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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 11-17-2012, 08:52 AM
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Ahhhhh....... thanks, Carol. I never considered that angle

I blame being on holidays right now, and being sunburned, and stupid..... wicked combination......
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2013, 12:24 PM
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Quick question. If there is no power outlet in the garage, am I out of luck with using a battery tender? Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TTBear View Post
I'd pump up the tires to 45-50psi - I 've never actually HAD a problem with flat-spotting, but I do this routinely, as winters here are LOOOONG, and I wouldn't want to find out the hard way.

I also disagree with the idea of starting your car periodically throughout the cold months. The vast, vast majority of wear on an engine occurs when you are cranking it to start. Why would you subject your engine to wear that you don't really need to? The idea of doing it to avoid rubber getting hard is very much passť - you will do more harm than good, here - I frequently hear of doing this to "prevent dry rot" of rubber hoses - this is the 21st century. There is NO empirical evidence to warrant regular starting of your car. The car will never get properly lubricated or burn off the condensation formed during short idle periods that way.

Here's my winter storage regime
-Full tank of gas, add fuel stabilizer - run engine for 10 minutes to disperse stabilizer throughout fuel lines
-Tires inflated to 45-50 psi (I really do think this is unnecessary, however - one year, I forgot to do this with a BMW M3, and had NO problems whatsoever).
-Parking brake OFF
-Full detail prior to storage - wash, claybar, wash, swirl mark removal, wash, Zaino Z2/Z16/Z2/Z18. Treat leather surfaces thoroughly - leather cleaner, followed by Zaino leather conditioner. (Leatherique, if it older leather in need of restoration)
-Treat all rubber seals (windows, trunk, etc) with Aerospace 303 protectant.
-Change oil if it's anywhere near needing it.
-Temperature controlled garage.
-Lower the windows about 1/4", to avoid rubber "memory" (I used to also put small blocks under the windshield wipers, with a similar idea).
-Indoor car cover - but NEVER put any car cover on unless the car is completely dry.
-Battery tender - NOT a trickle charger.
-Shed a tear, and begin dreaming already of next year's driving season

I think that's about it.

Sometimes I REEEEEALLY envy the guys and girls that can drive year-round......
right on, flat spots shouldn't be a problem. Maybe place carpet squares under each tire, I've done that for cars I've stored in the past througha Minnesota winter.

and I agree...do not start it at all, until it comes out of storage and you're going to drive it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TTBear View Post
NO jack stands - the suspension is definitely NOT designed to be in full drop for weeks/months on end! At best, it is needless work (I am assuming you would remove the wheels/tires if you were to put your car up on jack stands) - at worst, it would damage your suspension.

Just pump the tires up to 45-50psi, and park it. I fail to see the logic behind jack stands - to a certain extent - metal springs have a "memory" - why allow your supension to sit in full drop for an extended period of time??

Again, this is very old-school, anachronistic logic.
again, I agree. No Jack stands. The tires will be fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TTBear View Post
Nope - you can certainly leave it connected. This way, you won't lose your radio settings, etc.

Just make sure it's a batter tender and not a "charger", or "trickle charger" - those are death for your battery!
Tender's are the way to go...with or without leaving it connected.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Godzilla75 View Post
Quick question. If there is no power outlet in the garage, am I out of luck with using a battery tender? Thanks in advance!
extension cord...or just pull the battery.
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:38 PM
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One other thing that I thought I will share from my experience.

Without battery tender, if you are going to start the car occasionally throughout the winter months, make sure you take her out for at least a 5-10 minute drive on highway to charge up the battery. If you just turn on the engine and let it run, it actually drains the battery so much that it is likely that your car will need a jump the next time.

I know it may seem obvious but just thought I would share for whatever it is worth.
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:24 PM
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Hi guys.
One question re the start after storage.

If the car hasn't been started for 3 or 4 months the
First time it's started it will go to high idle, do you guys recommend
Dry cranking it first with the ignition circuit disconnected just to put some oil through the system before it fires into life , or not worry about it Just worries about excessive start wear

Thanks
As always
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2013, 09:43 PM
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Winter...what?
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File Type: jpg IMG_20130105_185254.jpg (42.2 KB, 18 views)
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2013, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Godzilla75 View Post
One other thing that I thought I will share from my experience.

Without battery tender, if you are going to start the car occasionally throughout the winter months, make sure you take her out for at least a 5-10 minute drive on highway to charge up the battery. If you just turn on the engine and let it run, it actually drains the battery so much that it is likely that your car will need a jump the next time.

I know it may seem obvious but just thought I would share for whatever it is worth.
???

I don't understand the logic behind this. If you start your car, the alternator runs. If you're just idling the car, the alternator charges the battery still, albeit at a lower rate than if you were running the car at a higher rpm.

I don't think that running your car at idle for a short time alone will "drain" the battery to any great extent, especially "so much that it is likely that your car will need a jump the next time"???
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