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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi All,

driving on the freeway, seeing huge oil smoke on the right hand side of the engine, after removal of the air box there is a lot of e-gear oil in the vicinity of the actuator which got on the exhaust however the high pressure "banjo" fitting hoses seem intact and dry. the low pressure return hose fitting however appears loose (it has a o-ring and is held into the actuator housing with a simple clamp).

this seems to be a likely culprit for the leak. i have not been able to verify that yet because i cannot get the system pressurized any more. here my questions for the experts:

-have you seen this happen (ie leak from the low pressure return hose)
-if yes, does magnet marelli sell these as spares and / or can they be sourced elsewhere ?
-does it appear likely that there is a internal leak causing the high pressure to leak to the low pressure side?

many thanks for your help. (see attached photo, red arrow denotes fitting that appears loose)
291287

see attached photo..

Reiner
 

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You should refill the e-gear system and put it through some shifts to verify the source of the leak. As far as the return line, it is a generic oil hose and not under pressure. The fitting has an o-ring that should also be replaced. If it is the actuator, there are options to rebuild, but check prices for a new actuator through eurospares, scuderia, etc. first for context.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i have not been able to bleed the system yet - following the instructions here and elsewhere so maybe this is due to the system having the leak in the first place. in any case, i will definitely replace that o-ring , try again and if not successful send the system out for rebuild. i was just trying to figure out if anyone on here had something similar happen that was NOT related to the high pressure hoses leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks again for your answer Chris. I read a few more threads/posts on this topic especially your initial comments on the exact bleed procedure. I still cant get my e-gear to bleed correctly. apparently it is possible that the "innards" of the actuator gave out and pressure is pushed through the o-ring at the low pressure hose fitting. this could cause the leak and then it's time for a rebuild. i want to confirm this is so...

can you (or someone else) please once again confirm..

i get the sequence of events to activate the pump, shift etc. and bleed but there are three bleed points.

-the one closest to the reservoir
-one above the transmission (assume throwout bearing)
-three small screws below the actuator

can you confirm all of these need to be bled?
to get to the ones below the actuator, it has to be removed.

many thanks for your inputs, would appreciate
 

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If you are bleeding the actuator, you only need to bleed using the screws under the actuator. The other bleed points are for the clutch, on top of the transaxle, and the solenoid manifold, in front of the right rear wheel. These should be ok even if you remove and replace the actuator. These screws do not come all the way out and no fluid should come out of them either. They open an internal passage to facilitate bleeding, which is done back through the return line. I believe you give the screws two full turns, 720deg. You should not be leaking fluid anywhere while bleeding.

I would open these bleed screws and shift down to R and up through 6 a time or two and then let it sit for a while, at least an hour, then do again. Ignition on, engine off, foot on brake should allow shifting. You do not need a computer or two people, although my experience is just with pre-LP. Two or three bleeds should be enough but you can do an extra to make sure. There will likely be very fine air bubbles entrained in the egear fluid in the reservoir, which make the fluid look cloudy. Waiting an hour or so between bleeds lets these bubbles rise and come out of the fluid. Make sure you have plenty of fluid when bleeding.

I check the fluid level in the reservoir by opening the door (pump comes on), turning ignition on keeping engine off (pump may come on a little more) and then seeing that the fluid is just covering the white disk at the bottom of the reservoir. It should look almost empty at this point because when you shut the system off, fluid under pressure seeps from the storage battery (black ball/bomb) back into the reservoir and needs space in which to do this. If you over fill, excess fluid will just escape from the hole in the cap as it seeks the correct level.

During this procedure, you may get fluid from the return hose if that is leaking. It may not be your only leak, but the return can be fixed with a new oring and new hose.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for this very detailed response, I really appreciate your help. I was able to bleed the system this afternoon. it was actually enough to just pressure bleed (using a hand held vacuum bleeder) from the top bleed screw next to the reservoir. after the second time the pump stopped running and i was able to shift fine.

it appears the o-ring seal on the low pressure return hose was chewed up. I replaced it with another o-ring however i could not find one with perfect fit. not sure if anyone knows where magnet marelli parts can be sourced?

anyways the problem is now reproducible, where pressurized oil squirts out from the low pressure return fitting. either i have a problem with the o-ring replacement, or the unit is broken internally and needs rebuild. i will try to find an exact o-ring replacement but i have the feeling this will happen either way.
 

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Maybe contact this place for right size O ring.

They seem to be familiar servicing actuators.


 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
wanted to give you all a quick update. bought a replacement actuator, installed it, also replaced one of the high pressure hoses, bled the system from the top bleed valve (next to reservoir), opening the door runs the pump for a short time which is good, no more leaks which is great, system shifts up to 6th and down to reverse but when it gets to 1 i get the pump running for a long time and all gears blink so i think that means we still have air trapped.

tried to do the manual bleed method with vacuum bleeder, two people one shifts reverse to neutral back to reverse one bleeds, did this about 15 times still the same problem. before i flatbed the car to a lambo shop, does anyone have more ideas what could be tried?

thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i just re-read Chris's post once more. I think this is where i went wrong, i never opened the screws underneath the actuator.. will try this next!
 

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Modena, sounds like a tedious process. Thanks for documenting this for the rest of us. FWIW, I agree that it sounds like you missed a bleed screw. Hope this last one does the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
hmm... tried the bleeder screws on the actuator this afternoon. after a few cycles no success.. i will wait until tomorrow and try this some more but now i have the e-gear warning (large zigzag icon) on the dash.. not sure why? maybe because the actuator is disconnected from the gearbox ad/or i was running low on battery power for a short while.
anyways this has been FRUSTRATING. will keep you posted.
 

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Bleeding should be a single person process. Open the bleed screws two full turns, but with no leaking fluid. Shifting will then push the air out of the actuator back to the reservoir. I never used a vacuum pump or let any fluid escape. Also, you need the position sensors connected via the cable on the actuator.
 

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hmm... tried the bleeder screws on the actuator this afternoon. after a few cycles no success.. i will wait until tomorrow and try this some more but now i have the e-gear warning (large zigzag icon) on the dash.. not sure why? maybe because the actuator is disconnected from the gearbox ad/or i was running low on battery power for a short while.
anyways this has been FRUSTRATING. will keep you posted.
How much pressure do you have in the system? Are you losing pressure?
 

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Modena,
The more I ruminate on your quandary the more I think electrical issue is at hand. I am not an expert on the actuator or the system but I think you want to ensure you have ample voltage and correct non-corroded ground. good luck
 
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