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The trick set-up is using 2 Super-Trap ends with a crossover pipe (X-pipe etc.) Have them both come out on the drivers side in the rear

Makes sound adjustment easy and they weigh far less than the stock systems...

Paul
 
I am running two Magnaflow straight through stainless 5in dia glasspacks 2.5 in pipes with no cats. I originally designed the system to run downstream of twin turbos but want to see what it will do connected to my headers. It is pretty loud but has virtually no backpressure.This thing really wants to rev. I am dying to see how much power it makes in the upper rpm bands. If it loses too much bottom end I can fabricate another set of headers with longer smaller tubes like 26 or 30 in and use 2.25 pipes.By the Math my engine should produce at least 325 hp at 7,000 rpm.(Normally Aspirated) THe numbers say 340 or so but I am not that optimistic. After I dyno this thing I will have good baselines for injection, turbos etc. If it is fast enough as is, I may drive it while I am playing idiot mad scientist again building the turbo system.. Any Ideas on a good flow reasonably quiet stainless muffler that is small enough. Most are 14 x 9 which is too big. Lee
 
Thats why the Super Trap is great...you don't need any other "muffler" and you can make it quiet so that you can listen to the motor...keep in mind that the 4 cam motor is 10X more noisy mechanically then the belt driven 2 cam motor...and changes in "noise" can indicate problems !

Also Lee...after 2 or 3 hours on the test bench...re-torque the heads and check valve clearance carefully...

Paul
 
Thats why the Super Trap is great...you don't need any other "muffler" and you can make it quiet so that you can listen to the motor...keep in mind that the 4 cam motor is 10X more noisy mechanically then the belt driven 2 cam motor...and changes in "noise" can indicate problems !

Also Lee...after 2 or 3 hours on the test bench...re-torque the heads and check valve clearance carefully...

Paul
Paul, I would like to see a picture of that.
 
Thanks< I already reset the valve lash. Iam running 85 ft lbs of torque with the arp studs. I have been debating to hot torque them or leave them alone.Both cometic and ARP said I did not need to retorque. At 60 absolutely but what are your thoughts at 85ft lbs. I am afraid I may pull a stud. We are dealing with such high quality castings after all . Lee
 
Lee,

It's not max torque...just make sure none loosen up after a few hours use...as I recall with stock studs we used a max of 72 ft/lbs.

Don't hot torque !

Once they have "set" they don't really change...

Paul
 
Regarding Super Trap...I am away and don't have access to photos.

We used the polished "Elites" in 4 inch diameter as I recall.

You have 2 connecting pipes after the collector on the headers...simply make 2 new ones (with a cross over) so that both are on the drivers side and use the hanger on that side to keep everything steady...

Paul
 
Discussion starter · #129 ·
I'll keep the restrictor in the fuel line

I have decided to keep the mystery restrictor in the fuel line for now. Thanks for all the comments.

Once the car is ready to run, I'll adjust the fuel pressure down to the right level. I'm keeping the crazy emissions equipment. Some engineer in Italy worked long and hard on the carbon canister and vent and fuel system design, and I'll honor his work (at least for now) so as not to introduce new problems.

Speaking of new problems--- my clutch pedal just went to the floor
 
Discussion starter · #130 · (Edited)
Clutch master cylinder rebuild

Some pictures of my clutch master rebuild--

Clutch slave cylinder diameter is 7/8"
GT car parts had a rebuild kit
The lip seal originally on the cylinder had either shrunk or was a poor substitute, you can see a slight step between the bore and the seal in the third picture. The new seal (fourth picture) fits flush with the bore
 

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Paul are you saying to torque with the engine completely cold. When I say hot torque I mean Warm it up, let it cooll off a little then torque with the engine warm.I guess I meant warm torque, Lee
 
No...I torque when the engine is at ambient (room temperature) We usually had the dyno for 2 days...so after the first day...when we had run in the motor I checked the head torque...then after power runs on the second day...after cool down I checked again.

Typically the changes were on one or two studs...and only 2-3 ft./lbs

Paul
 
So starting with 85 , Even with a point or 2 drop , I am still well above spec so noo real need to retorque. I am afraid of pulling a stud> Lee
 
Discussion starter · #134 ·
Method to build up oil pressure prior to an engine start

Has anyone developed an easy way to build oil pressure in the engine prior to starting? In theory I am wrapping up a whole bunch of repairs, but the engine has been sitting for about a year and want to build oil pressure before I crank. Any tips or tricks?
 
I made my own prepressurizer out of 2in 2 ft long pvc. I used reducer fitting that with adaptors I connected a Schrader valve (tire valve) on one end.On the other end use a 2x 1x1 tee. On one side put a threaded plug so you can fill with oil and on the other side adapt down to the size of the high pressure oil line. I connect that through a tee where the sender goes , I used a manual sender to be able to see the pressure before starting. you can buy a cheap one for 25 dollars. Fill the tube with good oil,screw on the cap,put the air valve end up and pressurize the system. Watch oil flow through the motor. You only need 30or 40 psi to get oil into everything. Make sure you drain all water out of your compressor first . Also pull the plugs and spray wd40 down all the plug holes first. Turn the engine over several times with the engine off or coil disconnected and the plugs out to get everything prelubricated. After that you disconnect the pvc tube, reconnect the factory sender and fire it up. The oil pressure should come up immediately. Good luck lee
 
Discussion starter · #136 · (Edited)
Successful 850 Mile jalpa Roadtrip over the weekend

This last weekend I was able to put some serious miles on the Jalpa-- 850 Miles in a two day road rally. Over the last 18 months I had done a lot of small projects to make it roadworthy, but it hadn't seen the road since then-- New radiator, new fan controller, new starter wires, new alternator and belt, rebuilt carbs, rebuilt airboxes, electrical work, new brake calipers, new brake pads, new brake lines, rebuilt clutch master cylinder, and hundreds of other small items.

I was able to put a 24 mile shakedown commute on the car before the rally, and then I went for it-- all 850 miles. Here are some pics of the RallyKing waterfall rally--

Thanks for all the contributors who offered advice over the last 18 months to make the drive possible
 

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Discussion starter · #137 ·
More RallyKing Pics

Second day of driving was 100% topless. Perfect sunny and 70F weather for a 450 mile drive
 

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Discussion starter · #138 ·
Clutch slave cylinder cross reference

I have been absent from the forum for some time, but wanted to post a cross reference that seems to be working great. I know all Jalpa's seem to be a bit different, but I just found this Alfa Romeo 147 clutch slave cylinder that fit perfectly, and matched my bore diameter of 20.64mm. In the side by side pictures, you can see the one external housing difference. I used the 3 retainer rings as a spacers to take up the ~4 mm housing difference
 

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