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The skateboard wheels should not be used, or if you have them take them off. If any real pressure is applied to them you may run the risk of damage. The main structural frame of the diablo ends in a box section around the trunk area, and skate board wheels are mounted to the small tube frame that extends to pick up the fenders, which is very flimsy compared to the main frame, and if too much load is put on them you will easily buckle those subframe members and lift the fenders up out of whack.
 

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Awesome thread, and fantastic work.

I would be very interested in learning more about the MSD upgrade. The coils and energizers are a weak point in these cars.

Keep the information coming!
 

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if you can post the details of the invoice that would be great, and any pictures too. I see MSD coils in one of the pictures. Is there a MSD ignition box too, or what is behind those coils?

I'd say for an artist you are a pretty talented mechanic, that's some serious work my friend.
 

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decompiling that setup is something the community would certainly benefit from, thank you. I may let you borrow my LM Console in exchange for me taking a closer look at that setup :)

if the invoice shows the MSD Box # that would be helpful, the rest can wait.

cool setup, I looks like the OEM amplifiers are sitting right on top of the MSD box....very curious. Not an expert in this area either, but want to figure it out.
 

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if you don't mind, in the morning take a few more shots, I only see two boxes in your photo.

I am going to post an inquiry over on the MSD boards to see if I can get a tech to help me figure it out. I will post a thread when I do that.
 

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You are throwing 2, 3, 8, 11 and 12 on the left bank. That doesn't make sense as the TPS and battery voltage are one in the same (ie, not two batteries or two TPSs).

Are you sure codes are clearing? when you do the jumper, insert it, turn the key to on position without starting, and you should hear a click. Then remove jumper and turn key on 4 times and see if codes are clear.

if they are clear, and those codes are still on one side, I would
1) switch LIE's and see if the codes move from one bank to the other
2) check the two ground straps on the engine to frame (assuming you cleaned these up when you reinstalled engine).


on setting the idle: page 42 and 43, summarized as follows:
1) warm up engine until fans come on
2) close the two air bypass screws and make sure idle speed doesn't fall below 800-900 rpm. if you need to raise it, there is a screw encased in a holder that controls the butterfly positions, use that to balance the banks and keep idle around 900rpm.
3) now use the air bypass screws to raise idle to 1130 - 1180.
4) verify timing
5) set TPS (1.5 degrees or 0.5v)
6) Crack throttles open a little and ensure banks flow evenly

If you need the pages, let me know will scan.
 

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Yes, this is what I am doing to clear the codes. Funny thing is it worked for the left but not the right. The codes contradict themselves so they must be old codes. At least some of them. I will try your suggestions.
do you mean you clear the codes, then Before you start the engine, 4 clicks with the key and the codes are still there without starting the engine?
 

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Just these two and the coils. Yeah, and looking at the photos I noticed that there is a red wire coming out that is just cut! Looks like I've got some another thing to add to my list!
I wouldn't worry about that too much, there are numerous wires not used when I did MSD on my Jalpa. if you pull down the manual from the MSD site you can trace all the wires and that one is probably not used.
 

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re-do grounds, swap LIE's.

if the problem moves to the other bank of lights, lets pray its not a fried LIE.

is the LIE that tripping codes the same bank as the dirty cylinder head?
 

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Here's the info for the MSD ignition. Looks like it was MSD 6201 and MSD 8203 two of each. with a quick google search this appears to be about $700 worth of pars. Although looking at these online I see that they don't have the connectors on top like mine have. Geno was probably right that these are the OEM amplifiers. They appear to be siliconed on top of the MSD boxes.
6201 are the 6AL boxes and 8203 are the coils. makes sense.
 

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I am pretty close to figuring out your MSD setup.

Can you do me a favor? No rush.

There are 3 OEM wires that come from the OEM coil on the input side (your have been replaced with those blaster coils). Those three wires are probably connected to your MSD box (3 to each box).

On one coil, my colors for those three wires are:
Olive Green
Pink
Brown

On the other coil:
Red/White
Brown/white
Black

each set of three should be in a wrapped sheath

each set of 3 should go to one MSD box, and it WONT be connected to anything red or black.

Its probably connected to the wires coming out the MSD box that are Violet, Green or White. One might not be used.

Can you confirm which of these existing 3 wires are connected to which wire going into the MSD box?

your OEM three wires colors may be different, the wiring diagram I have shows different colors.
 

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Thank you Seth,

Yes, looks straightforward, trigger is coming off of the input wires to the existing coils.

agreed, not the grounds.

do you have the testing procedures to check out the LIE readings? you might run through all of those to verify the integrity of the LIE. If you don't have the PM me your email and I will send.
Geno
 

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The multi spark supposedly produces a more complete combustion. Also, although I really don't know, I have heard these are tunable and you can set a custom max rpm. I bought the car with this setup. Hopefully someone who knows more will chime in here.
You are right, much stronger spark.

I am not sure why the amplifiers fail, it could be that mounting them on the coil assembly makes too much heat, when you touch them after driving the car they are damn hot. I have thought about just removing them from the coil.

The MSD boxes do have an adjustable rev limiter but it wouldn't override the LIE, or rather you could set the rev limit on the MSD lower than the LIE setting but not higher. It is a useful valet function, or when letting your 22 year old son drive your car to set the rev limit to 3k :)
 

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I just finished rebuilding the heater valve in hopes that this is the culprit of my no heat/overheating issue and not a clogged heater core. I bought a rebuild kit on Amazon for an 80s-90s Merc. It is made by MTC part number 3065 ($15). Super simple job once you get it out from underneath the passenger side dash! As you can see in the picks the diaphragm is cracked so maybe that was the culprit. Has anyone else experienced this? I'll be putting it back in and testing in the next few weeks. Never really need heat hear in SoCal anyway.
My heater doesn't work well either, so I need to dig into this. You don't need to remove the dash do you?
 

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is that testing from the TPS?

Try running test #30 from the LIE, and see what you get, run same test from the TPS.

Also, pull the TPS off and run the test outlined on Lamboweb.

I have an extra TPS I can ship you if you want to try that. I also still owe you the wiring diagrams.

lastly, one of my TPS units had a "burr" on the face that makes to the throttle body that was preventing full/clean movement. Check mating surfaces to ensure smooth/complete movement.
 
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