One small note I would like to add. When you put the key in the ignition, you do not turn it to "On" position as I mentioned, but to a small arrow that is stamped on the face plate part way to "On". My key ends up about parallel to the ground. If you press in any other position, the plate depresses, but not enough to let the cylinder come out. It will move about 1/2 inch out and then catch. It is a hard mechanical catch. If you are having trouble finding the arrow, or correct position, press on the release plate and slowly turn the key. About half way to on, it should dip in another small amount and be free to come out.

I had quite a bit of play in my wires. As you can see from those old pictures, I was able to pull the ignition switch cylinder all the way out and turn it to get a picture of the back.

I wish I had better advice, but it sounds like my car might be a little different.

*My car was doing what you describe. Took several tries to get it to start and then as I was driving, it would suddenly go dead and not want to start again.

*Lamborghini says these are no longer available, but it looks like AHM has them. Evans Auto has them as well.

*The Fiat Spider supposedly uses the same set up. I bought one and it was not the right fit and was missing the "door open key in" alarm wiring. The cylinder was about 2mm too small. I guess the last year or two of the Fiat Spider has the same wires, but I am not sure about diameter. I mention this because the Fiat ones are really cheap and look the same.

By the way, I don't want to hear about it......

For what it's worth.....

Last summer the ignition switch on my Silhouette was giving trouble. My local auto electrician discovered that my ignition switch was in fact OK – it was degradation of the fuse box connections that was the problem. This particular fuse provides power to three other fused circuits (verbal expletive deleted) which resulted in the comprehensive failure I experienced!

In fact I had already visually checked all the fuses and turned them around to try and improve the connections…..

I am informed that the old style ceramic fuses are much better at preventing overheating than the newer plastic variety.

I plan to have some wiring modifications made so that the load is taken off this fuse. At the same time I will get a relay fitted for the window lifts so that the current doesn’t all run through the switches a/ to improve the speed and b/ to save the wear/heat on the switches.

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P300V8
Silhouette #40006 first production car, Urraco P300 #20200 sold in September 2009.

Thanks guys for the suggestions..I have been out of town for a funeral but will be back at it this weekend and will let you know what I find..

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Lynn
1986 Jalpa #GLA12276
2004 Maserati Spyder GT
2011 Lotus Evora
2008 Mazda Miata PRHT
2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee

After playing contortionist and wedging myself in the footwell,here is the latest..it is official!! the nice wiring loom/wrap simply does not have enough free play to pull the ignition switch assembly free..ohlgren, i verified that the catch was released and the key in the position you noted...when that failed to get me more than about an inch of movement,into the footwell i went...one tip,if you remove the screws that hold the lower dash fascia panel in place,you can peer in behind the switch area..in my case (unlike the OP)i did not have any simple tie wraps to cut..it looks like factory quality wire wrapping...the loom disappears up into the upper dash area and out of view...could not get any additional free play...since i was defeated ,i decided to button everything back up in preparation for a trip to my mechanic..looks like the dash may have to come out,at least partially, which is way over my capabilities...to finish the day on a good note,i addressed the relay issues where the wires fall out of the back of the relay panel...seemed simple...this went great;so great that shortly afterward i decided to start the car(i don't know why i had this thought since it had been dead for weeks) and IT CRANKED RIGHT UP!! repeatedly!! now i can't get the ignition to fail...even drove it around the block which was nice..first time in 2 months..SO, this begs a question that P300V8 posted..do any relays on a jalpa control the ignition switch function or was this just a coincidence that the car started after i fiddled with the relay panel?? keep in mind the ignition switch failures are sometimes sporadic and not total failures..mine could just be having a "good" moment right now only to leave me stranded next time..any thoughts on the relay question? obviously if the relays do not have anything to do with the ignition then i will still have the switch replaced...thanks guys for any insights!

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Lynn
1986 Jalpa #GLA12276
2004 Maserati Spyder GT
2011 Lotus Evora
2008 Mazda Miata PRHT
2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee

My advice would be to let a qualified auto electrician inspect the switch and the fuse/relay box. This will replace speculation with fact and logic!

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P300V8
Silhouette #40006 first production car, Urraco P300 #20200 sold in September 2009.

P300V8...such a party pooper, you would have me spoil my character building i have been enjoying in my garage..you know,sweating,hanging upside down for long periods,bending your back in a reverse U...another words FUN!!! Take it to a mechanic?? I say pish-posh!!
Seriously though, thanks for the relay tip..i will be back shortly with an update..

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Lynn
1986 Jalpa #GLA12276
2004 Maserati Spyder GT
2011 Lotus Evora
2008 Mazda Miata PRHT
2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Just a future FYI for those wading into the ignition switch jungle..AMH can get these switches easily and had a wonderful experience with them...good communications,price and fast delivery...
Second, I removed the relays to see if I could kill the engine(basically testing the relays interaction with the ignition switch function) and found zero connection..relays do NOT seem to have function with the switch..
Off to the shop it goes next week to have the switch replaced...will keep you posted in a few weeks...

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Lynn
1986 Jalpa #GLA12276
2004 Maserati Spyder GT
2011 Lotus Evora
2008 Mazda Miata PRHT
2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Lynn,
I remember haveing lots of electrical issues with my Jalpa, none of them seemed to be ignition related though, from memory all of my elictrical issues have been to bad earths, they seemed to daisy chain the earths down to a metal tech spcrew which kept coming loose and the issues would return, I replaced the tech screw with a nyloc nut and metal screw and haven't had issues since, there is a image on Raymonds Jalpa site on the common problems page that has some of the relay functions listed out.
The two wiring diagrams on Raymonds Jalpa site are alos very useful for diagnosing and tracing electrical issues, from memory I think Jalpa_Mike has a high res copy available.

Best of luck

Mike

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Espada S2 7782
Jalpa ELA12175

True - but at least my car works - for the moment anyway...!

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P300V8
Silhouette #40006 first production car, Urraco P300 #20200 sold in September 2009.