Mine weren’t leaking but the reverse flow diaphragms were shot making it harder to start after sitting
My opinion would be to replace everything from the tank to the overflow line, incl stainless lines, regulator lines etc, all 4 filters etc

 

New Alternator
I was driving the car for the first time at night and about 10 minutes into my drive I noticed the battery warning light up. The car was running fine so I decided to U turn back home. During a stressful 10 minute drive back I noticed my headlights go dimmer and dimmer but made it back home safely. Jacked the car up to get to the battery and checked the voltage was showing ~12v, this should be higher. Started the car and the voltage remained around 12v, so I knew the alternator was bad. I then turned the car off and tested for any voltage drain when stopped. I could see a constant 3 amp draw when car was off. I then disconnected the main positive cable from the 250A fuse to the alternator and the amp draw disappeared, another confirmation my alternator was toast. I guess the extra load of the headlights on the aging alternator made it blow up.

I decided to bring the alternator to a local auto electrician to see if it could be rebuilt. Sadly the rectifier was fried, so it couldn't be rebuilt. From some research on this forum I learnt the alternator is shared with a Porsche 928 (#Bosch Al170X) and searched far and wide over several weeks for a replacement unit. I contacted about 10 shops and they were all out of stock. I ended up with two options available, order a rebuilt Bosch unit through Porsche imported from Germany for about A$2,200+, or the same rebuilt Bosch unit from BuyAutoParts in the US for about A$700 delivered, so I chose the cheaper option. Installing the unit was pretty straightforward after removing the exhaust heat cover and the right air intake access was easy.

There were two other reasons my alternator probably broke. Firstly my car was missing an alternator heat shield (which my mechanic previously warned me about), so I sourced a second hand unit and installed this between the cats and alternator. Secondly, there is a fresh air inlet tube which connects to the alternator which mine was also broken and not connected. This tube connects from the right skirt intake next to the fuel tank. So I ordered about 2m of new brake duct tube and connected this to the alternator cover inlet.

The car now maintains ~13.7 volts when driving and there is no more amperage drain when standing. I also purchased a new battery trickle charger to make sure no more weak battery.

 

when you trickle charge, make sure to disconnect the power switch. I dont know if there is any truth to it, but some report it could fry the LIE's having the trickle charger connected with the power switch on.

 

Thanks, yes that is a good idea for sure. I am a little paranoid and always turn off the battery disconnect switch when parked and also have the trickle charger connected directly to the battery if that makes any difference.

 

^yes, or so I’m told. Not a bad habit to form. Also, remove and thoroughly clean all your grounds if not already done. These cars are very fickle to clean grounds.

 

Thanks. Cleaning the ground straps was one of the first jobs I did to try fix a random starter motor click that happens from time to time. Grounds are immaculate now.

 

Hi there

Paul is an old friend and an Excellent Technician, Ozzi have you change your clutch?

Thank you

PS: Say please Hi form us to Paul )))

 

Hi there

Paul is an old friend and an Excellent Technician, Ozzi have you change your clutch?

Thank you

PS: Say please Hi form us to Paul )))

Hi there, I agree Paul is a great mechanic, I will send him your regards. Yes, I replaced my clutch already late last years. Cheers

 

Interesting and I hadn’t thought about this…..
is there any physical indication the remapping cycle is complete ?

 

I feel like I can tell a difference in how it runs between before and after but there is no real indication of the ending of the mapping process. The mapping process operates after engine reaches less than 1330 rpm and continues for 4 min of the engine running at less than 1330 rpms. If this process is not done it just runs on the base map programmed into the ecu which is likely not an ideal map.

I always make sure to cut the power and have it do a remap after every time I change anything on the car like balancing the banks, changing plugs, cleaning injectors, etc.

 

Seth, pretty sure that cycle is the standard warm up cycle, not related to whether the main battery switch was turned off. Happens every cold start: idles say 2,000 - 2,500 RPMs until warmed up then 1,060 RPMs.

 

I see what you're saying, but I'm not suggesting that the mapping is due to the battery disconnect being used. It will try to remap after every start. It's more about wether or not it needs to be remapped. I don't know for sure if the previous map is erased when the disconnect is used but I remember reading this somewhere.

I wouldn't really consider remapping part of the warm-up cycle. Yes, it will do it every time you start the car if you allow it to reach the parameters it needs but the warm-up and changing of the RPM is due to the closing of the bypass valves not the remapping. The remapping only starts when the engine is up to temp and the idle is nearly all of the way down.

 

Brake Light Switch
Brake lights stopped working one day. This ended up being a simple fix with replacement of the light switch near the brake pedal (I believe this might be a different location for earlier cars).
Diagnosis was easy to determine by turning the car on and touching the two wires which are connected to the switch as the rear lights should turn on when the circuit is completed. I managed to find a similar generic two-prong brake light switch from the auto store (closed circuit type) however it had a M10x1.25 thread type (original is M10x1.0), so I put the thread through a M10x1.0 die to fit the original bracket. Brake lights work now.