Hello. I need to replace the speakers in the doors of my Diablo. I have found two nuts in the front under the cover and two in the back. The diagram shows one in the middle plus one connecting the armrest with the front part. I can reach my hand in from the front far enough to feel the one connecting the two half's but cannot feel the other one supposedly connecting the middle to the door. How in the heck does a person get the panel off to replace the speakers??
91 Door Panel Removal
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Over on lambo web .com are a number of esoteric repairs for a Diablo. One of them is the replacement of door struts which will walk you through also how to remove the speakers.
Click on that link and it is relatively straightforward. I have replaced both of my struts and following these guides makes the speaker removal pretty simple as well.
Click on that link and it is relatively straightforward. I have replaced both of my struts and following these guides makes the speaker removal pretty simple as well.
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there is one blind bolt that goes on a stud thats in the armrest I believe. I have not figured out how to get that f'er off - if that is the bolt that is sitting in the pan of the door that is why.
if you figure out how to get it in there let us know, and if you do you likely have hands he size of a small infant.
if you figure out how to get it in there let us know, and if you do you likely have hands he size of a small infant.
Yes that nut is a bugger! I took the screw off the inside door opener and pulled it up enough to get a short extension with a wobble in there to remove the nut.... Hope I can get it back on
The car has two amps in the Fronk. The parts book I have shows only one. I believe they are not stock, but not sure. The outer one has ends that look Lamborghini to me. The way the vinyl wraps around them and they match the profile of the amp. (Precision Power A300). And the Precison Power FRX-332 is some kind of crossover device. I unplugged it and made no difference in sound but my speakers are coming apart, so hard to judge. The car has only one sub-woofer behind the drivers seat. Don't think that one is factory. Different brand. I am going to replace the door speakers with some smaller ones. 5.25 instead of 6.5. And replace the sub-woofer. The newer speakers have metal frames and they would be hard to cut out like they did the door speakers I took out. I'm not a big audiophile guy, just want it to work right. I would rather listen to the engine...
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remind me you're MY? I don't think any of that is stock, at least not for an early car. It was all Alpine.
On the nut, I really doesn't matter, as the force on the armrest is shear on the bolt, so if you don't get the nut on no big deal.
if I recall, the speaker size for both the sub and the doors are non-standard by todays standards, I used focal speakers, not cheap but they sound good. I also did a good amp, but when the Diablo is wide open it doesn't keep up with the sound of the v12.
On the nut, I really doesn't matter, as the force on the armrest is shear on the bolt, so if you don't get the nut on no big deal.
if I recall, the speaker size for both the sub and the doors are non-standard by todays standards, I used focal speakers, not cheap but they sound good. I also did a good amp, but when the Diablo is wide open it doesn't keep up with the sound of the v12.
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I see that in the post title, I should pay attention. then none of that gear is original.
we must be talking a different nut, as the one I am referring to is in no way connected to the speaker or its parts (I don't think, could be wrong, its been a while since I have been in there)
Do you have the original alpine head unit?
keep us posted on all the details.
we must be talking a different nut, as the one I am referring to is in no way connected to the speaker or its parts (I don't think, could be wrong, its been a while since I have been in there)
Do you have the original alpine head unit?
keep us posted on all the details.
The armrest is secured to the door with two nuts in the back and one in the front. The only way to see the one in the front is with the front part off that houses the speaker off.
The front part is secured with two nuts behind the little access door and one under the bottom of the main door near the front. Then the one in question holds the rear part of it in place securely with the stud from the arm rest. My speaker was attached to the front compartment from the inside with screws, not with the nut we are talking about. I can take some photos of all that when I get my new speakers in, if you would like.
The car has the original Alpine head unit with the cd changer behind the passenger seat. I cannot get the cd player in the head unit to work but the changer behind the seat works. The radio part works properly in the head unit.
The front part is secured with two nuts behind the little access door and one under the bottom of the main door near the front. Then the one in question holds the rear part of it in place securely with the stud from the arm rest. My speaker was attached to the front compartment from the inside with screws, not with the nut we are talking about. I can take some photos of all that when I get my new speakers in, if you would like.
The car has the original Alpine head unit with the cd changer behind the passenger seat. I cannot get the cd player in the head unit to work but the changer behind the seat works. The radio part works properly in the head unit.
Old south, if you follow the link I sent you on Lambo web you’ll find that that nut takes some feeling around to get to but is otherwise OK to get to. It’s hidden but if you fish in there you will find it. I do not remember it being as big of an issue as others have made it out to be, but then again mine is a model yr 97 and maybe it has slightly moved in subsequent years. At the end of the day, doing the first one is a little hard but the second one is very easy in relation. Good luck.
oh, while you are in there take grease to the window mechanism and any moving parts in there. Now would be also the time to replace your lock canister if it is cracked, like most are, the finger hold cup if that matters to you and other parts. Greasing everything thoroughly is a must. You will have to cut the plastic liner to take the panel off and when you replace it make sure you form a good seal for moisture and dust.
finally, from memory I don’t remember if you take the entire panel off to get to where you are trying to get and if you don’t have to take the whole panel off, no worries. A few more minutes time and the panel would come off which is what I’m talking about. To do so is simply preventative TLC.
oh, while you are in there take grease to the window mechanism and any moving parts in there. Now would be also the time to replace your lock canister if it is cracked, like most are, the finger hold cup if that matters to you and other parts. Greasing everything thoroughly is a must. You will have to cut the plastic liner to take the panel off and when you replace it make sure you form a good seal for moisture and dust.
finally, from memory I don’t remember if you take the entire panel off to get to where you are trying to get and if you don’t have to take the whole panel off, no worries. A few more minutes time and the panel would come off which is what I’m talking about. To do so is simply preventative TLC.
Yes, mine is nothing like the link you sent. There is no plug to remove to access anything. No light on the back of the door, just a plate there. I think they improved the design over the years. That nut is very difficult to access and impossible without a wobble.
Finished installing new speakers and oiling everything inside the door. Interesting note - all the panels have the serial number of the car written on what looks like freezer tape.
One word of caution... I would not remove the pin from the inside latch at all costs. Just leave it connected and support it instead of removing. The inside door release is made of plastic and one of my plastic clips broke off. I JB welded it instead of paying $200-300 for a new one. The only way to get it back into the remaining clip was to unhook the other end at the latch.
One word of caution... I would not remove the pin from the inside latch at all costs. Just leave it connected and support it instead of removing. The inside door release is made of plastic and one of my plastic clips broke off. I JB welded it instead of paying $200-300 for a new one. The only way to get it back into the remaining clip was to unhook the other end at the latch.
Attachments
Ditto - my 97 has this masking tape numbering all inside the doors and some other parts (like engine bay carbon surround pieces). Makes me think they test assembled some parts, then removed them for other finishing processes, then reassembled them.
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