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Discussion Starter #1
Earlier this year I bought/rescued an '04 6speed Gallardo (something I've wanted since they came out, well before I had the means to pursue one) and have been catching it up on some deferred maintenance and generally trying to put things back right from being "lambro-ed" a bit. After an entertaining start, I'm down to about 3 warnings: marker lights, brake wear warning, and a CEL for what I think translates to the intake VVT misbehaving.

The codes point to the intake side VVT valves on both banks. Is this a common issue? Are there any things I should test before just throwing parts at it? I have the shop manual but it is, how you say, "useless" with respect to troubleshooting flow. lol. I've been spoiled with Honda/Acura literature.

Thanks in advance, I've lurked these forums for years and there is a wealth of knowledge here.
 

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I just recently bought an ‘06 and twice now, a bit more than 1 week apart, it has thrown CEL with codes 1366 and 1368, which is intake VVT on banks 1 & 2 respectively.

First time it happened, it went away the next AM, and my performance shop put it on the real-time computer and everything looked spot on, so we dismissed the codes as phantom.

After that, I drove the car to Vegas and back (4 hours each way through desert & mountain 90+ heat) and not a hint of trouble.

Almost exactly 1 week later, on the same uphill road, the car did exactly the same thing. After confirming the codes were the same, I cleared them myself last night, and today no issues.

I had done a little research the first time it happened and I found a couple others who had posted that “ghost codes” like this can happen now and then.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the data point! These codes, like yours, have been on and off a bit, but definitely more persistent in my case vs what you describe. If I'm interpreting the diagrams correctly the offending valves are not hard to get to or expensive (relatively). I just want to make sure it's not something seemingly unrelated like a vacuum line out of place or some potential oil flow issue that I really need to be concerned about.
 

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On the break-pad wear: you'll find a lot of posts on how to fix it. I fixed mine in the spring (bad connector on RF), then it came on again two weeks ago. This time it was a broken wire in the LF harness.

Some advise: always wait until the light is on continuously, otherwise it is hard to find an intermittent fault.

Basically this fault will in my mind always come back, because they use 22-gage wire
 

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Discussion Starter #5
On the break-pad wear: you'll find a lot of posts on how to fix it. I fixed mine in the spring (bad connector on RF), then it came on again two weeks ago. This time it was a broken wire in the LF harness.

Some advise: always wait until the light is on continuously, otherwise it is hard to find an intermittent fault.

Basically this fault will in my mind always come back, because they use 22-gage wire
Thanks for the info, that's what I was afraid of. I'd debated just defeating the sensors somehow to turn the light off. I'm a track nerd so I'll give myself a little credit in not being oblivious enough to wear pads to the backing plates without knowing it. :)
 

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I agree with your philosophy: even tho I don't track my cars anymore, I check the pads at least at every oil change. Also, although i was able to find replacement front pads with sensors, I would have had to go OEM (~ $800) for the rears, so I bypassed those anyway.

There are two ways to bypass:
1. Under the dash (there are a couple of threads here how to do that)
2. AT the left-front wheel (connect pin 1 to ground)

Method #1 is surer because with #2 you still have the chance that the wire from the ECU to LF breaks.
 

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You might want to search for Audi V8s having the same valve issues since this engine is based off the audi V8s.
 

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My 06 car just threw the same 2 VVT CEL codes today for the 3rd time... with my wife and I driving back from the same mall each time, on that same road, in the same spot each time, after buying something at LV... each time.

I’ve driven ALONE on that same road with no new LV products inside the car at least twice.... and no CEL.

*cue the theme from The X Files*
 

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The truth is out there.....

Plug in an OBDII code reader and read the Freeze Frame conditions where the codes were set. Obviously they will be the same or similar, but the temps, throttle position, O2 readings etc may give you a clue.

(probably can't detect LV presence though)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My 06 car just threw the same 2 VVT CEL codes today for the 3rd time... with my wife and I driving back from the same mall each time, on that same road, in the same spot each time, after buying something at LV... each time.

I’ve driven ALONE on that same road with no new LV products inside the car at least twice.... and no CEL.

*cue the theme from The X Files*
I swear mechanical jealously is real. The number of times I'm working on one car and a minimum of one other decides to "throw a fit" is uncanny, lol.
 

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I had that happen once as well: I test-drove a 240Z way long ago (when they just came out) and my 67 Mustang overheated on the drive back from the dealer due to being low on coolant. No leaks, no drips anywhere, pressure-tested the system: all was fine. Never happened again.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Updating the thread here: Normally I don't just throw parts at a problem, but I found a screaming deal on some new VVT Solenoids/Valves. I replaced both intake-side valves concurrent with an oil change to make sure it wasn't just dirty oil gumming up the valve. I then drove 3 hours to Atlanta to get a spare key programmed. Everything was good until about probably an hour+ into the drive I got a 1-5 CEL. That was followed ~30 min later by the 6/10 CEL.

After the appointment (I don't think they cleared anything) I started the car to head home: no codes, but same behavior after about an hour of driving. Pulled the codes when I got home and have one 02 sensor code (P1057) and the Two VVT codes again (P1366 & 1368). Car ran fine the entire time, just for the record.

Another thing I did in the meantime was replace the positive battery terminal. Some previous owner or tech had performed improper rituals such that it would not fully tighten on the post. The only ill effect from that was the TCS needed a few yards to reset itself.
 

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Updating the thread here: Normally I don't just throw parts at a problem, but I found a screaming deal on some new VVT Solenoids/Valves. I replaced both intake-side valves concurrent with an oil change to make sure it wasn't just dirty oil gumming up the valve. I then drove 3 hours to Atlanta to get a spare key programmed. Everything was good until about probably an hour+ into the drive I got a 1-5 CEL. That was followed ~30 min later by the 6/10 CEL.

After the appointment (I don't think they cleared anything) I started the car to head home: no codes, but same behavior after about an hour of driving. Pulled the codes when I got home and have one 02 sensor code (P1057) and the Two VVT codes again (P1366 & 1368). Car ran fine the entire time, just for the record.

Another thing I did in the meantime was replace the positive battery terminal. Some previous owner or tech had performed improper rituals such that it would not fully tighten on the post. The only ill effect from that was the TCS needed a few yards to reset itself.
Why did you drive to get a remote programmed? Mine learn with just holding both buttons for 5 seconds after the key is turned on.

Also did you research Audi failures on this as I suggested?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Why did you drive to get a remote programmed? Mine learn with just holding both buttons for 5 seconds after the key is turned on.

Also did you research Audi failures on this as I suggested?
Whole new key, pointy bit needed to talk to ECU/immobilizer is my understanding. Other threads on this forum suggested it was a dealer-only deal. I let a local key wizard take a crack at it, but it wasn't picking up what he was putting down so took a drive just to be done with it.

I have been digging for Audi information. I'm still pursuing that, although it's a bit like WebMD. It ranges from "oil is dirty, or wrong viscosity" (I just changed it with synthetic 5w-40 for "normal climate" as per manual). To your timing chain is F'd (Audi A4 in particular). With somewhere in between being cam position sensors, faulty ECU, generic "wiring issues", etc.

Nothing has jumped out symptomatically to trigger me to change anything else or go digging with a multimeter. Maybe I can find some way to log the timing assuming I can make the error replicate on demand.
 

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I did a little looking too out of curiosity and I see some Audi owners are going to thicker oil to help eliminate issues. I run 15w50 in mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah, the oil viscosity is an interesting data point and I considered going heavier weight, but didn't considering we're going into winter and I still plan to drive the car some. I'll keep that in mind for the next oil change. I mean, it's plausible that there was some viscosity drop after an hour of highway running that led to shenanigans, but seems unlikely with a modern synthetic. Maybe the old girl just needs the classic "Italian tuneup" and I should sign up for a track day, lol.
 
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