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Also did you strengthen the frame engine carriage. I welded 1/4 plate cut to fit on the bottom rails of the whole thing and then had the whole assembly powder coated. Watch out also for the bolt holes in the round engine carriage mounts. They are thin and strip very easily. You can weld thicken the ends and retap them
 

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Discussion Starter · #183 ·
Jalpa specification question—

I am begining the measurement process for my custom halfshafts. To do it right, the car needs to be at the correct ride height. Since I have taken 300plus pounds out of my car with the engine swap, and since I have originally saggy springs, I have no baseline for what the correct Jalpa ride height is in the rear

Ideally I would be looking for a measurement from wheel hub center to quarter panel arch, but I am not picky, I can interpolate or estimate from just about any other surrogate dimension.

Back a while ( 2006) Jalpa-Mike had posted a picture with a 24 5/8” ground to arch measurement, but I cant tell what Pirelli tires he has to determine a SLR (static loaded radius) of the tire to interperlate the dimension I need.

Anyone else got a Jalpa on the ground with good OEM springs that is stockish and can take a measurement wheel hub center vertical distance to quarter panel flange?


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I can probably do this for you. No changes on my car that would effect weight. I will go out there with a tape measurer tonight or tomorrow. I think my suspension is most likely original, so take that into account. My springs are probably not super springy.....
 

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Here is what I got:

The ride height on my car is 7 3/4" in the rear just in front of the wheel and 7 1/2" right behind the front wheel.

The distance between the center of the hub and the wheel bottom of the wheel well is 12". (This is close, but the hub is so far recessed, it was tricky to get super exact. I snapped a picture so you can look at it. If you need something more accurate, I will have to dig out some squares and such.)

The distance from the bottom of the wheel well to the top of the rim is 2 7/8".
 

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Discussion Starter · #189 ·
Rear Shock compatibility research— Since the rear suspension was apart, and I needed to make a couple adjustments, I put together the following charts based off of the rear struts inserts that were on my car (they inserts say made in Spain). Due to the engine swap and some halfshaft angle concerns at full suspension droop/rebound, I may use the 1436/1257 Koni’s instead of the usual 1437. Here are some pictures of the charts, drawings, parts
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Discussion Starter · #192 ·
Hoping to have it ready by the end of June for some summer road trips. Who knows, maybe even a trip to the drive-in to see Fast and Furious in June. While I am waiting for the Koni gland nut, working on plumbing things in the car. Just finished mounting the degas bottle.
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Discussion Starter · #194 ·
Definitely not going back to the original engine, but not ready to sell it yet. Maybe after I get some miles on the new engine later in the summer.

Three more pieces fabricated— Engine Water outlet hose (bottom), Engine to heater feed hose (middle), Engine degas hose (top).

)
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Discussion Starter · #196 ·
While the axle shafts are being made, I decided to fab up the exhaust system. Here it is taped together after creating lots of pie cuts with 304 ss pipes. Turbo outlet
is 2.75” which feeds to a 3” flexpipe into the transverse muffler, then 2.5” twin exhaust pipes

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Discussion Starter · #198 ·
Some more project pictures- Fuel tanks stripped and internally coated (KBS fuel tank sealer) and externally coated (KBS RustSeal) and upper strut mounts completed. Upper strut mounts were from CompBrakes- Universal Plain & Reversed Adjustable Front Suspension Top Mount (PAIR) with
M14x1.50 sleeve nuts to match the Koni inserts
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