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Old 11-06-2012, 07:37 PM
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Default Winter Storage

My car is currently stored in a secured indoor garage (without climate control). My best guess is that the temperature may go down to 20-30F or so in the garage during the coldest month. Assuming it is hooked up with a battery tender and that I start the car and let it run for 10 minutes or so at least once a week. Can anyone tell me if it is really bad to expose the car to such a low temperature?
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Godzilla75 View Post
My car is currently stored in a secured indoor garage (without climate control). My best guess is that the temperature may go down to 20-30F or so in the garage during the coldest month. Assuming it is hooked up with a battery tender and that I start the car and let it run for 10 minutes or so at least once a week. Can anyone tell me if it is really bad to expose the car to such a low temperature?
Yes. These cars should NEVER be exposed to those type of temperatures!!!!

For a while Lamborghini wouldn't even sell cars in Canada because of this rule.

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Old 11-06-2012, 07:55 PM
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Thanks! I have been having second thoughts the last few days about storing her there and that it is probably not a good idea but just can't find any real "reasons" about WHY besides that it is a BAD idea. I am going to err on the side of caution rather than taking any chance.
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:12 PM
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I'd pump up the tires to 45-50psi - I 've never actually HAD a problem with flat-spotting, but I do this routinely, as winters here are LOOOONG, and I wouldn't want to find out the hard way.

I also disagree with the idea of starting your car periodically throughout the cold months. The vast, vast majority of wear on an engine occurs when you are cranking it to start. Why would you subject your engine to wear that you don't really need to? The idea of doing it to avoid rubber getting hard is very much passť - you will do more harm than good, here - I frequently hear of doing this to "prevent dry rot" of rubber hoses - this is the 21st century. There is NO empirical evidence to warrant regular starting of your car. The car will never get properly lubricated or burn off the condensation formed during short idle periods that way.

Here's my winter storage regime
-Full tank of gas, add fuel stabilizer - run engine for 10 minutes to disperse stabilizer throughout fuel lines
-Tires inflated to 45-50 psi (I really do think this is unnecessary, however - one year, I forgot to do this with a BMW M3, and had NO problems whatsoever).
-Parking brake OFF
-Full detail prior to storage - wash, claybar, wash, swirl mark removal, wash, Zaino Z2/Z16/Z2/Z18. Treat leather surfaces thoroughly - leather cleaner, followed by Zaino leather conditioner. (Leatherique, if it older leather in need of restoration)
-Treat all rubber seals (windows, trunk, etc) with Aerospace 303 protectant.
-Change oil if it's anywhere near needing it.
-Temperature controlled garage.
-Lower the windows about 1/4", to avoid rubber "memory" (I used to also put small blocks under the windshield wipers, with a similar idea).
-Indoor car cover - but NEVER put any car cover on unless the car is completely dry.
-Battery tender - NOT a trickle charger.
-Shed a tear, and begin dreaming already of next year's driving season

I think that's about it.

Sometimes I REEEEEALLY envy the guys and girls that can drive year-round......
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:24 PM
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Hey Guys,

Im about to put my G away for winter and am going to fill her up, wash/detail, disconnect the battery, and cover her using an indoor cover. I was also thinking of putting her on jack stands. What do you guys think of that?

Thank you

Kind Regards,
MRajeh
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrajeh View Post
Hey Guys,

Im about to put my G away for winter and am going to fill her up, wash/detail, disconnect the battery, and cover her using an indoor cover. I was also thinking of putting her on jack stands. What do you guys think of that?

Thank you

Kind Regards,
MRajeh
NO jack stands - the suspension is definitely NOT designed to be in full drop for weeks/months on end! At best, it is needless work (I am assuming you would remove the wheels/tires if you were to put your car up on jack stands) - at worst, it would damage your suspension.

Just pump the tires up to 45-50psi, and park it. I fail to see the logic behind jack stands - to a certain extent - metal springs have a "memory" - why allow your supension to sit in full drop for an extended period of time??

Again, this is very old-school, anachronistic logic.
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Last edited by TTBear; 11-07-2012 at 06:08 AM. Reason: I clearly have no ability to proof read as I'm typing :P
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Old 11-06-2012, 08:39 PM
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Hey Guys,

Thank you for the response TTbear! It is much appreciated! Ill just pump up the tires, wash, disconnect the battery, fill her up, cover her, and read her a bed time story :P.

Thank you

Kind Regards,
MRajeh
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Old 11-06-2012, 10:01 PM
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Ya, take it from us Canadians, we have plenty of experience letting cars sit for long winter hibernations. Lol

TTBear is 100% right. Don't bother starting it at all during the winter. The extra wear is for nothing. I've never had any problems with flat spotting either, but better safe than sorry.

One thing I may add, is that if you have access to your car, try to jounce the corners one at a time to try and get the shocks to move a little.

I've never had a shock go out off-roading, on the racetrack, or driving normally. But I have had shocks on my cars sh!t the bed over the winter, as well as fork seals leak on my motorcycles sitting over winter......
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:57 AM
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Is it necessary to disconnect the battery if we have a batter tender?
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Old 11-07-2012, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToofDoc View Post
Is it necessary to disconnect the battery if we have a batter tender?
Nope - you can certainly leave it connected. This way, you won't lose your radio settings, etc.

Just make sure it's a batter tender and not a "charger", or "trickle charger" - those are death for your battery!
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