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Old 10-28-2012, 04:20 AM
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Default QV Coolant leak

A couple of hours after taking the QV out for an afternoon of cruising we found a substantial sized puddle of coolant under the engine are in our garage. The water pump was rebuilt not that long ago so we suspected it failed but upon inspection we can't seem to find any trace of coolant leaks. Our next step will be to examine the car with the engine running on a hoist to see if we can find the leak.

Can anyone advise me as to where we should be looking?

The oil cooler does not appear to be working since it our oil temp is rising to about 10 o'clock on the dial when normally it stays at 9. It seems like this problem has been there since we had the engine rebuilt a couple of years back any ideas what could cause the oil cooler to not function?

Cheers, Stang
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Old 10-28-2012, 03:51 PM
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May be simple for the coolant on the floor.....overfilled resivior??? and it just puked out??? If you have had a high oil temp issue since the engine has been rebuilt, it may be that the secondary oil pump to camshaft coupler was not properly installed.
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:47 AM
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I am in the process of doing a complete revision of my cooling system on my 1988 QV. I discovered two small pools of coolant (one under each radiator) after a high rpm run.It turned out that BOTH radiators had a very small crack on one of the solder seams. This appears to have been caused by excess vibration due to the rubber radiator mounts having deteriorated over 24 years. Upon complete disassembly of the hoses and pipes I discovered almost EVERY clamp was loose and seeping small amounts of coolant. There are upwards of 20 clamps on at least ten hoses so you have your work cut out for you! You MUST check them ALL. The small hose coming off the side of the expansion tank is really tough if you have to fix it. I suggest buying a boroscope or at least an inspection mirror to take a look in the tight spots.. FYI my radiator leaks only appeared when they were pressurized to somewhere near 20 psi. They did not appear at idle. My good fortune, the water pump had recently been rebuilt by George Evans in Ohio so it did not have to be redone this time.
RE the oil cooler I removed mine and had it completely flushed out. I agree with Blown Daytona. Be sure you are actually getting proper flow through the cooler. It could be the pump AND/OR debris in the cooler fins or an obstruction in the hoses or the cooler itself. Here again. YOU MUST CHECK THEM ALL! Be sure that there is NO oil in coolant OR coolant in the oil. The water pump seals have been known to fail and leak INTO the block.
I am going to do a complete thread on my revision when I complete it. I hope this helps.
Minotaur

Last edited by Minotaur; 10-29-2012 at 06:53 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:26 AM
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As Minotaur says, using a cooling system pressurizing tool is the best technique for this diagnosis. You can control the conditions better and generate the necessary pressure without revving the hell out of the engine.

How is oil pressure reacting the the oil temperature you're seeing?
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:29 PM
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Thank you for your input friends. We are going to take the car out for a drive tomorrow to get her warmed up before performing a more serious inspection. We suspect it may be the banjo bolt on one of the lines going to the water pump that might be leaking.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:56 PM
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I had the banjo bolt leak on the one inch cloth jacketed hose near the water pump (I think it feeds the heater) on my QV. They use copper washers on most of those banjo bolt connections. Sometimes, a lazy mechanic will re-use one of those washers. NOT A GOOD IDEA. Josh Hill at ECS fixed mine. If that is all is it then it should be relatively easy to fix. $2 part PLUS labor!
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minotaur View Post
I had the banjo bolt leak on the one inch cloth jacketed hose near the water pump (I think it feeds the heater) on my QV. They use copper washers on most of those banjo bolt connections. Sometimes, a lazy mechanic will re-use one of those washers. NOT A GOOD IDEA. Josh Hill at ECS fixed mine. If that is all is it then it should be relatively easy to fix. $2 part PLUS labor!
Minotaur
Minotaur, Actually you can use a copper washer over and over again, IF you know how to anneal it. ANY GOOD mechanic will know how to do that.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:51 PM
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That is the operative word. Any GOOD mechanic! I always rely on you for the
solution. Chad, thanks again for your excellent advice.
Minotaur
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:48 PM
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Depends how many times it's been used and what condition it's in. Sometimes the washers are over tightened and reuse so many times they mushroom and tear and the surfaces become scarred.

Sometimes new sealing washer need to annealed if the copper alloy isn't soft enough to give when tightened down.

Knowing when and when not to is the most important factor.

As Minotaur said, sounds like you may have a leak at the same point. I like to pull the distributor cap and a couple other things out of the way to good proper access. Be sure to check your hose clamps and a other sealing surfaces while you're in there.
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Old 11-22-2012, 04:45 PM
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As soon as we started the engine coolant started leaking under the engine and it seems to be coming from the oil pump? The water pump looks dry and we can't see it leaking anywhere. Could this be a possible head gasket issue? We could not detect any coolant in the oil so we are at a loss as to where the coolant is coming from.
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