nothing to "de-crap" the fuel that you might be using.

-mick
 

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100 octane - do you mean avgas??? Is it readily available? Is there any specific gas brands that are more reliably "clean"? Chevron vs Texaco vs Shell etc???

Dave
 

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Dmayeda said:
100 octane - do you mean avgas??? Is it readily available? Is there any specific gas brands that are more reliably "clean"? Chevron vs Texaco vs Shell etc???
For example, Unocal 76 sells 100 octane in many places as "racing fuel". Avgas is normally 100LL and contains lead. Reliably "clean" gas is more an issue of local delivery and how much turnover a gas station has....

-mick
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Dmayeda said:
Getting back to the bad gas situation, I'm in CA so the best octane you can buy is 91 (R+M/2). Do you, normally put octane booster to a tank of gas??? If so, do you recommend any specific brand name???

Dave
this is the first time i have had an issue. The gas i put in was supposed to be 93 octane and it was pumped at a fairly well known station. I have pumped up at small stations w/ no name and i have never had the issue. It may have just been a bad delivery and a one time event.

I just suggest that you carry some octane booster with you so that you don't end up towing the car for no reason
 
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