Lamborghini Talk banner
1 - 20 of 42 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 2007 Murcielago Spyder that had been sitting for a While. Car sometimes starts sometimes not. I’m on my second new battery. This one I put in 12.4 volts started right up (Diehard AGM $260 Battery Plus special ordered) . I shut the shutoff off and plugged in my trickle charger next day it would not start and my volts are under 12?(11.7-11.8) is there a special battery ?
I cant seem to keep the volts above 12.

I know this sounds strange but when i turn the key do i keep turning the key or wait 2 seconds then continue or wait til everything stops making noise? I have been told all 3?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,594 Posts
If you want to rule out any issues with the correct procedure to start the car, before you open the door and get in, lock the car, and then unlock it. Then get in right away and try to start it. If it won't start after doing that, then you know it's not a procedural issue.

I had flakey starting behavior, and eventually a no-start issue, due the alarm module slowly dying and then being completely dead. Long thread here: No start, and strange alarm system behavior

How are you measuring voltage? There's definitely nothing special about the battery other than its form factor. Very strange that charging overnight would result in a lower voltage, which is why I ask about how you are measuring the voltage. Even with a dying battery, you will usually get good voltage after a charge, but it won't hold it under load. Since your battery is new, it doesn't seem like it's the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Depending on how your charger is setup, I believe with the Engine Bay Knob set to OFF position it won't charge the battery. You may need to turn the knob to ON position and then charge. Best to use Ctek chargers on these cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,594 Posts
Depending on how your charger is setup, I believe with the Engine Bay Knob set to OFF position it won't charge the battery. You may need to turn the knob to ON position and then charge. Best to use Ctek chargers on these cars.
Mine charging dongle is attached directly to the battery, and I believe this is factory because the previous owner didn't change anything on my car. So it will charge even with the kill switch in the engine bay off. Connecting straight to the battery terminals is normal for trickle chargers. Since the OP has changed batteries, he's probably seen how his charge dongle is connected.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mine charging dongle is attached directly to the battery, and I believe this is factory because the previous owner didn't change anything on my car. So it will charge even with the kill switch in the engine bay off. Connecting straight to the battery terminals is normal for trickle chargers. Since the OP has changed batteries, he's probably seen how his charge dongle is connected.
Its connected directly to battery from factory, I’m using a 12v , 3 amp battery charger/ battery tender.
When I turn on the key the dash voltage reads 12-12.3 then when everything is going , I wait 2 seconds and then turn key rest of the way. It then read s. 11.4-11.8 and does nothing i have cycled this 4 times , i have also tried turning the key immeaditly and also waited to everything quieted down and turned the key.
Bud
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Its connected directly to battery from factory, I’m using a 12v , 3 amp battery charger/ battery tender.
When I turn on the key the dash voltage reads 12-12.3 then when everything is going , I wait 2 seconds and then turn key rest of the way. It then read s. 11.4-11.8 and does nothing i have cycled this 4 times , i have also tried turning the key immeaditly and also waited to everything quieted down and turned the key.

I also did what Stimpy said to do with door locks. Looks like the light for alarm between but behind the seats shuts off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
You could try cycling the Egear system to Neutral


1) disarm alarm
2) turn key to position 2
3) press down on brake pedal and then holding Left and Right paddle shifters back. Dash should show N symbol.
4) then turn key to start the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Typically if the alarm is Armed, you disarm, open door, put key in ignition, wait 3 seconds, and then start engine.

One other thing you can test is to make sure the alarm is working properly ?

1) Make sure front hood, engine bonnet, and all doors are closed
2) Arm the alarm with remote Lock Key Button
3) Wait 2 minutes and then disarm the alarm with Unlock Key Button.
4) At this point Don't open any doors, wait 20 minutes
5) Next, Open the Drivers door, you should hear the alarm siren..
6) Keep the door open, Disarm the alarm with Unlock Key button. you should hear a long chirp indicating alarm is off
7) Get in the car and close door. Put the key in the ignition, turn key to position 2, you should see dash lights, egear set to N, you should hear a loud fan sound, put foot on the brake pedal and Try to start the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,594 Posts
If you're getting a no crank condition, and you want to rule out the alarm system, follow the instructions in that link of mine above, and jumper pins 8 and 18 on the alarm module connector and then try to crank it. The engine won't start because the fuel valves will remain closed, but at least you can reliably determine if the alarm is preventing the engine from cranking with this fairly easy test.
 

·
Registered
2007 LP640 Balloon White
Joined
·
179 Posts
Reiterating that the engine cover must be closed...given that that's where the trickle charger plugs in (at least in my car) I keep the lid "down" but not clicked shut since I'll have to raise it anyway to unplug the charger. I had a no crank condition until I discovered that I hadn't fully closed the engine lid. Not to take anything away from earlier comments but In my experience there is not a critical starting procedure. I unlock the car, open the door, get in, close the door and turn the key...never have an issue. Best of luck in solving this, we can all relate to moments like this from one issue or another.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I ve tried all these suggestion, alarm is set then goes off, Hood is closed , shutoff is on . When i turn on key there seems to be a lot going on. I was told to wait till everything stops to turn key from #2 position to start. When i first turn key to #2 position the voltage on the dash says 12-12.2 then once everything cycles (5 seconds) voltage readout on dash drops to 11.5-11.7 and then i turn key and nothing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Its very possible that the Egear is incorrectly reading it at Neutral (N). You could try flipping the gears 1 thru 5 and then bringing it back to (N). To do that, turn the key to position 2, put foot on brake peddle, Press the right paddle shifter 5 times and watch the gears go to 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5. Then hit (R) button for reverse, and then hold left and right paddles to put it into Neutral. Now try starting the car.

The 12.2v on initial cluster is normal, when you turn the key to start the engine it will draw the volts down to aprox 11.7v which should get the starter going. If you turn the key and it still doesn't start that means the starter motor or starter solenoid has gone bad. Its a common issue on the Murcielago.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Any links on how to change starter and solenoid and where to get one? If this was a regular car I would say it was the solenoid. I have a lift but can barley see the starter.
Bud
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,594 Posts
Any links on how to change starter and solenoid and where to get one? If this was a regular car I would say it was the solenoid. I have a lift but can barley see the starter.
Bud
It could be the starter. The solenoid is part of the starter, like on most modern cars, so the whole starter has to come out to replace the solenoid. You can buy the solenoid for $20 online.

But I was convinced it was my starter too when I had a no crank condition, and I was planning to change it when I checked more into the alarm. Fortunately, I didn't change the starter and still end up with a car that wouldn't start because the problem was elsewhere.

It's always better to do the easy things first, so if I were you, I would bypass the alarm module to confirm that isn't the problem, especially after my recent experience.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Any one know where I can get or have the starter rebuilt? From working on it today with a friend we both think the starter has a dead spot.... some times it takes 3 times trying to turn over some times 7 , but it sounds like the starter advances (clicks) a little each time then all of a sudden the next time it turns over and starts,
bud
 
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top