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    1. · Registered
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      Discussion Starter · #4 ·
      I've used it on all my exotics and have never had a problem. In fact, I've always
      had swell results. Maserati, Aston Martin, Ferrari, etc. and even on my "normal"
      cars. With the Maserati, I used a borescope before and after and almost all the
      carbon buildup on the pistons was gone.

      Phenomenal stuff.

      This is the exact stuff I use (they have a few different versions):
      Amazon.com: Seafoam
       
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      Discussion Starter · #1 ·
      After a long wait, I've finally finished editing and uploading the video showing
      the proper oil change process for the LP Gallardo.


      Plot Twist: In a nice bit of foreshadowing, the thumbnail for the video gives
      you a nice glimpse of the DEI Reflect-A-Gold heat "wrap" I've put on the
      air induction system to get rid of heatsoak-- the topic of an upcoming video!

      Anyway: Don't let the seven drain plugs scare you. It's actually a very easy
      oil change – only takes about an hour and a half if you have the right tools.

      Speaking of which:

      Gallardo 5.2L: ~9L Required Per Change.
      -Motor Oil – OEM (VW 504/507 Spec): Castrol Edge Professional LL03
      -Motor Oil – High Performance: Motul 300V 5w-30
      -Oil Filter – OEM: VW/Audi Oil Filter #079198405E
      -Pre-Oil Change Treatment: Seafoam SF-16 Motor Treatment

      Non-Standard Required Tools:
      -LP 5.2L Oil Filter Removal: Tekton 1-1/4" Socket
      -Fluid Draining (All Models): XZN/Triple Square Metric Bit Set

      Let me know if you have any questions!

      PS- I am actually thinner than in the video. The seatbelt makes me look like I
      have a gut. Then again, who cares, I'm in a Lamborghini. :wave:
       
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      Discussion Starter · #13 ·
      LUBRICATION SYSTEM:

      Gallardo 5.2L: ~9L Required Per Change.
      -Motor Oil – OEM (VW 504/507 Spec): Castrol Edge Professional LL03
      -Motor Oil – High Performance: Motul 300V 5w-30
      -Oil Filter – OEM: VW/Audi Oil Filter #079198405E

      Gallardo 5.0L: ~10L Required Per Change.
      -Motor Oil – OEM (VW 502 Spec): Liqui Moly 5w-40
      -Motor Oil – High Performance: Motul 300V 5w-40
      -Motor Oil – Extreme Performance: Royal Purple 20w-50
      -Oil Filter – OEM: Lamborghini Oil Filter #07L115561C

      Huracan 5.2L: ~9L Required Per Change.
      -Motor Oil – OEM (VW 504/507 Spec): Castrol Edge Professional LL03
      -Motor Oil – High Performance: Motul 300V 5w-30
      -Oil Filter – OEM: VW/Audi Oil Filter #079198405E

      Aventador 6.5L: ~12L Required Per Change.
      -Motor Oil – OEM (VW 504/507 Spec): Castrol Edge Professional LL03
      -Motor Oil – High Performance: Motul 300V 5w-30
      -Oil Filter – OEM: Lamborghini Oil Filter #07M115561

      Murcielago 6.2/6.5L: ~12L Required Per Change.
      -Motor Oil – OEM (VW 502 Spec): Liqui Moly 5w-40
      -Motor Oil – High Performance: Motul 300V 5w-40
      -Motor Oil – Extreme Performance: Royal Purple 20w-50
      -Oil Filter – OEM: Lamborghini Oil Filter #07M115561

      Motor Oil (Underground Racing TT):
      -UGR w/ Warranty: Mobil One 15w50
      -UGR w/o Warranty: Motul 300v 15w50

      NOTE: Approximately 100-200 miles before your oil change, pour in appx.
      one ounce of SEAFOAM per quart of engine oil into your oil sump and drive the
      hell our of the car. This will clean the crap off the pistons/rings and, just as
      importantly the valves (especially true on the direct injected LP engine).
      Change your oil like normal after driving ~100-200 miles.

      HOW TO VIDEO COMING SOON.
       
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      Discussion Starter · #7 ·
      FUEL SYSTEM:

      Fuel Filter:
      -Gallardo 5.2L: Mann WK 720/4
      -Gallardo 5.0L: Lamborghini Filter #400201511A
      -Murcielago 6.2/6.5L: Lamborghini Filter #400201511A
      -Huracan 5.2L: Lamborghini Filter #4s0201511

      NOTE: Because of the way the Lamborghini engines work, I suggest that you
      occasionally toss a bottle of Seafoam into the gas tank to clean out lines and
      injectors and keep things running smooth.

      I do it probably once every 1500-2000 miles. I also put Seafoam into the oil
      about 100-200 miles before an oil change to clean up the valves and whatnot
      because the LP is a direct injected engine.

      HOW TO VIDEO COMING SOON.
       
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      Discussion Starter · #18 ·
      USEFUL/REQUIRED TOOLS:

      I assume you have a basic tool kit with sockets, screwdrivers, and whatnot.
      With that in mind, this is a list of more specialized tools that fall in to one of
      two categories: 1) Tools that I highly suggest you have because they make the
      job much easier/safer/efficient, and 2) Tools that might not be part of a
      "standard" tool kit that you will realize halfway through a job that you need.

      Situation #2 is the WORST, as we have likely all experienced not having a
      random weird sized socket or a very unique tool once our car is half taken
      apart.

      "Required" Tools:
      -LP 5.2L Oil Filter Removal: Tekton 1-1/4" Socket
      -Fluid Draining (All Models): XZN/Triple Square Metric Bit Set
      -Spark Plug Socket (All Models) 5/8" Magnetic Swivel Socket
      -Security Fastener Removal Neiko Security Bit Set

      "Useful" Tools:
      -Ignition Coil Removal: VW Tool #T40039
      -Brake Caliper Spreader: Lang Brake Caliper Tool
      -Brake Bleeding: MityVac Brake Bleeder
      -Pre-Oil Change Cleaner: Seafoam SF-16
      -Injector/Fuel System Cleaner: Seafoam SF-16
      -Tire Pressure Gauge: TEKTON Digital Tire Gauge
      -Wheel Stud Pilot Pins: VW/Audi Stud Pilot Pin
      -Tire Inflator: Kensun D1002 Inflator

      NOTE: First off, I should mention that even though one of the lists is titled
      "Useful" and not "Required," I highly suggest you grab those too. They are
      almost required... Just not required to complete your task.

      For example, you don't NEED a caliper spreader tool like I noted, however,
      using a screwdriver or another style of tool might damage your caliper or
      rotor. You don't NEED wheel stud pilot pins, but trying to put your wheels
      back on the hub without them means you are likely going to be whacking the
      wheel into the caliper and rotor, causing damage to all three. You don't NEED
      a brake bleeding kit, but using the kit allows you to evacuate air much more
      effectively, by yourself, instead of having to rely on a person pressing the
      brake pedal up and down.

      Second off, I have listed specific tools for a reason— they are what I use...
      and I use them because they are, often times, the "best" without needing to
      spend a load of money on a brand like SnapOn. For example, the spark plug
      socket is a special design that not only has a swivel to it, but is magnetic (as
      in it doesn't use a rubber gasket to "hold" the plug) and also have a unique
      socket design that never rounds out the edges of the plug. If you've ever had
      a rubber spark plug socket gasket "detach" from the socket while your plug is
      in the block, you know how low-key terrifying it is. Similarly, I use that style
      caliper spreader because it is designed to apply equal pressure on both pads,
      across all pistons at once. These are all "best practices" for the car.

      We are already saving a LOAD of money doing this stuff ourselves. It's
      smartest to invest in the correct tool for the job and not have to worry.
       
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