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That is great. When I rebuilt mine it was a Frankenstein build with parts from various slave cyls. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #142
Project Ecoboost is now underway

I haven't posted in a while, just been occasionally driving the Jalpa. Had fun over the summer with drives. The engine runs good, car drives good. Since I have had it for 5 years without an engine out service, and since the prior owner couldn't confirm an engine out service in the 7+ years he owned the car, and since the owner before that couldn't confirm a service, I figured it was time to pull the engine before anything tragic happened. After all, 15+ (and maybe 25+) years seemed a long time between major services.

Now the engine is on a homemade powertrain stand in the garage. After cleaning it up, it looks good.

After pulling the engine, and considering my options, and also based on my line of work, I have decided to Ecoboost the Jalpa. Some people will probably call it blasphemous. To them I say-- Eat my dust, and lets race for pinks!

Project Ecoboost is now underway! Depending on the responses and support, there will either be a lot of upcoming posts, or a lot of silence. Let the journey begin!
 

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Nice List...but keep in mind a leak-down test... if more than 8 %...motor needs to come apart

Valve clearance: critical to prevent lobe wear (cams $ 4-5 K)

Lambo OEM valve seats and valve guides...low-quality !:(

Without correcting these... any forced-induction is just a blow-by enhancer :)

Paul
 

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Hey Carnut. Sounds a lot like what I have worked on. I think we should do whatever we want with our cars. They are ours and they are toys. We are not trying to save them for a museum. Besides who can stand the idea of our lambo being outrun by a camaro or mustang. I did a lot of work to my internals to handle boost. Here are some of the good ideas: 1. Replace the valves with manley severe duty. The stock exhaust valves are crap. The intakes are a little better but not great. 2. Replace the head studs with stainless studs for a dodge turbo diesel and use their nuts .3. Have the rods magnafluxed , shot peened and replace the bolts with ARP rod bolts. If I tear down my motor again , I am going to spring for a set of Carillo rods. They will take anything you can throw at them. The stock ones are forged but not that great. 4. I had cometic make a custom set of head gaskets so they have the pattern now. 5. Improve the clutch. It will not take that much torque without slipping. I have a 400 ft lb clutch from Sachs but stock pressure plate. At 275 hp I slip the clutch. 6. Make your headers out of stainless weld els. You can buy at ace race parts. They will take the heat. Look at all my older posts and there is lots more. Good luck. Are you planning single or dual turbo? How much boost? I will help you any way I can. Lee
 

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Discussion Starter #145
Project ecoboost

Thank for the kind words and great suggestions. Each project takes its own path depending on the owner.

The project is as follows—

Goal— 350 ft lbs, 350 horsepower
Power supplied by a stock 2.3l gtdi ford ecoboost engine
Control system using Ford racing 2.3l gtdi PCM and fuse box
Transmission -Ford MMT6 six speed by Getrag rated to 350 ft lbs from Focus St
Aftermarket tune likely needed and will be going to Livernois racing

2.3l gtdi engines can be built for much greater capabilities, but it seems the Noble guys start having trans problems above 400 ft-lbs. I decided manual was a must, and that the MMT6 trans is the best option. After market support for the 2.3l ecoboost is huge since it is available in Mustangs, Rangers, etc.

I have completed an engine bay scan of the Jalpa engine compartment and the CAD data shows the powertrain fits. Any Jalpa owner interested, I can send you the scan, or maybe Raymond would want it on the Jalpa site. Let me know

Biggest worries are intercooler package and shifter linkage. Scouring scrap yards / resellers now for parts.
 

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Certainly going to fun to watch this unfold.

Are you aware of the LS1 powered car in Australia?

Curious why you chose the 2.3l Ford over the LS engines?
 

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I am with Ohlgren. Why not put in an LS motor. It is light, small and very powerful. . Why go down in displacement? You could easily get 350 hp out of the Jalpa motor with a little boost. Mine makes 275 with the webers and I only am running 9 to one compression. I plan to boost to 15 lbs and expect over 500 hp. I think with rods, 11 to 1 and new cams I could see 375 hp without boosting.(50 hp compression, 50heads and rpm) I may end up adding the rods, adding the boost and having custom heads made. That would push me into the 600 to 700 hp range. Are there condition issues with your motor that makes you want to swap?
 

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Discussion Starter #149
Project Ecoboost

Stock engine engine runs good, but needs a freshening (20+ years between freshening is pushing it, and I did not want to push my luck any further.

Instead of putting money into a freshening, I think a 350hp-350ftlb modern powertrain swap would put the car in the extremely fun category while shaving several hundred pounds off the rear to balance the car out. Going above 350-350, in my opinion, would start requiring massive chassis / structure changes to appropriately handle the stresses.

I have worked for an OEM for 20+ years, and have had great experiences with that ecoboost four cylinder. Small, light, powerful, cheap (and fuel efficient, but that's kind of irrelevent here unless I can lay claim to the most fuel efficient lamborghini of all time with potentially 25+ MPG).

I considered pulling a full powertrain from an MKZ FWD for a nice 400-400 powertrain, but then I would be the only person on planet earth engine swapping a nano V6 (although Livernois offers tunes.). It barely fits, but intercooler package would be a nightmare and I became concerned with halfshaft angle and articulation due to the Jalpa subframe constraints and the tall 6F55 automatic transmission that would accompany it.

Since the aftermarket support for the 2.3 is so strong, there are tuners / builders everywhere.

Regarding the LS engine swap, I considered it quite seriously. That Australian build is epic-- looks great, goes great-- Beautiful execution. Hats of to the builder and creator-- fantastic work. I looked into what the Fiero builders (V8 Archie and others do for their V8 transaxles), but it didn't get me going.

Also considered ecoboost 3.5L (think Ford GT / Raptor), but the realization is that transverse mounted transaxles top out with the Getrag six speeds at 370 ft pounds, so unless you go full custom / race / built gearboxes, 350 is the reliable safe limit-- which is exactly what a mild 2.3L ecoboost build gets-- and it can do it for 200,000+ miles.

Any problem can be solved multiple ways-- that's what makes it fun. This should be a balanced and reliable powertrain.

I applaud all of you who have pushed, and continue to push the power limits on the stock engine.

It would be fun to drag/autocross/dyno compare our Jalpas to compare performance once everyone's builds are done.
 

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Are you interested in selling the Jalpa motor? Once the ecoboost goes in, the jalpa motor will never go back. I might be interested in both engine and trans. It would give me a backup in case I frag something. Let me know. Might give you the funds you need for the whole project. Lee
 

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Discussion Starter #151
Reply to Lee

Maybe once I complete the repowering project, I might consider selling the motor once I get tired of it taking up space in my garage. I will keep you in mind.
 

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Send me a PM if you want to . I would love a backup and pay cash . Lee
 

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Not easy to remove, but very hard to put the new one in place, not simple when the hose need to go near the hole where the gear change axle is.
 

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You have a left and right saddle tank...there are many ways to join them that are far more efficient than the Lambo OEM set-up...particularly if you are considering changing the drive-train.

You can spray oil-fogger into the cavities where the old crossover hose goes and start yanking it out !

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #156
How to remove the fuel crossover hose

After much work, I was able to remove the fuel crossover hose. Here is how I completed the task—

1. Rent 5 lb slide hammer from O’Reilly Auto Parts
2. Thread wire fish tape through center of hose in hopes that it will help to allow the new hose to simply be pulled through the crossmember
3. Use Preo’s reccomendation (thank you) of fogging oil— apply liberally through all crossmember holes
4. Drill hole in hose on left side of car and insert the wrong end of the slide hammer handle through the hole in the hose
5. Slide hammer hundreds of times
6. Drink homebrew
7. Slide hammer hundreds of times
8. Cutoff removed hose, redrill, reinsert slide hammer (this was done to shorten length of springy hose in a futile attempt to make the process go faster.
9. Having drunk all my homebrew, brew another batch
10. Repeat steps 5,6,7,8 and 9 as many times as necessary
11. Search internet for a replacement 1” fuel hose with a thin wall. Likely going to use Continental 59316 and hope that a thinner more flexible hose goes in easier than the old hose

Whoever was able to get the 1” Goodyear Redwing hose into the car must have had some serious muscle.
 

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Unfortunately I saw this (fuel tank connecting hose removal and installation) too late, but here is what I have recommended previously and since tried both in my Jalpa and in a Urraco:

It consists of:
1. Join the new hose to the old hose by drilling 4 to 6 transverse holes near the ends of both the old and new hoses and then thread either a nylon or steel wire through those holes.
2. Spray the installed hose through the available holes (if needed make new holes) with a lubricant (silicone, WD40, etc.)
3. Then “just” pull hard and persistently on the old hose, while a helper pushes at the other end.

The most difficult part is to get the old hose to move in the beginning, as it has conformed to the sharp turns in the conduit section.

Attached are two pictures from my Jalpa removal/installation. Actually the new hose shown had too small a diameter, but it was an easy process to use this to pull the correct (1” ID) hose through.

Laust
 

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Discussion Starter #158 (Edited)
New powertrain is assembled

The new powertrain is assembled—

2015 MKC 2.3l GTDI ecoboost engine
2018 Focus ST MMT6 transmission
2018 Focus ST accessories (belts, A/C, starter, Alternator)
New Ford Performance 2.3L GTDI control pack (PCM, fuse box, harness, etc)
New Focus RS clutch and dual mass flywheel
 

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Discussion Starter #159
With the engine out, some changes were needed

With the engine out, I was able to pull the front and rear bulkhead heatshields off. I discovered that someone used Mansfield R-11 yellow glass fiber home insulation between the shields and the bulkheads, fortunately there was no rust. I am going to go out on a limb and say that it didn’t come from the factory that way.

Probably going to put a layer of dynamatt insulation on the shields or similar unless someone has another recommendation. I do not want a water trapping insulation/sound absorber.
 

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It seems like there was fiberglass behind mine as well. Lucky not a lot of rust. Treat with POR for a very durable finish under the firewall. I think I used dynamat as well. I cant remember.
 
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