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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a situation that has baffled me almost to the point of desperation. 2004G visited dealer over the winter to catch up on some recall campaigns, and while there I was advised that "MAP sensor was bad and causing car to run rough, so should be replaced". They quoted me $700 parts and labor, and I chuckled a bit and told them I was pretty sure I could take care of that one on my own (in the end I bought the identical Bosche MAP online from an Audi parts place for $39, and paid myself the $661 to take the two screws out).

I brought the car back in March (ran fine; had not changed the MAP yet) and since the weather was not conducive to driving (upstate NY) snuggled her into the garage to hibernate until Spring. Pulled her out in late May, and she ran fine. A day or two later, I took her out again, and this time got the CEL 1-5 light, and she was running quite poorly. This has happened before as I'm sure you all have experienced, so I shut it down and restarted. Got the green OK self-diagnostic, but 1 minute later, the CEL beeped back up with the same 1-5 light.

Figured it was time to change out the MAP. Performed the exhaustive procedure to replace said sensor, but didn't remedy the issue. Check OK at startup, but 1-5 came right back up after 1 minute. A hand placed at the exhaust confirmed no combustion occurring on the 1-5 bank.

Currently, I am reading the following codes on my OBDII reader: P0131 (O2 sensor locked lean - front), P0137 (O2 sensor locked lean - rear), P0226 (functional check - component found failed / drive by wire system), P1227 (throttle malfunction, bank 2), P0105 ( MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE / BAROMETRIC PRESSURE / Functional check / Comparison between manifold absolute pressure and barometric pressure > 30 mmH), and P1366 (Intake valve variable timing control). From lamboweb, I obviously have the definitions, but several are a bit vague, and most would appear to be related to the failure of half the cylinders firing, but what could be the cause of the system shutting down half the bloody engine in the first place?

Already purchased a fresh set of plugs (the updated version that seems to be the concensus here, and printed out gvan's synopsis of his plug swap - thank you for posting that, kind sir), a new set of coils, a couple O2 sensors, and a Partidge in a Pear Tree. Have not had time to commence replacing said parts as of yet, but I put them on the floor on the passengers side hoping it would make her feel better at least for now. In the interest of conserving time, I'd like to take the most logical approach here with regard to order of part replacement based on others' experiences; would greatly appreciate feedback, input and any and all suggestions (related to the issues with the vehicle, that is).

Specifically, has anyone else experienced complete shutdown of one side of the engine like this for an extended period of time? Thanks to all in advance.
 

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I think something failed in your intake, causing the bank unable to start

Search those codes on the forum and google to see if you find any leads

A shot gun approach in swapping parts will only cause you more time and money. Research on cause before you proceed. If no leads, I would take it to the pro but find a good shop.
 

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What is missing on your list are the exhaust temperature sensors and control module. The 04 have the older control modules that have been upgraded from 06 on. On my 06 a temps sensor died and has thrown an error. But on the older modules the ECU sees bad values and believes that there is something wrong with the bank. The local lambo tech tell every 04 owners to upgrade to the new module.

IMHO there is always some carbon residue on those sensors that may cause faulty readings. I'd take them out and put them into carburator cleaner for a while before I change them. Not that easy to get to them but maybe worth to clean the things a little.
 

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But he's saying that he is not getting any exhaust from that bank....Which sounds totally off. This means there's no combustion.... so either no fuel, no spark from the coil packs. Having all cyl in that bank not fire is the 1st time I've heard.

I had an inconsistent exhaust on that bank once.. but that was Because of a faulty fuel nozzle. But that was 1 cyl only.

I'll be watching this post keenly to know what happened.
 

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Homm, one bank is totally out of duty ... I'd pul lthe wires from the battery for a few minutes to make sure the ECU starts from scratch. Then start the car and see how she behaves. If idle is more or less ok and at least 750rpm then let her idle for 5 Mins to relearn the first cycle. I wonder if the error still exists then.

BTW does anybody now right away if the two fuel pumps serve both banks the same time or individually ?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys - really appreciate the input. It really is the damndest thing - never had this happen before. Going to go out today and disconnect the batt as Robby3 suggested and will lyk the result.
 

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That is a lot of codes to have at one time. I wonder if you have a connector that is going bad or loose.

My car sometimes after driving in heavy raid would get the 1-5 or the 6-10 cat overtemp light. It would sometimes shut the car off due to this if you were stopped.

On mine it was the wiring connector that goes to the temp senors that when water would get in there it would cause the false readings.

The MAP sensor is used by both banks, that would effect both not just one side of the engine.
 

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The v10 runs like two 5 cylinders. There are two sets of electronics, fuses.

I would check the fuses under pax dash. Pay special attention to relays under the Carpet panel behind the seats.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ravill, yes I did replace the MAP - third paragraph in my original post, though I realize it was an exhaustive read; sorry about the volume of that post, just trying to get as much info out as possible.
 

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The v10 runs like two 5 cylinders. There are two sets of electronics, fuses.

I would check the fuses under pax dash. Pay special attention to relays under the Carpet panel behind the seats.
^^ This .... i think should be your #1 check. It is very odd to not have any combustion in the entire bank ... unless its an electronic issue. If its a fuse/relay ... then you r lucky!

good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, spent a couple hours today going through some logical test procedures to clear the ECU, including disconnecting the battery, waiting 10 mins and reconnecting battery; no change. Read codes again on OBD2 and erased; all came back within 90 seconds. Was concerned that battery was getting old as I was feeling like it wasnt cranking as rapidly as it used to, so replaced with brand spanking new Optima Red Top and repeated all aforementioned procedures; no change.

Robgreg75, I have experienced the bank cat lights on numerous occasions due to rain or washing, but I can't recall if it killed the power like it is now - literally have no turbo punch kicking in at the higher end of the tach in each gear like you would normally expect; it's like only half the engine is there, and whereas I used to simply restart the car to clear it, this will not reset. SO - I like your idea; it does seem logical that thr wiring connector that goes to temp sensors could be the culprit. Is there a diagram cache somewhere on this forum that would help me locate it?

djantlive and BTfd2e93, I was planning on checking all fuses / relays tomorrow morning; thank you for the input regarding relays behind seats - don't have a wiring diagram so wasn't sure where to look. Will report back on the outcome there. I would never be so happy to have it be a blown fuse or a corroded connector!
 

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When you experienced problems with water then you may have defective isolations of any wires or connectors that cause shorts. Check the wire harnesses as good as possible and disconnect connectors to inspect for any water or dirt in them. Also blow them out or use contact cleaner spray. It's possible that the contacts start to corrode when not sealed well.

I think I once read something about bad wires or connectors here on the board.

Do you have the workshop manual. If not do a search for the download link in the forum. It can easily be found :)
 

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Robgreg75, I have experienced the bank cat lights on numerous occasions due to rain or washing, but I can't recall if it killed the power like it is now - literally have no turbo punch kicking in at the higher end of the tach in each gear like you would normally expect; it's like only half the engine is there, and whereas I used to simply restart the car to clear it, this will not reset. SO - I like your idea; it does seem logical that thr wiring connector that goes to temp sensors could be the culprit. Is there a diagram cache somewhere on this forum that would help me locate it?
You have to remove the black plastic panels on the sides of the engine bay, I have left mine permanetly off. I will try to take a photo tonight of the location of the connector that was the issue on mine. After you take off the covers it is on the underside of a frame rail.
 

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Ok, I see that you did change it out.

Of note, the really weird checks coming up are the variable valve sensor and the barometric pressure readings >30.

If a valve sensor is off and you are sucking in air, or not opening valves at all then this could explain a lot of the issues on that side.

It could explain why you're O2 sensors are "locked lean".

How about that timing sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Robby3, I couldn't agree more. I did a search here, but some of the links appear broken or outdated. I did find the $10 ebay version and downloaded that; wiring diagram is very thorough, but the digital format is a real PITA to chase. Is helful to identify a couple target areas though.

Robgreg75, I will take those covers off today and see if I can locate the connector you are referring to; would much appreciate a photo if and when you have time to take one. Really hoping this is the culprit.

Ravill, the barometric pressure code really throws me off, since that would seem to be attributed to the MAP, and I did just change that out. From what I've been able to tell, the variable valve timing codes really shouldn't be the cause of any of this - from threads here they seem pretty much just diagnostic.

Still fighting...will keep you guys updated; and thanks again.
 

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The connector is were I am pointing. It is easiest to remove the 2 bolts (silver metal bracket holding it in picture) that hold the wire bundle in front of it and move it out of the way.
 
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