1.reprogram the dash
2.bypass the egear relay
3.you will need to bypass the potentiometer
2.bypass the egear relay
3.you will need to bypass the potentiometer
2021 - Gallardo Manual Conversion issue(s) - Any advice?
So, a few years back a company built up my 04’ eGear to a twin turbo. They started the manual conversion and then went under. I lost a boatload of money on this deal but decided to have a company reassemble the car and complete the manual conversion.
I got the call last week that the car was completed. Well, put back together anyway. When you try to start the car the dash lights come on but the car won’t start. I’m running a Syvecs ECU and Ryan (from Syvecs) said the following to me
“The issue with the starter motor wont be due to the Syvecs it will be related to the Starter control looking for a Gear position of Park or Neutral from the Transmission ecu which is now removed
Unfortunately i dont have a way to fool that. Will need an electrician to most likely bypass the Gear isolator.”
Can anyone here lend any help, please?
it’s been over 3 years since this nightmare started. I just want a chance to finally drive my car.
I appreciate any info/help.
Thanks!
-Sam
I got the call last week that the car was completed. Well, put back together anyway. When you try to start the car the dash lights come on but the car won’t start. I’m running a Syvecs ECU and Ryan (from Syvecs) said the following to me
“The issue with the starter motor wont be due to the Syvecs it will be related to the Starter control looking for a Gear position of Park or Neutral from the Transmission ecu which is now removed
Unfortunately i dont have a way to fool that. Will need an electrician to most likely bypass the Gear isolator.”
Can anyone here lend any help, please?
it’s been over 3 years since this nightmare started. I just want a chance to finally drive my car.
I appreciate any info/help.
Thanks!
-Sam
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
I really appreciate the reply. I wasn’t aware that dash would need reprogramming as well.
Which potentiometer are you referring to?
Also, who could reprogram the dash?
Any chance you’d be willing to explain how to go about the steps you just mentioned? I thought all I had to do is trick the computer into thinking it was in neutral or park.
Again, I appreciate any info/help you’re willing to provide.
Thanks!
Which potentiometer are you referring to?
Also, who could reprogram the dash?
Any chance you’d be willing to explain how to go about the steps you just mentioned? I thought all I had to do is trick the computer into thinking it was in neutral or park.
Again, I appreciate any info/help you’re willing to provide.
Thanks!
is this the car IAP started?I really appreciate the reply. I wasn’t aware that dash would need reprogramming as well.
Which potentiometer are you referring to?
Also, who could reprogram the dash?
Any chance you’d be willing to explain how to go about the steps you just mentioned? I thought all I had to do is trick the computer into thinking it was in neutral or park.
Again, I appreciate any info/help you’re willing to provide.
Thanks!
need to reprogram the dash if you want all the lights to go away.
the potentiometer on back of the actuator from the egear unit.
that is correct you only need to trick the car to run but if you want the complete conversion and to work like oem you need to do the above.
That’s funny! So, how’d you know this was the IAP car? LOL!
I know this is a long shot but by chance do you a wiring diagram on how to trick the car into thinking it’s in neutral? I searched everywhere online and can’t believe that nobody posted one.
I plan on doing the things you mentioned as I don’t want a cluster with a bunch of lights on but before we get any further I just want to hear the car run and test everything out to make sure it was reassembled correctly.
Do you have any recommendations on who to use to reprogram the cluster? Is this something that has to be done by a dealership computer?
I thought I would’ve got more responses on here as I figured the manual conversions have become a little more popular.
The only reason I decided to do the conversion is because I was told the egear couldn’t handle the horsepower (currently setup for approx 1,600hp, but motor is supposed to be built to handle 2k plus) but after speaking to Hi-Tech Exotics, I was told I just needed the right clutch installed. IAP installed a Titan in mine and was told that was just as good. Guess that’s not the case - ugh! Honestly, I just wish I would’ve left the car stock. It’s coming up to 4 years since I’ve been able to drive my car. What a nightmare (and an expensive lesson to say the least).
Once again, any and all info is greatly appreciated! Thank you for your time my friend!
-Sam
I know this is a long shot but by chance do you a wiring diagram on how to trick the car into thinking it’s in neutral? I searched everywhere online and can’t believe that nobody posted one.
I plan on doing the things you mentioned as I don’t want a cluster with a bunch of lights on but before we get any further I just want to hear the car run and test everything out to make sure it was reassembled correctly.
Do you have any recommendations on who to use to reprogram the cluster? Is this something that has to be done by a dealership computer?
I thought I would’ve got more responses on here as I figured the manual conversions have become a little more popular.
The only reason I decided to do the conversion is because I was told the egear couldn’t handle the horsepower (currently setup for approx 1,600hp, but motor is supposed to be built to handle 2k plus) but after speaking to Hi-Tech Exotics, I was told I just needed the right clutch installed. IAP installed a Titan in mine and was told that was just as good. Guess that’s not the case - ugh! Honestly, I just wish I would’ve left the car stock. It’s coming up to 4 years since I’ve been able to drive my car. What a nightmare (and an expensive lesson to say the least).
Once again, any and all info is greatly appreciated! Thank you for your time my friend!
-Sam
its a decent amount of work to pull off the conversion properly. no one wants to give the complete recipe to do so because some of us spent time/money figuring these out and should be compensated for it. Ken reached out and i gave him the run down on what to do but obviously he didnt listen.
being the egear and manual is the same transmission whoemever told you the egear wouldnt handle the power is just not familiar with these cars. the transmission is good for about 900 before you start breaking internal parts. i dont have any of the wiring info saved unfortunately.
being the egear and manual is the same transmission whoemever told you the egear wouldnt handle the power is just not familiar with these cars. the transmission is good for about 900 before you start breaking internal parts. i dont have any of the wiring info saved unfortunately.
Egear and Manual are essentially the same in the very early models, with the 2 gearbox speed sensors.
When Graziano went over to the later Magnetti Marelli system, and one speed sensor, a number of changes were made. Most notably, you’ll find the AMT/MT interface is different - you won’t be able to simply bolt on the MT shifter assy like you were able to with the earlier cars.
Can’t tell you how many owners have stumbled into this on their own and ultimately decide to purchase a factory MT gearbox instead.
Re L140 gearbox strength - we see the transfer gears break on even factory power level cars if they are tracked. Catastrophic failure in the 600-700hp range on the street. Midplate comes next at 800-900 and forward gears themselves past 1200z
Kyle - hope the Huracan 2nd gear is treating you well. Stubs, full gearkits and another run of 2nd’s done soon!
Best,
John
When Graziano went over to the later Magnetti Marelli system, and one speed sensor, a number of changes were made. Most notably, you’ll find the AMT/MT interface is different - you won’t be able to simply bolt on the MT shifter assy like you were able to with the earlier cars.
Can’t tell you how many owners have stumbled into this on their own and ultimately decide to purchase a factory MT gearbox instead.
Re L140 gearbox strength - we see the transfer gears break on even factory power level cars if they are tracked. Catastrophic failure in the 600-700hp range on the street. Midplate comes next at 800-900 and forward gears themselves past 1200z
Kyle - hope the Huracan 2nd gear is treating you well. Stubs, full gearkits and another run of 2nd’s done soon!
Best,
John
for the matter of how much power the trans can handle.the gearboxes are the same.sensors and shift forks dont matter.Egear and Manual are essentially the same in the very early models, with the 2 gearbox speed sensors.
When Graziano went over to the later Magnetti Marelli system, and one speed sensor, a number of changes were made. Most notably, you’ll find the AMT/MT interface is different - you won’t be able to simply bolt on the MT shifter assy like you were able to with the earlier cars.
Can’t tell you how many owners have stumbled into this on their own and ultimately decide to purchase a factory MT gearbox instead.
Re L140 gearbox strength - we see the transfer gears break on even factory power level cars if they are tracked. Catastrophic failure in the 600-700hp range on the street. Midplate comes next at 800-900 and forward gears themselves past 1200z
Kyle - hope the Huracan 2nd gear is treating you well. Stubs, full gearkits and another run of 2nd’s done soon!
Best,
John
Lots of great info here - Thanks!
Right now my #1 concern is how to trick the car into thinking it's in neutral so we can at least start the car and go through things.
If anyone is willing to send me a diagram on how to wire this I would be more than happy to compensate them for their time.
Thanks again!
-Sam
Right now my #1 concern is how to trick the car into thinking it's in neutral so we can at least start the car and go through things.
If anyone is willing to send me a diagram on how to wire this I would be more than happy to compensate them for their time.
Thanks again!
-Sam
Egear and Manual are essentially the same in the very early models, with the 2 gearbox speed sensors.
When Graziano went over to the later Magnetti Marelli system, and one speed sensor, a number of changes were made. Most notably, you’ll find the AMT/MT interface is different - you won’t be able to simply bolt on the MT shifter assy like you were able to with the earlier cars.
Can’t tell you how many owners have stumbled into this on their own and ultimately decide to purchase a factory MT gearbox instead.
Re L140 gearbox strength - we see the transfer gears break on even factory power level cars if they are tracked. Catastrophic failure in the 600-700hp range on the street. Midplate comes next at 800-900 and forward gears themselves past 1200z
Kyle - hope the Huracan 2nd gear is treating you well. Stubs, full gearkits and another run of 2nd’s done soon!
Best,
John
Welcome to the forum John.. we haven't done any business... yet
I reside in N Texas
I have heard good things in regards to your gearboxes and other parts.
Good info posted here.
Just a shameless bump to get this post back on the top with the hopes that someone might be able to help me to get my starter to engage.
After spending a lot of time trying to complete the eGear to manual conversion, the car (2004 TT Gallardo) is finally back together but, she won't turn over.
I've been told by some very nice people on here that I need to wire the car's computer to basically "trick" the computer into thinking it's in neutral so the starter will engage.
If anyone here is willing to provide a wiring diagram or step by step instructions, I would be more than happy to pay you for your time/help.
It's been approximately 4 years since I've been able to drive my car and a nightmare of an experience to say the least. Not too mention that I've already paid another company complete this project before they closed their doors and left my car in parts.
Now that she's finally all back together and summer is here, it's killing me not to be able to drive it. I just wish this nightmare would end once and for all.
Again, any help/info. would be appreciated more than you know.
Thanks!
-Sam
After spending a lot of time trying to complete the eGear to manual conversion, the car (2004 TT Gallardo) is finally back together but, she won't turn over.
I've been told by some very nice people on here that I need to wire the car's computer to basically "trick" the computer into thinking it's in neutral so the starter will engage.
If anyone here is willing to provide a wiring diagram or step by step instructions, I would be more than happy to pay you for your time/help.
It's been approximately 4 years since I've been able to drive my car and a nightmare of an experience to say the least. Not too mention that I've already paid another company complete this project before they closed their doors and left my car in parts.
Now that she's finally all back together and summer is here, it's killing me not to be able to drive it. I just wish this nightmare would end once and for all.
Again, any help/info. would be appreciated more than you know.
Thanks!
-Sam
Still looking for some help/info.
Has anyone been able to figure out the following:
1.reprogram the dash
2.bypass the eGear relay
3.you will need to bypass the potentiometer
Any info would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
-Sam
Has anyone been able to figure out the following:
1.reprogram the dash
2.bypass the eGear relay
3.you will need to bypass the potentiometer
Any info would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
-Sam
Well, I'm finally picking up my Gallardo tomorrow morning (but I'll be pushing into my trailer - ugh!).
A local shop reassembled the car for me and completed the eGear to manual conversion for me (which I already paid another company to complete) but, they couldn't figure out how to complete the wiring so the car would start. In all fairness, the shop that reassembled car doesn't usually do this kind of work. The owner of the shop just did the reassembly to help me out.
So, it's my understanding that I need to do the following (thanks to Kyle @ CFI Designs for the info!)
1. Bypass the eGear relay
2. Bypass eGear potentiometer on back of actuator (by adding a resistor?)
3. Reprogram the cluster
First, does anyone have any recommendations on who to use to reprogram my dash? I assume that I could just sent out my cluster, right?
I was also told that I would need to add a resistor to the actuator's potentiometer. Does anyone have any idea exactly where the resistor would go?
As for bypassing the eGear relay, I guess it just has to be grounded. Can anyone lend any advice on exactly how that's done?
I realize that those that have already successfully completed a manual conversion have spend a great deal of time figuring everything out. That being said, "if" anyone is able to help me get my car to actually start, I would be more than happy to fairly compensate them for their time (ex. PayPal, Venmo, etc.).
After 4 longggg years.... I'm "almost" there - LOL! It's been an absolute nightmare from the start! I'm praying that someone here will be able to help me out.
For those of you wanting to do the same conversion, I highly recommend going with a company that has a been around for a while, has a great reputation and has completed many conversions in the past. This clearly isn't a job that any shop can handle.
Thanks!
-Sam
A local shop reassembled the car for me and completed the eGear to manual conversion for me (which I already paid another company to complete) but, they couldn't figure out how to complete the wiring so the car would start. In all fairness, the shop that reassembled car doesn't usually do this kind of work. The owner of the shop just did the reassembly to help me out.
So, it's my understanding that I need to do the following (thanks to Kyle @ CFI Designs for the info!)
1. Bypass the eGear relay
2. Bypass eGear potentiometer on back of actuator (by adding a resistor?)
3. Reprogram the cluster
First, does anyone have any recommendations on who to use to reprogram my dash? I assume that I could just sent out my cluster, right?
I was also told that I would need to add a resistor to the actuator's potentiometer. Does anyone have any idea exactly where the resistor would go?
As for bypassing the eGear relay, I guess it just has to be grounded. Can anyone lend any advice on exactly how that's done?
I realize that those that have already successfully completed a manual conversion have spend a great deal of time figuring everything out. That being said, "if" anyone is able to help me get my car to actually start, I would be more than happy to fairly compensate them for their time (ex. PayPal, Venmo, etc.).
After 4 longggg years.... I'm "almost" there - LOL! It's been an absolute nightmare from the start! I'm praying that someone here will be able to help me out.
For those of you wanting to do the same conversion, I highly recommend going with a company that has a been around for a while, has a great reputation and has completed many conversions in the past. This clearly isn't a job that any shop can handle.
Thanks!
-Sam
Sorry to hear that you're going through a lot of issues. You didn't have to convert it to a manual because we have a 2,000 hp E-gear clutch. The previous company wanted to sell you their clutch. I would have referred you to Jason Giannetti in NY(You're in NY, right?). He's very knowledgeable but I hear he has moved. If it's possible, you should convert it back to E-gear. You might have more issues in the future.Well, I'm finally picking up my Gallardo tomorrow morning (but I'll be pushing into my trailer - ugh!).
A local shop reassembled the car for me and completed the eGear to manual conversion for me (which I already paid another company to complete) but, they couldn't figure out how to complete the wiring so the car would start. In all fairness, the shop that reassembled car doesn't usually do this kind of work. The owner of the shop just did the reassembly to help me out.
So, it's my understanding that I need to do the following (thanks to Kyle @ CFI Designs for the info!)
1. Bypass the eGear relay
2. Bypass eGear potentiometer on back of actuator (by adding a resistor?)
3. Reprogram the cluster
First, does anyone have any recommendations on who to use to reprogram my dash? I assume that I could just sent out my cluster, right?
I was also told that I would need to add a resistor to the actuator's potentiometer. Does anyone have any idea exactly where the resistor would go?
As for bypassing the eGear relay, I guess it just has to be grounded. Can anyone lend any advice on exactly how that's done?
I realize that those that have already successfully completed a manual conversion have spend a great deal of time figuring everything out. That being said, "if" anyone is able to help me get my car to actually start, I would be more than happy to fairly compensate them for their time (ex. PayPal, Venmo, etc.).
After 4 longggg years.... I'm "almost" there - LOL! It's been an absolute nightmare from the start! I'm praying that someone here will be able to help me out.
For those of you wanting to do the same conversion, I highly recommend going with a company that has a been around for a while, has a great reputation and has completed many conversions in the past. This clearly isn't a job that any shop can handle.
Thanks!
-Sam
Try asking “oilbrothers” on ig. He manual converted his single turbo gallardoWell, I'm finally picking up my Gallardo tomorrow morning (but I'll be pushing into my trailer - ugh!).
A local shop reassembled the car for me and completed the eGear to manual conversion for me (which I already paid another company to complete) but, they couldn't figure out how to complete the wiring so the car would start. In all fairness, the shop that reassembled car doesn't usually do this kind of work. The owner of the shop just did the reassembly to help me out.
So, it's my understanding that I need to do the following (thanks to Kyle @ CFI Designs for the info!)
1. Bypass the eGear relay
2. Bypass eGear potentiometer on back of actuator (by adding a resistor?)
3. Reprogram the cluster
First, does anyone have any recommendations on who to use to reprogram my dash? I assume that I could just sent out my cluster, right?
I was also told that I would need to add a resistor to the actuator's potentiometer. Does anyone have any idea exactly where the resistor would go?
As for bypassing the eGear relay, I guess it just has to be grounded. Can anyone lend any advice on exactly how that's done?
I realize that those that have already successfully completed a manual conversion have spend a great deal of time figuring everything out. That being said, "if" anyone is able to help me get my car to actually start, I would be more than happy to fairly compensate them for their time (ex. PayPal, Venmo, etc.).
After 4 longggg years.... I'm "almost" there - LOL! It's been an absolute nightmare from the start! I'm praying that someone here will be able to help me out.
For those of you wanting to do the same conversion, I highly recommend going with a company that has a been around for a while, has a great reputation and has completed many conversions in the past. This clearly isn't a job that any shop can handle.
Thanks!
-Sam
I finally figured everything out (thanks to a good man named Peter).
Now my wife is making me sell it - LOL!
Now my wife is making me sell it - LOL!
Hi, do you still have the car?
I went through a similar situation with my TT. It's nearly 1500HP and I kept the E-Gear in my car. I would love to hear your story. It took me 5 years to build this car and she is running great!!
LMK if you can chat or still have your car.
I went through a similar situation with my TT. It's nearly 1500HP and I kept the E-Gear in my car. I would love to hear your story. It took me 5 years to build this car and she is running great!!
LMK if you can chat or still have your car.
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