...... Uh Oh!

I have about 3 weeks to wait for the TO bearing, so I am digging into the CV Joints.

I thought taking the outer joint apart required pulling the hub, as it seemed like it was bolted from the back as well as the front. Turn out not, but now that i have the joint apart I cant break the joint.

I am fairly certain the joint breaks apart where indicated in the blue arrow, but i cant get the sucker to budge. Right now its soaking in PB Blaster.

Any ideas? I am right in thinking the joint splits apart in the same location as the inner joint?

Its really stuck on there with old school Lamborghini glue!

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Never mind, I got it apart.

I used a box cutter blade, and tapped it into the crevise with a hammer in circles until it came loose.

I forgot what a mess doing CV joints are.

<ps, careful when you take it apart there is a (reusable) gasket in there...>

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the left and right half-shaft CV boots are different (surprise surprise)

The left side are standard boot/clamp/flange setup, while the right side uses a boot/flange that is integral. I think the left hand side is OEM as the boots are labeled Lobro, while the right side is labeled VW/AUDI (no part number).

I am going to have to take apart the VW/Audi boot/flange and flare the ends, or find new flanges.....

any thoughts are to which is the OEM setup? Parts manual suggests the left side.

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Based on the photo/part number I have attached, the lobro is the original boot, it was about 5 years ago I did mine but from memory George evans supplied me with all the boots, straps for securing the boots and the grease.
Mike

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__________________
Espada S2 7782
Jalpa ELA12175

Boy, if I had it to do over again, I would just buy these boots integral with the flange, much cleaner way to get the boots on.

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For future reference

Lobro CV Boot Kit with integral Flange: Part # 923 332 037 00, about $15 each

Or,

GKN CV Boot (without flange): Part # 901 332 293 12 M60, about $5 each from Pelican Parts

Both the above parts are from a 911/912 (1969-mid 75), 911 Turbo (1975-84)

CV Joints just about done...shame they have to get all dirty.

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While I wait for the TO bearing to arrive, I am going to tackle the silent blocks.

No way I paying $1000 for a set.

I bought a few different bushings from Energy Suspension, and found one that "needs the least modifying"

Its part number 9.9485G

A bit too long, and bit large in diameter, so its going to take cutting/sanding/machining (can you machine poly?)

If anyone wants a set let me know.

Geno

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Front and rear crank seals were certainly leaking and came out today

both seals were very brittle and worn, the front seal actual had silicon smeared on the outside (like toilet caulking)??

The pilot bearing sounds like sand in it, very rough

The front seal is in, looking for the right diameter tube/tool to tap in the rear.

note: in the picture of the front seal where you can see someone smart (not the guy with the toilet caulk) scribed timing marks on the case and the balancer so you can time the engine with simply the rear wheel off, and no using the hard to get to timing window.

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